She lives!!!!
#1
She lives!!!!
Just wanted to share..
Cossie is now working again! Finished building the engine yesterday, complete with new big end bearings (for good measure), piston rings, honed bores, fully reworked head, including valve guides, stem seals, three angle seat cut, light removal of sharp edges to ports, etc etc.
Put the engine back into the car today, and got her running this afternoon! 500 miles of running in to do now.
Hurrah!
JJ
Cossie is now working again! Finished building the engine yesterday, complete with new big end bearings (for good measure), piston rings, honed bores, fully reworked head, including valve guides, stem seals, three angle seat cut, light removal of sharp edges to ports, etc etc.
Put the engine back into the car today, and got her running this afternoon! 500 miles of running in to do now.
Hurrah!
JJ
#4
Thanks Jay!
Its funny - two things confused me - the low number of miles to re-bed in the piston rings - I must admit, she wont be seeing boost for 1k.
the second thing was the complete lack of running in oil from anywhere!
I couldnt believe it - apparently castrol no longer make it.
As such, she is being run in on Magnatec! Doesnt really feel right!
JJ
Its funny - two things confused me - the low number of miles to re-bed in the piston rings - I must admit, she wont be seeing boost for 1k.
the second thing was the complete lack of running in oil from anywhere!
I couldnt believe it - apparently castrol no longer make it.
As such, she is being run in on Magnatec! Doesnt really feel right!
JJ
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#9
I had intentions of putting cheap grade oil in it for the first 500 miles, then at the last minute, changed my mind!
Hopefully the magnatec will allow it to bed the rings in. No boost, less than 4k, and also, no labouring engine for first 500 miles.
Think Ill follow your good form, Jay, and then do the same as you for the second 500 miles.
JJ
Hopefully the magnatec will allow it to bed the rings in. No boost, less than 4k, and also, no labouring engine for first 500 miles.
Think Ill follow your good form, Jay, and then do the same as you for the second 500 miles.
JJ
#12
Originally Posted by phill2400
Well done, will let you run it in then we can see how quick it is against mine (but dont tell si b ) dont want to tow him home again.
How is Si's car now it has been live mapped properly etc?
JJ
#16
Originally Posted by phill2400
I exspect we will go to western next week, last run out befofe the ring, to check all is well, sib car going verry well at the mo.
Hope your beast is as reliable as usual (Else you can always take the Lexus )
JJ
#17
Originally Posted by bud-weis
if you run it in like that it will smoke fairly soon!!
don't be scared of putting the hammer down a little
don't be scared of putting the hammer down a little
JJ
#18
well.....this is all IMO of course, but i honestly beleive that most running in periods that companies qoute are for their own benefit...i.e it's common for leaks to appear or ancillaries to rattle loose after a rebuild..
my own method was ;
run engine up to temp on shite oil...checking for leaks etc
blast around for 20 mins or so, not hitting full boost but a decent amount of revs and maybe up to 10psi or so..
then oil change again for the good stuff, and then i did about 400 miles, gradually building the revs and boost i put on the engine (starting at no more than 4k and a few psi building right up 6.5k and about 1bar boost.
i never let the engine labour at all (i don't anyway tbh)
i only really did 400 miles for the sake of doing them, in all honesty i'd have ragged it after 200 if i did it again i think...but i did regularly check nuts,bolts and for leaks
my own method was ;
run engine up to temp on shite oil...checking for leaks etc
blast around for 20 mins or so, not hitting full boost but a decent amount of revs and maybe up to 10psi or so..
then oil change again for the good stuff, and then i did about 400 miles, gradually building the revs and boost i put on the engine (starting at no more than 4k and a few psi building right up 6.5k and about 1bar boost.
i never let the engine labour at all (i don't anyway tbh)
i only really did 400 miles for the sake of doing them, in all honesty i'd have ragged it after 200 if i did it again i think...but i did regularly check nuts,bolts and for leaks
#19
It is a bit of a grey area, running engines in. I am always quite surprised how much difference there is in the advice given on this subject. Particularly from the mechanics!
More research required!
JJ
More research required!
JJ
#20
you can research until the cows come home JJ, but you'll get the same conclusion - 2 schools of thought
personally, i believe in using boost and load to spread the piston rings out against the bore. mineral oil for 500 miles with limited revs but plenty of on/off throttle action. then change to good oil with filter change and away you go
personally, i believe in using boost and load to spread the piston rings out against the bore. mineral oil for 500 miles with limited revs but plenty of on/off throttle action. then change to good oil with filter change and away you go
#21
PassionFords Creator
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Blackpool, UK Destination: Rev limiter
Originally Posted by foreigneRS
personally, i believe in using boost and load to spread the piston rings out against the bore. mineral oil for 500 miles with limited revs but plenty of on/off throttle action. then change to good oil with filter change and away you go
#22
Glad to here its back together JJ
Mp opinion on the running in:
Different honing finishes will of course benefit from different running in procedures, if its a rougher finnish then you need to be more gentle with it, but if its a fairly smooth hone then you need to give it some load in order to produce enough friction to run in properly.
Personally I go pretty gentley with engines to run them in generally though, although I do agree the vital thing is to vary the load, I think everyone agrees on that bet and its just how far to go with the max load it sees which people disagree on.
I wouldnt go over 4K for the first couple of hundred miles personally, then I would gradually increase it, and I wouldnt go more than about 10 psi.
But thats based on whats been found to work based on the guy that hones my bores and the finnish he gives, some people thoguh have a different grade of finnish and im sure a different approach will work better
Mp opinion on the running in:
Different honing finishes will of course benefit from different running in procedures, if its a rougher finnish then you need to be more gentle with it, but if its a fairly smooth hone then you need to give it some load in order to produce enough friction to run in properly.
Personally I go pretty gentley with engines to run them in generally though, although I do agree the vital thing is to vary the load, I think everyone agrees on that bet and its just how far to go with the max load it sees which people disagree on.
I wouldnt go over 4K for the first couple of hundred miles personally, then I would gradually increase it, and I wouldnt go more than about 10 psi.
But thats based on whats been found to work based on the guy that hones my bores and the finnish he gives, some people thoguh have a different grade of finnish and im sure a different approach will work better
#25
something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Silkolene-Ashf...QQcmdZViewItem
and its opie-oils so you'll get good service
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Silkolene-Ashf...QQcmdZViewItem
and its opie-oils so you'll get good service
#26
No worries - given the relative urgency, I will buy locally, and drop the oil tonight!
Seems like such a waste of oil though - even so - cheaper than an engine rebuild!
JJ
Seems like such a waste of oil though - even so - cheaper than an engine rebuild!
JJ
#27
#29
Originally Posted by gingeRS
JJ
#36
PS
Serious point here, if magnatec actually is magnetic, it will hold all the swarf to the bores even when you drain it out, nice huh?
So you better hope all that "stays distributed around your engine for days due to its magentic properties" is all just marketting bollocks mate
Serious point here, if magnatec actually is magnetic, it will hold all the swarf to the bores even when you drain it out, nice huh?
So you better hope all that "stays distributed around your engine for days due to its magentic properties" is all just marketting bollocks mate
#37
Originally Posted by Chip-3Door
PS
Serious point here, if magnatec actually is magnetic, it will hold all the swarf to the bores even when you drain it out, nice huh?
So you better hope all that "stays distributed around your engine for days due to its magentic properties" is all just marketting bollocks mate
Serious point here, if magnatec actually is magnetic, it will hold all the swarf to the bores even when you drain it out, nice huh?
So you better hope all that "stays distributed around your engine for days due to its magentic properties" is all just marketting bollocks mate