Boost controllers
#1
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Boost controllers
I need one...as i am pissed of re-jetting the amal...can only get 1.6bar top..no spike Fook me does it shift though 2nd gear just lights the Yoko's up in the dry all the way to the redline ...and it can be held at 34psi with the correct fuelling ...but i digress...what else EXCEPT air to air (dont want em) can i use..i have NO surge issues...i used to use the Jullian Godfrey controller very good indeed but expensive as i sold it all now.Is there a cheapish jap one which i can control the boost curve in each gear????...(SECS i dont care that the S8 does that )...how about a bleed valve i know Karl uses them dont he?
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#12
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he would have to setup a trade account to buy from radio spares
So how do you make your own boost controller from these bits then ???
#13
Testing the future
or use a 'jap' style boost controller with it's own valve, or escort cosworth 'amal' valve. plenty of posts on them in the past few months.
the electronic boost controllers do pretty much the same as what gareth is suggesting using simple pnuematic valves and tend to give a harder boost hit due to reducing wastegate creep, but have the advantage that you can adjust the setting more easily and in the car. they can also give variable boost setting dependant on gear selection, but you need a speed sensor for the controller to work out which gear you're in from the revs/speed. your shonky taxi doesn't have one, except for using the abs, which i believe is beyond your diy tuner capabilities
the electronic boost controllers do pretty much the same as what gareth is suggesting using simple pnuematic valves and tend to give a harder boost hit due to reducing wastegate creep, but have the advantage that you can adjust the setting more easily and in the car. they can also give variable boost setting dependant on gear selection, but you need a speed sensor for the controller to work out which gear you're in from the revs/speed. your shonky taxi doesn't have one, except for using the abs, which i believe is beyond your diy tuner capabilities
#14
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ive made a boost controller as per this site... with ajustable peak and lag ajustments... all bits from rs components... http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0670
#15
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XRTypeRS, well i never knew that, i only thought it was for trade,,,i never order from them anyway ,,,i get my company to pay
as for making a boost controller,, what you do is pipe a pressure regulator in the line with the top pipe (spring side) of a dual part actuator! pipe the other side just too the compressor,, what you are doing is altering the preload of the wastegate
as for making a boost controller,, what you do is pipe a pressure regulator in the line with the top pipe (spring side) of a dual part actuator! pipe the other side just too the compressor,, what you are doing is altering the preload of the wastegate
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Mark......in the middle i got a WD40 red pipe??That size anyway..tiny....in the R port i got a slight restriction...tried both using WD40 tube and got 1 bar..LOL...now fed up.
What i want is a massive spike but hold 1.6bar???
What i want is a massive spike but hold 1.6bar???
#20
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
ive made a boost controller as per this site... with ajustable peak and lag ajustments... all bits from rs components... http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0670
as for making a boost controller,, what you do is pipe a pressure regulator in the line with the top pipe (spring side) of a dual part actuator! pipe the other side just too the compressor,, what you are doing is altering the preload of the wastegate
So are 2 port actuators something that you can buy?, could you just weld another port on a normal one on the rod side??? (might leak a bit! )
What if you just replaced the amal with one of these, i.e. no air would flow until the preset pressure and then flow would increase with pressure?, surely this would bring the boost up quicker than a conventional bleed or amal which will bleed off a proportional amount of air air at all pressures?.
#22
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Phil put a 1mm to 1.2mm in the c maked pipe and either 3mm or just pull the restrictor pipe out the r maked one,
On the 1mm one buy a brass bar either 6mm or 8mm depending on what size the pipe you are using from turbo make sure this is a tight fit, A model shop should have this in and then buy a 1mm and 1.2mm drill peice and a 3mm drill,
Then adjust boost on actuator arm min preload half a hole of pressure to max 1 hole this will give you your boost you are craving .
Mark
On the 1mm one buy a brass bar either 6mm or 8mm depending on what size the pipe you are using from turbo make sure this is a tight fit, A model shop should have this in and then buy a 1mm and 1.2mm drill peice and a 3mm drill,
Then adjust boost on actuator arm min preload half a hole of pressure to max 1 hole this will give you your boost you are craving .
Mark
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the 2 quotes are refering to the same thing, basically putting a pressure regulating valve in line from the compressor to th wastegate.
the site i quoted has now chamged the article into a pay only bit, ive noticed, it went into detail a few weeks ago on building it, and setting it up with a check valve, and pressure relief valve fo rthe anti creep.
the site i quoted has now chamged the article into a pay only bit, ive noticed, it went into detail a few weeks ago on building it, and setting it up with a check valve, and pressure relief valve fo rthe anti creep.
