bud-weis

none really...just extra noise / vibration.....which would be classed as a disadvantage i guess lol, but on a track car it's no probs

wildheart

iTrader: (4)

Doubt i would notice any extra noise over the sound of my engine at the moment

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

Marco told me that when he solid mounted his beam (front and rear mounts), he had to periodically tighten the diff bolts that had a tendency to vibrate loose.

THEYGOTMETOO

I agree with that! Personally, if i were looking to spend any considerable amount of money, I wouldn't waste any of it on any semi-trailing arm setup ... quite possibly one of the most horrid independent suspension set-ups I can possibly imagine.

Without a doubt I would be looking at a WRC style cradle, lateral links, etc. etc.

Bullett

iTrader: (2)

i know brom/ahmed have been doing them for years but you have to remember danny has been in the racing scene for manys years before going on his own.
he does know a fair but about doing a good chassis.

CharlieSaff

Exactly, and look all those years ago when he had his Saff, it was only stage1 but all his adjustable suspension etc, the times he was getting for a stg1 were unreal

Bullett

iTrader: (2)

thats my point.i know he was with hauser ad they were mainly drag racing but they have to know about allsorts of chasss mods to know what works and where.

Versus_Creations

iTrader: (1)

So whats the outcome then as we still have mixed ways of thinking?

markk

iTrader: (2)

if you want good rear geometry fit lateral links as per WRC, if you want second best stick with trailing arms

bbspolo

who make the wrc cradle type setups then ! i know brom has it on his 3 door but never seen any others!
saying that though there must be some1 as there r quite a few group a and n cars that have been upgraded 2 this spec so some1 out there must be doing it???

bbspolo

another thing just taken a look at dannys stage 3 beams and they do look the dogs!!! but like some one has allready mentioned it rearly is just making the best of a bad design!! if i were spending nearly £1500 quid like dannys stage 3 is i would want the best of the best not the best of the worst if u know what i mean !

JamesH

iTrader: (21)

Well the Ahmed ones look VERY similar to Danny's stage1, and I've not seen a pic of Broms

bud-weis

Brom's comes with adjustable camber/toe on all versions, which i think Ahmeds do too.

I personally can't see any difference between Brom's or Ahmeds tbh....other than price.

I'm sure for the right money Brom could do a similar setup to what his 3dr has, but i suspect it won't be cheap!!

Kelv

iTrader: (4)

it depends on what your budget is i guess.

the Ahmed Beam, as on Yum only has one adjustment point on the inner pickup point of the arm - again it would depend if thats going to be suitable and enough for your car, and again on what you intend on using the car for.

other beam options have both the inner and outer pickup points with adjustment, it would depend if you need this level of adjustment - this is the option ive gone for on my car!!!

other options are with the arms being strapped, or even as mentioned above - the Danny B beam setup with tubular arms etc.

all budget orientated

bud-weis

I didn't realise Ahmed's beam wasn't toe adjustable

the strapped beam that Brom does is £650...for that you get a very very strong beam, suitable for track too...with adjustable toe and camber, which basically means you can play around with the settings til you get the car handling how you want it...

for the money it's easily the best mod you can do...mine felt like it handled more like a small hatch tbh...the rear end was so precise and sharp

andrewg

mine is similar to wrc on my focus see pics- www.andrewgallacher.com

Tony Ryan

These are only copies of what the touring cars used in the eighties with the extended inner points !

Versus_Creations

iTrader: (1)

People keep saying Ahmed, but does he make the beam himself or do any part of the welding etc? Or is it like the Kent CVH34 camshaft that he has put his name to. Who makes it for him? Can we go direct to the supplier and miss out the middle man making X amount of money.

I would rather have a beam that was made for race use to start with and not a std beem that has been modded to make the best out of a bad desing.

As far as i know the GrpA setup can be adjusted in everyway with angles etc.. It is also very light due to it being mag. It may be fragile but if you find a good one to start with that has not decade or worn etc, it should be as strong as it was to start with designed for a Rally car.

Has anyone got pics of the GrpA setup on a car? Has anyone driven both types of setup to give decent advise.

Any other views?

JamesH

iTrader: (21)

Well if they were all vastly different then they wouldn't all be good would they

As Tony Ryan says too

bud-weis

there has been loads of discussion on this subject in the past....have a good read of this thread, there's good pics of Brom's custom setup on his car on page 3

https://passionford.com/forum/viewto...er=asc&start=0

RS500/364

It is done by mark at grove and he wont cut ahmed out end of if you want it cheap photo and make urself

NEIL A

iTrader: (6)

Just noticed this on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/cosworth-grp-a...QQcmdZViewItem

Versus_Creations

iTrader: (1)

I didnt know it was done by mark? Might give him a call and see what he says.

