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what do i need for 500bhp

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Old 02-07-2007, 04:04 PM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
One of the Scandanavian's did the mod and regularly posts up the pictures of it, but I can't remember who .
Best hope he reads this then

I need to mod the elbow for it to fit in the rush chassis so I might as well try and make it better.

Can I get rid of the web from the middle ?

Cheers,

WD
Old 02-07-2007, 04:09 PM
  #162  
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Put a post up about inlet manifolds and he will soon appear .
Old 02-07-2007, 04:11 PM
  #163  
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if the only problem with std bolts is head lift over time due to bolt stretch, surely it's better to use them and replace gaskets periodically than have a stonger clamp that damages the block?
Old 02-07-2007, 04:20 PM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by foreigneRS
if the only problem with std bolts is head lift over time due to bolt stretch, surely it's better to use them and replace gaskets periodically than have a stonger clamp that damages the block?
I agree, hence why I wouldn't touch ARP bolts with yours .
Old 02-07-2007, 04:31 PM
  #165  
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Q: What do you need for 500BHP




A: A lot of money


Luciano
Old 02-07-2007, 04:50 PM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by JonnyBravo
Originally Posted by Alps Pacino
I might consider long studding the block tbh but this whole thread is a massive contradiction, fuck me there is a 750bhp mk2 escort running stud and nut kit but mine will 100% crack at 500bhp?????????????

Its all a personal opinion norris will map on l6 but no one else will, 200 block is better to 1 man and 205 is better to the next man. End of the day you hear so many storys about so many different things its best to just go with what you think and get on with it and if it breaks it breaks tuff shit imo.
Firstly you cannot guarantee that the 750hp mk2 has conventional arp stud and nut, we also don't know for sure if the block has been altered in any other way at all, the same goes with anyone elses engines, what the owner tells you isn't always exactly how it is unless they built it from scratch themselves.

ARP Stud and Nuts are shit end of, no idea how the people that use them get away with it tbh, standard bolts are miles better, long studding is the correct way to being doing things IMO, you don't hear of many proper Mountune engines failing like people mention do you ?

I think half the problem is that as good as some tuners are I don't personally believe they or whoever they use for machining are doing the job correctly if we are seeing such bad failures.

I wouldn't mind having a word with anyone that worked for the Ford wrc team when they were running the Escort as I very much doubt many of those engines were busting 200 blocks that often

If i was building a 500hp engine I wouldn't be starting with a shonky old 205 block and some micky mouse headbolts, 500bhp is not cheap and cant be done cheaply either so be prepared to open your wallet.

Personally I would get on the phone to a few companies who can long stud blocks and listen to what they have to say about it and blocks failing rather than a bunch of guys off a forum who 50% of cant guarantee you anything.
Ehm if i may say so then i KNOW it is std arp bolts, NOT the long ones, just leav it with that
Old 02-07-2007, 05:27 PM
  #167  
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glad mike mentioned C/R................and the reason "people" wont map "dickos" car is because it's an "uncertain engine"............little bit of this n that....................this is why Ahmed said NO..........if it went bang.....who would u blaime........................... .....
Old 02-07-2007, 05:30 PM
  #168  
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Mark Shead originally mapped my engine but didnt build it.

He did need to know EXACTLY the spec of head, cams and comp ratio tho.

What does Dicko NOT know about his engine?
Old 02-07-2007, 05:31 PM
  #169  
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intresting read this topic
Old 02-07-2007, 05:46 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by rapidcossie
Mark Shead originally mapped my engine but didnt build it.

He did need to know EXACTLY the spec of head, cams and comp ratio tho.

