Revving high question *UPDATED*
29-04-2007, 09:44 AM
#42
just finding my feet
what about meggascwert then 
dont wanna waste money on this,,,, YOU BOUGHT A 25 YEAR OLD FORD TURBO,,,,, AND IVE JUST FOUND OUT IT WAS OWNED BY ROOSIE
petrol first THEN matches and claim of the insurance
christ i was thinking about buying another cossie but get put off it by the poor boy image driving a shitty old ford
buying a car with a cracked dash, shite engine management, over heating problems and totally wank interior,,,,,, thats bad enough
i never thought about it when i heard " no aircon or power steering" let alone thought about the REAL problems with the erst's
dont wanna waste money on this,,,, YOU BOUGHT A 25 YEAR OLD FORD TURBO,,,,, AND IVE JUST FOUND OUT IT WAS OWNED BY ROOSIE
petrol first THEN matches and claim of the insurance
christ i was thinking about buying another cossie but get put off it by the poor boy image driving a shitty old ford
buying a car with a cracked dash, shite engine management, over heating problems and totally wank interior,,,,,, thats bad enough
i never thought about it when i heard " no aircon or power steering" let alone thought about the REAL problems with the erst's
29-04-2007, 06:00 PM
#50
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none of the sensors on the RST do much. it's 90% mechanical, the electronic bit is about as complicated as a BBC micro
bit like putting a blub on an alalog clock and calling it a digital
bit like putting a blub on an alalog clock and calling it a digital
29-04-2007, 09:06 PM
#52
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Hi All,
Cant believe no one has mentioned to check the auxiliary air device,KE,
it should close as the engine warms up,
Rst if they have a vacuum leak usually struggle to run, as no input for the air sensor plate?.
Regards Dave R.
Cant believe no one has mentioned to check the auxiliary air device,KE,
it should close as the engine warms up,
Rst if they have a vacuum leak usually struggle to run, as no input for the air sensor plate?.
Regards Dave R.
29-04-2007, 09:29 PM
#54
how about tps?? if its set wrongly would that not cause the same type of problem.
idle screw on the r/h side of the butterfly .. it has a hole in the middle of it, big spring outside of it, might be clogged with crap.
deffo sounds like an air leak tho... is the breather on the back of the engine l/h side the right way up?
has it got a dump valve ?
the metering head flap should sit flat closed before startup, it then lowers a fraction.
there is a pipe that connects the bottom of the metering head to the r/h side breather is it blocked or broken?
idle screw on the r/h side of the butterfly .. it has a hole in the middle of it, big spring outside of it, might be clogged with crap.
deffo sounds like an air leak tho... is the breather on the back of the engine l/h side the right way up?
has it got a dump valve ?
the metering head flap should sit flat closed before startup, it then lowers a fraction.
there is a pipe that connects the bottom of the metering head to the r/h side breather is it blocked or broken?
29-04-2007, 09:59 PM
#55
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davidreader5 the what? 
bud-weis that's an option
Eagle is there a way of resetting the tps? The screw with the spring on it (idle screw) is all the way in (closed) but it still revs high, it has a bailey dumpvalve which will be coming off once i get the replacement hoses, the metering unit mixture screw is about 10mm long so it doesnt even reach the flap.
Please help
bud-weis that's an option
Eagle is there a way of resetting the tps? The screw with the spring on it (idle screw) is all the way in (closed) but it still revs high, it has a bailey dumpvalve which will be coming off once i get the replacement hoses, the metering unit mixture screw is about 10mm long so it doesnt even reach the flap.
Please help
30-04-2007, 09:23 AM
#63
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Eagle It doesnt stall when you remove the cap, am i checking the bottom hose for splits?
Butch. thanks alot geeza
You know your gonna regret that offer mate
Butch. thanks alot geeza
You know your gonna regret that offer mate
30-04-2007, 10:17 AM
#67
Havent read this topic, am replyig to teh first post as its on 2 pages so i guess its not resolved.
Back to basics for problems like this fellas...
FACT 1:
An engines running speed is dictated by the air we ALLOW it to consume. Thats why we have throttles.
FACT 2:
If the air doesnt pass through the metering head on Bosch KE it wont normally run as it wont get any fuel.
FACT 3:
As teh system is closed loop and meters air in its own crankcase, any air leaks will cause a no run situation UNLESS its had teh breather disconnected from teh metering head?
This means its a good 95% probability that you have either:
A) A throttle thats not closed.
B) An Idle bypass valve thats not closed.
I would be looking to:
1) BACK OFF THe THROTTLE CABLE, OR BETTER STILL DISCONNECT IT.
2) SLACKEN BOTH SCREWS SECURING THE TPS.
3) UNSCREW THE 8MM NUT ON THE THROTTLE STOP.
4) UNSCREW THE THROTTLE STOP STUD COMPLETELY TO CLOSE THE THROTTLE OFF 100%.
SEE WHAT SHE IDLES AT THERE AND REPORT BACK.
Back to basics for problems like this fellas...
FACT 1:
An engines running speed is dictated by the air we ALLOW it to consume. Thats why we have throttles.
FACT 2:
If the air doesnt pass through the metering head on Bosch KE it wont normally run as it wont get any fuel.
FACT 3:
As teh system is closed loop and meters air in its own crankcase, any air leaks will cause a no run situation UNLESS its had teh breather disconnected from teh metering head?
This means its a good 95% probability that you have either:
A) A throttle thats not closed.
B) An Idle bypass valve thats not closed.
I would be looking to:
1) BACK OFF THe THROTTLE CABLE, OR BETTER STILL DISCONNECT IT.
2) SLACKEN BOTH SCREWS SECURING THE TPS.
3) UNSCREW THE 8MM NUT ON THE THROTTLE STOP.
4) UNSCREW THE THROTTLE STOP STUD COMPLETELY TO CLOSE THE THROTTLE OFF 100%.
SEE WHAT SHE IDLES AT THERE AND REPORT BACK.
30-04-2007, 10:23 AM
#69
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disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body and push the throttle butterfly back to its stop, this will rule out a sticking throttle cable.
does sound like an air leak, you need to look for a leak AFTER the throttle body, any leak before this would cause it to stall rather than rev high.
most likely suspect are the two hard plastic pipes that run from the throttle body to the aux air device & then up to the inlet, check these. also try disconnecting the aux air device, if not then try plugging both the pipes that run to it to eliminate the aux air device from being at fault.
does sound like an air leak, you need to look for a leak AFTER the throttle body, any leak before this would cause it to stall rather than rev high.
most likely suspect are the two hard plastic pipes that run from the throttle body to the aux air device & then up to the inlet, check these. also try disconnecting the aux air device, if not then try plugging both the pipes that run to it to eliminate the aux air device from being at fault.
30-04-2007, 12:39 PM
#76
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ok, now put the throttle linkage back together, it's fixed
was probably wound right out to stop it stalling tho, get it set up as soon as you get a chance. even if it's only a 20quid tune up at your local MOT place
was probably wound right out to stop it stalling tho, get it set up as soon as you get a chance. even if it's only a 20quid tune up at your local MOT place