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

that it 100% true

my back end has no rubbers on it what so ever the rear suspension rose jointed /reinforced traling arms rose jointed /beam is reinforced with diff gaurd mount / beam is solid mounted (early clubmans grp a beam arms)

you will only notice vibration/noise when you have an uprated diff mount

you wont notice anything with the standard diff mount trust me been there


I have to drill the diffs bolts and lock wire them to the beam to stop them from vibrating out

i have lock tightend the rear beam bolts to the body as they will come loose too

you cannot use "lock tight "on the diff as you will shread the treads inside the diff

would i go back to standard arms/beams and rubbers ? never in a million yrs

I let Richy b9kos drive the cossy on the road (with the tarmac rears on) he was amazed how well the car drove and behaved on the road concidering it has no rubbers , noise /vibration is not an issue if you use the rights bit


if you have got a track car then go for all the uprated stuff thats the best way but using racing stuff on the road , you have to compermise some where

i do like my creature comforts as my 3dr is really my road car and spends most time on the road then on track

personaly if your not botherd about noise/vibration fit the best of everything you can afford

marco

ian sibbert

We ran sierra and escorts like this for many years. The outer solid mount bush bolts were changed from the standard capitve nut and long centre bolt, to a sleeve through into the car and a long bolt and nyloc nut to alleviate it coming loose.

The beam being adequately fastnened to the shell is the most imperitive aspect of preventing rear steer...with worn standard rubbers ive seen the whole axle move 10 - 20mm pivoting around the rear diff mount...lol

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

Hi ian

thats abit of good info about the nyloc /long bolt why couldn't i have thought of that

what else could i do with standard diff mount ? i dont want use the uprated one because of the noise/vibration

marco

ian sibbert

Hi Marco....

I dont think you could effectively over come that problem pal...

As you know the later rally and race cars ran rear diff cover with the mount cast solid into it, this mounted the rear of the diff straight to the shell....


The aluminium mounts with the poly bushes look ok for road/track use, but I couldn't recommend it as ive never used one....



We used numerous methods, but for competition you cant beat having it it secrued directly to the shell.....

Ian

lamb chops

Oh I like that, just up the road from me too

Versus_Creations

iTrader: (1)

marco polo

Thats great info thanks for your input


ian sibbert

Where and how much is the diff mount pictured? I see them on Ebay is there anyone direct?




Will the GrpA setup require a Hydrolic handbrake?

Also what brakes will it need? AFAIK the hubs require AP setup 315-330mm?

Has anyone got the full setup working that they can show pics or a link to please.


Thanks once again. Been loads of help.

Regards

foreigneRS

Danny B

My beams(adrenaline), Broms and Ahmeds basically do the same, Its really down to budget and quality required for which one anybody chooses, I done my versions as customers that came for shell prep and cage work didn't want what else was on offer and asked me to do one. I really didn't think there was room for another person doing them but I was wrong as theres alot of Adrenaline beams out there now

With regars Lateral link set ups, they are far better than trailing arms but its not a cost effective option for the everyday cossy owner that enjoys fast road and track once or twice a year, we can produce and have done on other models of cars but its strictly one off products.

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

VC,
I sell the diff mounts - see my website under transmissions.

Regarding the beams, the reason why Brom's seem so cheap, is that he uses much cheaper rose joints. WHen you spec his beam up to the same quality as Ahmed's, then it is only £150 cheaper. However, Brom's beam is much more difficult to set up, due to the fact that the adjustment is on two different Axis, where Ahmeds is both on the inner joint, so makes it less time consuming.

However, the Brom one (according to Ahmed), is the best of the copies he has seen (to date) and if you have the strapped version and uprated motorsport joints, is fantastic value for money. The welding isn't quite as good as the Ahmed / Adrenaline ones, but it offers a significant saving. At the end of the day, you pay your money and make your choice. I have had both the Ahmed and Zoo ones on my cars and they both work / worked perfectly.

I have also seen Danny's fabrication skills, and so providing he has done his homework, I don't see there being any problem with his either. The only thing I didn't like about Richie's Adrenaline tubular beam was the fact that the outer arm fouled on the bodywork and required a significant amount of material removed to prevent this from bottom out. Richie's was already rust around this area of modification....