What does Dicko NOT know about his engine?
.....ask him fella....????..but mine was enginered by "my tuner"....as to what i wanted...........todays fuels are getting better but i'd be very happy with 480-500 on 7.5:1.................
Old 02-07-2007, 06:32 PM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by pete mcrash
glad mike mentioned C/R................and the reason "people" wont map "dickos" car is because it's an "uncertain engine"............little bit of this n that....................this is why Ahmed said NO..........if it went bang.....who would u blaime........................... .....
pete how is it a little bit of this and that? im glad people who didnt even build the engine know this cause i dont
Old 02-07-2007, 06:51 PM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by Dicko&Sarah
Originally Posted by pete mcrash
glad mike mentioned C/R................and the reason "people" wont map "dickos" car is because it's an "uncertain engine"............little bit of this n that....................this is why Ahmed said NO..........if it went bang.....who would u blaime........................... .....
pete how is it a little bit of this and that? im glad people who didnt even build the engine know this cause i dont
.........but u dont know...do u.???........u dont know what C/R it is........u dont know what spec ur head is........this rebuild has cost u money..........would be nice to get it right...............
Old 02-07-2007, 09:26 PM
  #173  
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seems to me no one actually KNOWS what causes blocks to crack around the bolt holes,i know its easier said than done but if someone was to do some research into this issue we would be a step closer to solving it with out having to long stud the block.
i cant confess to know everything and i dont know the full reason/advantage of using long studs but cracking blocks could be the reason mountune developed the long stud in the first place.in other words if your worried about your block cracking get it long studded,but this only a cure of 1 problem!lol

as far as 200/205 blocks goes is there a difference in the bolt holes?as i'm guessing not,this would explian why both blocks have a problem with cracking without long studs,i was always under the impression the only difference was the 200 has thicker bores,but i have no factual basis on that.

i am going to use the arp stud and nut kit simply because i have bought it already but reading this thread it seems spending time making sure all available thread is made use of when installing them,essential.

hopefully i wont learn the expensive way,lol!
Old 02-07-2007, 09:29 PM
  #174  
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Long studding wa developed to increase clamping force for the head gasket was it not?

The block crack because they have had 2 bar ran thru them for 50k miles
Old 02-07-2007, 09:57 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by JonnyBravo
Did the BTCC RS500's have a problem with breaking the blocks ?
I can't be sure but I very much doubt it.
imo I cant see how you can compare a track dedicated car to a road car in any way what so ever. A road car is built and expected to have a reasonable engine life, given the spec, to make the out lay worth the effort. A track cars engine is built to last a race with no worries of budget, and in either case the block will be deemed scrap after only a few races in full works supply even if no fault was found during use.

Personaly I think a well prepped and fully seasoned (shame the old btcc cars couldnt get hold of 20yr old 205 blocks at the time eh....works for yank drag cars with their V8's!) 205 block can handle alot more power nowadays than when they were new...only if the rest of the engine is working 100% as a complete package mind.
Old 02-07-2007, 09:57 PM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
One of the Scandanavian's did the mod and regularly posts up the pictures of it, but I can't remember who .
i modded my elbow on mine if these pics help on a 4x4 manifold, just as a guide lol these were taken long before it was finished!!


quite alot bigger inside, maybe even twice the size so with a plenum spacer perfect???


and defo only ten long studs for me. the best in most eyes!
Old 02-07-2007, 10:37 PM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by rapidcossie
Long studding wa developed to increase clamping force for the head gasket was it not?
Its main reason is to stop the block twisting under load.


Lee
Old 02-07-2007, 10:43 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by TiB
Originally Posted by rapidcossie
Long studding wa developed to increase clamping force for the head gasket was it not?
Its main reason is to stop the block twisting under load.


Lee
Which is why arp's crack the block
Old 02-07-2007, 11:59 PM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by cossie604
Originally Posted by JonnyBravo
Did the BTCC RS500's have a problem with breaking the blocks ?
I can't be sure but I very much doubt it.
imo I cant see how you can compare a track dedicated car to a road car in any way what so ever. A road car is built and expected to have a reasonable engine life, given the spec, to make the out lay worth the effort. A track cars engine is built to last a race with no worries of budget, and in either case the block will be deemed scrap after only a few races in full works supply even if no fault was found during use.

