Limp home mode/ bad driving at low revs
#44
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Have you inspected the distributor cap closely. ????
Give it a good careful clean inside and out and see if there are any hairline cracks.
I had an odd one once that turned out to be the dizzi cap.
Give it a good careful clean inside and out and see if there are any hairline cracks.
I had an odd one once that turned out to be the dizzi cap.
#46
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Originally Posted by SECS
Have you inspected the distributor cap closely. ????
Give it a good careful clean inside and out and see if there are any hairline cracks.
I had an odd one once that turned out to be the dizzi cap.
Give it a good careful clean inside and out and see if there are any hairline cracks.
I had an odd one once that turned out to be the dizzi cap.
#47
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a good way to check for leaks on pipework is while the engine is running,
spray some carb cleaner (or other solvent based cleaner aerosol) around the inlet side of the engine, if the engine starts revving up when you spray, you have found the leak
spray some carb cleaner (or other solvent based cleaner aerosol) around the inlet side of the engine, if the engine starts revving up when you spray, you have found the leak
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#48
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You could have a point there
. For as if there is an airleak somewhere around the inlet system than the mapsensor can have too little vacuum and therefor send a 'too low' signal to the ECU. This could explain why driving away is so horrible.
But shouldnt the revs go down when you spray?
Will see what i have got. Will WD40 or brake cleaner also do the job?
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But shouldnt the revs go down when you spray?
Will see what i have got. Will WD40 or brake cleaner also do the job?
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wd40 wont work as thats a lubricatnt based one,
it has to be a evaporative alcohol type, like carb cleaner or degreaser... and yes the revs will go UP if it draws in the fumes from it near a leak ..
it has to be a evaporative alcohol type, like carb cleaner or degreaser... and yes the revs will go UP if it draws in the fumes from it near a leak ..
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#51
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Originally Posted by Dave Henshall
wd40 wont work as thats a lubricatnt based one,
it has to be a evaporative alcohol type, like carb cleaner or degreaser... and yes the revs will go UP if it draws in the fumes from it near a leak ..![Grin](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
it has to be a evaporative alcohol type, like carb cleaner or degreaser... and yes the revs will go UP if it draws in the fumes from it near a leak ..
![Grin](https://passionford.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
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#52
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Originally Posted by YBJ
Thanks, i will do some tests today I think!
much better than standard or silicon pipework...i did;
Map sensor Line
Dump Valve line
Amal Valve lines
Fuel Pressure Reg Vac line
might be worth doing rather than searching for leaks on them, as they are a good upgrade anyhow.
#53
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Hoping to get some new info on my engine problem I will give an update so far:
Well after the Ring meeting back in April on my way home the headgasket let go. A good reason to change it for a GrpA item. And also put all new fresh inlet gaskets everywhere. Also put in a new CTS and ATS sensor at the time.
After putting it all back together the engine run sweet after first start except.....still has got that 'no go' zone when you want to drive away if CO is set as required (2.7%). I have to turn it up to 8% so i can drive it smootly away.
Also mounted an onboard fuelpressure gauge to see what the pressure does through the whole rev range. I cant see anything weird when driving the car. No dips or anything like that.
Now I have read somewhere on the board that the base adjustment of the TPS can be critical. Measuring the voltage at closed throttle it says 0,192V which should be correct by Simon (SECS). When I measure the resistant at closed throttle it is 38-40 ohms.
But on the board someone says that the most accurate setting is about 70 ohms. In my opinion with this value you give the ECU a trigger that the throttle is a little more open. Therefor if you drive away those higher value also will be calculate more.
Is this 70 ohms base setting for the TPS a correct one and could it solve the problem without doing any harm to the engine?
Well after the Ring meeting back in April on my way home the headgasket let go. A good reason to change it for a GrpA item. And also put all new fresh inlet gaskets everywhere. Also put in a new CTS and ATS sensor at the time.
After putting it all back together the engine run sweet after first start except.....still has got that 'no go' zone when you want to drive away if CO is set as required (2.7%). I have to turn it up to 8% so i can drive it smootly away.
Also mounted an onboard fuelpressure gauge to see what the pressure does through the whole rev range. I cant see anything weird when driving the car. No dips or anything like that.
Now I have read somewhere on the board that the base adjustment of the TPS can be critical. Measuring the voltage at closed throttle it says 0,192V which should be correct by Simon (SECS). When I measure the resistant at closed throttle it is 38-40 ohms.
But on the board someone says that the most accurate setting is about 70 ohms. In my opinion with this value you give the ECU a trigger that the throttle is a little more open. Therefor if you drive away those higher value also will be calculate more.
Is this 70 ohms base setting for the TPS a correct one and could it solve the problem without doing any harm to the engine?
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I'm sorry I can't help with your problem as I know nothing techincal about cossie engines, just wanted to say fair play for persevering with trying to fix it yourself and not just paying someone to do it, or setting fire to the car.
#55
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Thanks
. Well I do have a technical aducation so I can source a lot myself. But with problems like this you also need to know what certain offsets for his system the manufactor had in mind. These two together can bring a solution. So I hope someone can tell the right offset for this TPS.
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#56
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Just found this old post of me, but didnt finished it with the solution... After all the investigation and help, measuring values and checked them with correct figures, changing sensors and more finally it turned out to be the chip itself...
Now running a new chip for the setup, but with advanced closed loop and since I put it in all was fine!!
So for other persons who have got these symptoms, suspect a bad chip.
Now running a new chip for the setup, but with advanced closed loop and since I put it in all was fine!!
So for other persons who have got these symptoms, suspect a bad chip.
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