#25
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Phil Should only cost £4 max and you can do about 50 cars with the bar , Every car I set the boost is done like just diff size holes for diff boost levels.remember the restrictor needs to be tight so not to leak air round the sides.
Mark
Mark
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mhh, thats interesting....
that regulator in the dash is the same as mine
but never seen a actuator with ports on the top and bottom of the diaphram - what is the story there - is there no spring inside ??
that regulator in the dash is the same as mine
but never seen a actuator with ports on the top and bottom of the diaphram - what is the story there - is there no spring inside ??
#28
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
the 2 quotes are refering to the same thing, basically putting a pressure regulating valve in line from the compressor to th wastegate.
the site i quoted has now chamged the article into a pay only bit, ive noticed, it went into detail a few weeks ago on building it, and setting it up with a check valve, and pressure relief valve fo rthe anti creep.
the site i quoted has now chamged the article into a pay only bit, ive noticed, it went into detail a few weeks ago on building it, and setting it up with a check valve, and pressure relief valve fo rthe anti creep.
#32
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yeh, the frst valve is an ajustable pressure relief valve the input to this comes from the compressor nipple, (to set the anti creep) and the output of this goes to the input of the pressure regulating valve. the output of this goes to the wastegate.
paralleled across the whole setup is a non retue valve (light pressure - norgren do one) to allow the wategate to close quickly one the boost has gone to allow quicker spool up .
paralleled across the whole setup is a non retue valve (light pressure - norgren do one) to allow the wategate to close quickly one the boost has gone to allow quicker spool up .
#34
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mine ran a bleed valve for ages no worries, only switched to amal to reduce boost by mapping at high rpm
37psi peak, 32 held to 6500 tailing to 28 at limiter (7500)
thats almost a full hole on a -34 and an amal with no jet at all LOL
37psi peak, 32 held to 6500 tailing to 28 at limiter (7500)
thats almost a full hole on a -34 and an amal with no jet at all LOL
#35
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
yeh, the frst valve is an ajustable pressure relief valve the input to this comes from the compressor nipple, (to set the anti creep) and the output of this goes to the input of the pressure regulating valve. the output of this goes to the wastegate.
paralleled across the whole setup is a non retue valve (light pressure - norgren do one) to allow the wategate to close quickly one the boost has gone to allow quicker spool up .
paralleled across the whole setup is a non retue valve (light pressure - norgren do one) to allow the wategate to close quickly one the boost has gone to allow quicker spool up .
#37
Testing the future
i would be very interested in those part numbers as well dave.
i've read the same article as you, and maybe even saved it somewhere or printed it out. i'd like to have a go at making one, but couldn't find the right parts in my rs catalogue over here (which is much smaller than the uk one )
i've read the same article as you, and maybe even saved it somewhere or printed it out. i'd like to have a go at making one, but couldn't find the right parts in my rs catalogue over here (which is much smaller than the uk one )
#38
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there are all the rs part numbers and prices:
1 x 389-9114 - £18.35 - G1/4 Norgren pressure relief valve.
1 x 122-655 - £16.20 - G1/4 Norgren pressure regulator.
1 x 384-7666 - £16.78 - G1/4 Norgren inline non return valve.
(above all necessary)
(below - you can either use these or beg, steal or borrow other suitable bits - as rs can be expensive for consumables)
2 x 123-923 - £2.53 each - mouting bracket.
5 x 299-4109 - £0.94 each - elbow.
5 x 299-4058 - £0.51 each - stud.
1 x 386-6207 - £20.96 - 30M roll of 6mm tube.
10 x 419-8123 - £0.44 - push in equal T.
5 x 210-0679 - £2.88 each - straight stem adaptor.
5 x 830-659 - £1.25 each - straight male adaptor.
drawing to follow
1 x 389-9114 - £18.35 - G1/4 Norgren pressure relief valve.
1 x 122-655 - £16.20 - G1/4 Norgren pressure regulator.
1 x 384-7666 - £16.78 - G1/4 Norgren inline non return valve.
(above all necessary)
(below - you can either use these or beg, steal or borrow other suitable bits - as rs can be expensive for consumables)
2 x 123-923 - £2.53 each - mouting bracket.
5 x 299-4109 - £0.94 each - elbow.
5 x 299-4058 - £0.51 each - stud.
1 x 386-6207 - £20.96 - 30M roll of 6mm tube.
10 x 419-8123 - £0.44 - push in equal T.
5 x 210-0679 - £2.88 each - straight stem adaptor.
5 x 830-659 - £1.25 each - straight male adaptor.
drawing to follow