Personaly I think a well prepped and fully seasoned (shame the old btcc cars couldnt get hold of 20yr old 205 blocks at the time eh....works for yank drag cars with their V8's!) 205 block can handle alot more power nowadays than when they were new...only if the rest of the engine is working 100% as a complete package mind.
I know they hardly done any miles but what they did do was at full power and for quite some time, not totally sure if they would of changed the block after every race though !

Its not all to do with power either, mine was a stage 3 engine, built from a new block and had probably covered around 5k when I removed the head to find the block cracked.

You wouldn't think stage 3 would kill a new block
Old 03-07-2007, 07:01 AM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by cossie604
A track cars engine is built to last a race with no worries of budget
that's simply not true, not for any category of racing, including F1 (the reason that engines have to last more than one race now is due to the FIA trying to keep the budget down)
Old 03-07-2007, 05:16 PM
  #181  
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So then ARP stud and nut kit is not recomeded for use over 2bar

If they are that bad WHY are they still being sold be the tuners?????
Old 03-07-2007, 05:19 PM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by costina
So then ARP stud and nut kit is not recomeded for use over 2bar

If they are that bad WHY are they still being sold be the tuners?????
Profit...... simple as..... I don't think MSD, NMS, MAD or Julian Godfrey, or Harvey Gibbs would reccomend using them which tells you all you need to know.
Old 03-07-2007, 06:07 PM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by Alps Pacino
abdr500

What i was getting at was i thought the arp studs were only torqued down the same as standard bolts, so same stress if you see what i mean
I dont know the thread sizes on the head ends of the ARP studs but if is is finer than the block end of a standard bolt then it will create more clamping force for the same tightening torque
Old 03-07-2007, 08:01 PM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by foreigneRS
Originally Posted by cossie604
A track cars engine is built to last a race with no worries of budget
that's simply not true, not for any category of racing, including F1 (the reason that engines have to last more than one race now is due to the FIA trying to keep the budget down)
Budget was not a problem in the 1980's BTCC.....and its only goal during that particular race is to finish in one peice. Ford put a life span of three world championship length rallies on the original cossie block...after this time it was recommended that that block in question was no longer used (quoted from the 1988 Ford Motorsport prep manual and hence that simply quite true).
Old 03-07-2007, 08:10 PM
  #185  
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well either way i still go back that a well set up and built cossie engine with a 205 block will last just as long as a 200 block at this level
Old 03-07-2007, 08:12 PM
  #186  
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doubt it, otherwise ford would not have developed the 200 block.
Old 03-07-2007, 08:15 PM
  #187  
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nope not having it so there!!!i still say it will last as long if built and set up right!
Old 03-07-2007, 08:17 PM
  #188  
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205 block redesign had nothing at all to do with horsepower fellas... How many 204bhp cossies do you think were cracking blocks and being replaced under warranty so that Ford had to redesign a new one.
Old 03-07-2007, 08:21 PM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
205 block redesign had nothing at all to do with horsepower fellas... How many 204bhp cossies do you think were cracking blocks and being replaced under warranty so that Ford had to redesign a new one.
thought it was redesigned for strength for rally cars nothing to do with the road cars as such.....so 300bhp and 4x4 hence why it came with the 4x4 saff.
Old 03-07-2007, 08:24 PM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by dingy
Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
205 block redesign had nothing at all to do with horsepower fellas... How many 204bhp cossies do you think were cracking blocks and being replaced under warranty so that Ford had to redesign a new one.
thought it was redesigned for strength for rally cars nothing to do with the road cars as such.....so 300bhp and 4x4 hence why it came with the 4x4 saff.
Correct. Having the front axle now using the block as stressed member with a diff and carrier eitherside of teh block required a little more meat cast into the bottom of it to retain block integrity with hard use.

