Revving high question *UPDATED*
30-04-2007, 12:50 PM
#82
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Originally Posted by AJ THE PF GOD
No it's the standard set up bud.
If you have the breather modified and the air box breather pipe blanked off, fit a catch tank it wont stall when you take the oil cap off
30-04-2007, 12:53 PM
#84
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doesnt stall if you take the dumpvalve off?
the idle mixture screw must be wound right in then. i'm guessing it wont rev/drive with the dumper off?
basically the flap controls the fuel, imagine as the flap moves it oopens a gate to let more/less fuel past and into the injectors (they dont squirt like an EFi injector, theyre always on, the K in KE-JET means constant in german)
your mixture screw on the metering head will simply push the flap down so in it's rest position it's not the air getting past thats pushing it down, the screw is holding it open.
so, you can make the car fuel enough at idle still by screwing it right in.
i'm confident that whent he car gets moving, it wont drive properly, as that screw has no effect on the position of the flap at anything other than idle
the idle mixture screw must be wound right in then. i'm guessing it wont rev/drive with the dumper off?
basically the flap controls the fuel, imagine as the flap moves it oopens a gate to let more/less fuel past and into the injectors (they dont squirt like an EFi injector, theyre always on, the K in KE-JET means constant in german)
your mixture screw on the metering head will simply push the flap down so in it's rest position it's not the air getting past thats pushing it down, the screw is holding it open.
so, you can make the car fuel enough at idle still by screwing it right in.
i'm confident that whent he car gets moving, it wont drive properly, as that screw has no effect on the position of the flap at anything other than idle
30-04-2007, 12:54 PM
#85
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i've got a copy of the K-JET manual somewhere in PDF which really helps to understand the basics behind how it works.
if i can find the bloody thing i can email it to you.
stu, do you still have a copy of it?
if i can find the bloody thing i can email it to you.
stu, do you still have a copy of it?
30-04-2007, 12:55 PM
#87
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Originally Posted by Jim Galbally
i've got a copy of the K-JET manual somewhere in PDF which really helps to understand the basics behind how it works.
if i can find the bloody thing i can email it to you.
Stu, do you still have a copy of it?
if i can find the bloody thing i can email it to you.
Stu, do you still have a copy of it?
30-04-2007, 12:56 PM
#88
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is the flap stiff, does it feel like it's getting stuck anywhere?
has it been converted to EFi and someone left the metering head in for a laugh?
has it been converted to EFi and someone left the metering head in for a laugh?
30-04-2007, 01:02 PM
#90
Originally Posted by AJ THE PF GOD
UPDATE!!!
I've taken off the throttle cable & screwed out the throttle stop screw & it's revving at 8.5 rpm
What's next Stu?
I've taken off the throttle cable & screwed out the throttle stop screw & it's revving at 8.5 rpm
What's next Stu?
Did you unscrew the TPS as i asked? Honest answer?
30-04-2007, 01:08 PM
#92
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It did go to stall as it started revving really low stu but i increased the idle by turning out the screw with the spring on it 
Did you want me to close that screw completely?
Did you want me to close that screw completely?
30-04-2007, 01:13 PM
#94
Originally Posted by AJ THE PF GOD
It did go to stall as it started revving really low Stu but i increased the idle by turning out the screw with the spring on it
Did you want me to close that screw completely?
Did you want me to close that screw completely?
Ok, now turn it off again, and screw that stud back in until it JUST contacts the throttle plate. Then turn it another 1/4 turn to stop the throttle gauging teh alloy body whemn you back off and lock it up there.
Adjust the tps so it CLICKS when you move the throttle and screw that back up.
Adjust air screw so it idles about 950
Get garage to set CO at idle to 2% for you.
Get it setup before hammering it.
Job Jobbed.
30-04-2007, 01:37 PM
#96
Originally Posted by AJ THE PF GOD
Ok done that Stu but the tps sensor doesnt click & if i take the plug off it doesnt make any difference 
30-04-2007, 02:06 PM
#97
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Any other ideas bud?
Also, the screw in the metering unit doesnt make any difference whether it's in or out - could it be down to a dodgy metering unit?
Also, the screw in the metering unit doesnt make any difference whether it's in or out - could it be down to a dodgy metering unit?
30-04-2007, 02:20 PM
#98
Originally Posted by AJ THE PF GOD
Any other ideas bud?
Also, the screw in the metering unit doesnt make any difference whether it's in or out - could it be down to a dodgy metering unit?
Also, the screw in the metering unit doesnt make any difference whether it's in or out - could it be down to a dodgy metering unit?
Ive given you a step by step and am awaiting your input after the adjustments i specified were made...
So is your idle back at 2500 now yourve made my adjustments?
30-04-2007, 02:40 PM
#99
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Sorry mate
No the idle's sitting at just under 1000rpm now thanks bud
But theres got to be something wrong as the car's not cutting out when you take off the breather hose's or take the oil filler cap off
No the idle's sitting at just under 1000rpm now thanks bud
But theres got to be something wrong as the car's not cutting out when you take off the breather hose's or take the oil filler cap off
30-04-2007, 02:48 PM
#100
Originally Posted by AJ THE PF GOD
Sorry mate
No the idle's sitting at just under 1000rpm now thanks bud
But theres got to be something wrong as the car's not cutting out when you take off the breather hose's or take the oil filler cap off
No the idle's sitting at just under 1000rpm now thanks bud
But theres got to be something wrong as the car's not cutting out when you take off the breather hose's or take the oil filler cap off
Also, if you have one, ENSURE the dump valve is a twin piston. Better still, take it off.
30-04-2007, 06:30 PM
#104
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
Originally Posted by AJ THE PF GOD
Cheers mate, just need to get it set up now then & get rid of the stupid dump valve
How much am i looking at roughly & when could you get me in mate?
30-04-2007, 06:34 PM
#105
Ł141 is the retail cost of a full setup inc vat.
Heres what you get for your money.
http://www.motorsport-developments.c...ginetuning.htm
And we are currently booking about a week in advance for such work sir.
Heres what you get for your money.
http://www.motorsport-developments.c...ginetuning.htm
And we are currently booking about a week in advance for such work sir.
01-05-2007, 12:27 PM
#107
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AJ,
The Auxiliary air device is the same as (idle bypass valve)
when the engine is cold the valve is used to bypass the throttle valve,
to increase the air speed (rpm )of the engine, is increased to atomise the fuel, like a choke on a carburettor, when the engine is cold the valve is open, and should close as the engine warms up, about 6,mins of engine running time. otherwise the idle speed will be high,
Regards Dave R.
The Auxiliary air device is the same as (idle bypass valve)
when the engine is cold the valve is used to bypass the throttle valve,
to increase the air speed (rpm )of the engine, is increased to atomise the fuel, like a choke on a carburettor, when the engine is cold the valve is open, and should close as the engine warms up, about 6,mins of engine running time. otherwise the idle speed will be high,
Regards Dave R.
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