Sod all to do with weaknesses of the 205 block in its native 2wd guise.
Old 03-07-2007, 08:27 PM
  #191  
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stu, wot sort of c/r do u need to run light blues or maybe greys on a 205 block?i only ask as my engine has been rebuilt but i aint got a clue what the c/r is i have receipts saying the pistons have been machained etc?i am runnin 803s at the mo but fancy more power?wot would u recommend?i would get her lived mapped(git it done on stage 3 even tho lots of people said not needed as its only a mild tune!)
Old 03-07-2007, 08:30 PM
  #192  
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Im still backing the theory that a well prepped 205 block can take it.......imo if its lasted this long then its gotta be a good un and after 20yrs the casting has gotta be well settled by now so its going to be stronger than it was when new.

What are these ere norweigan (sp?) lot doing with concret anyhows?? Im abit dubious about nipping into my local B&Q for a YB block strengthening kit but it seems to work for them?

If cracking is mainly a result of block flex then would a thicker walled sump also help the problem.....I presume one of Fords reasonings for going from the pinto's tin sump to the alloy sump was to help with block rigidity....so why not take that a stage futher? Or maybe a beefed up gearbox bell housing, as that would form a very large bolt on block brace??
Old 03-07-2007, 08:30 PM
  #193  
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its was beefed up lower down in the block ready to take the 4x4 when the 4x4 saff came out aparently the rushed the 1st blocks threw in time for the saff release or somthing like that
Old 03-07-2007, 08:37 PM
  #194  
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After just reading the topic on choclate 200 blocks from Turkey, id say me original 205 block is stronger than most of the 200 blocked cossie on these pages built in the last 3yrs

Brom...what block did you run/abuse in your old Saffy??
Old 03-07-2007, 08:38 PM
  #195  
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
Originally Posted by dingy
Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
205 block redesign had nothing at all to do with horsepower fellas... How many 204bhp cossies do you think were cracking blocks and being replaced under warranty so that Ford had to redesign a new one.
thought it was redesigned for strength for rally cars nothing to do with the road cars as such.....so 300bhp and 4x4 hence why it came with the 4x4 saff.
Correct. Having the front axle now using the block as stressed member with a diff and carrier eitherside of teh block required a little more meat cast into the bottom of it to retain block integrity with hard use.

Sod all to do with weaknesses of the 205 block in its native 2wd guise.
exactly what jeremy told me at cosworth 3 years back
Old 03-07-2007, 09:42 PM
  #196  
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see 205 block good enough
Old 03-07-2007, 11:00 PM
  #197  
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Default rolling road tested and it was 520 BHP

if you want 500bhp why not get this

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ford-Sierra-XR...QQcmdZViewItem
Old 04-07-2007, 07:42 AM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by cossie604
Originally Posted by foreigneRS
Originally Posted by cossie604
A track cars engine is built to last a race with no worries of budget
that's simply not true, not for any category of racing, including F1 (the reason that engines have to last more than one race now is due to the FIA trying to keep the budget down)
Budget was not a problem in the 1980's BTCC.....and its only goal during that particular race is to finish in one peice. Ford put a life span of three world championship length rallies on the original cossie block...after this time it was recommended that that block in question was no longer used (quoted from the 1988 Ford Motorsport prep manual and hence that simply quite true).
what do you mean 'budget was not a problem'? the budget was obviously not unlimited, there is a limit somewhere
Old 04-07-2007, 07:48 AM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by cossie604
After just reading the topic on choclate 200 blocks from Turkey, id say me original 205 block is stronger than most of the 200 blocked cossie on these pages built in the last 3yrs

Brom...what block did you run/abuse in your old Saffy??
205 block wire rung the block engine never failed and i did 178.9 at brunters once and got abused all its life due to me being banned at the time my mate used to drive it to track days n stuff then i used to give it death and go home
Old 04-07-2007, 10:27 AM
  #200  
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if u want a RELIABLE 500 plus im sure a 200 block we need saucing especially if the 205 block has been rebored more than once?(cylinder walls to near to water ways and excess cylinder pressure will crack your bores)


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