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Limp home mode/ bad driving at low revs

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Old 28-02-2007, 05:29 PM
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Just got an PM from here someone advised me to inspect the hose to the mapsensor for cracks. It could be indeed be this simple.
Old 28-02-2007, 05:30 PM
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A good sugestion.... Didnt think of that one myself
Old 28-02-2007, 08:17 PM
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Well, inspected the hose of map sensor tonight be all seems ok..
Old 28-02-2007, 08:24 PM
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Have you inspected the distributor cap closely. ????

Give it a good careful clean inside and out and see if there are any hairline cracks.
I had an odd one once that turned out to be the dizzi cap.
Old 01-03-2007, 05:18 AM
  #45  
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Solved?
Old 01-03-2007, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SECS
Have you inspected the distributor cap closely. ????

Give it a good careful clean inside and out and see if there are any hairline cracks.
I had an odd one once that turned out to be the dizzi cap.
Aready did put a new one on it incl new rotor but made no difference..
Old 01-03-2007, 04:43 PM
  #47  
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a good way to check for leaks on pipework is while the engine is running,

spray some carb cleaner (or other solvent based cleaner aerosol) around the inlet side of the engine, if the engine starts revving up when you spray, you have found the leak
Old 01-03-2007, 05:34 PM
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You could have a point there . For as if there is an airleak somewhere around the inlet system than the mapsensor can have too little vacuum and therefor send a 'too low' signal to the ECU. This could explain why driving away is so horrible.

But shouldnt the revs go down when you spray?

Will see what i have got. Will WD40 or brake cleaner also do the job?
Old 02-03-2007, 07:23 AM
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wd40 wont work as thats a lubricatnt based one,

it has to be a evaporative alcohol type, like carb cleaner or degreaser... and yes the revs will go UP if it draws in the fumes from it near a leak ..
Old 02-03-2007, 10:11 AM
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Thanks, i will do some tests today I think!
Old 02-03-2007, 10:59 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Dave Henshall
wd40 wont work as thats a lubricatnt based one,

it has to be a evaporative alcohol type, like carb cleaner or degreaser... and yes the revs will go UP if it draws in the fumes from it near a leak ..
Excellent bit of info. Have heard it before, but forgot about it. One thing you wont need to do is check for air leaks on your new motor
Old 02-03-2007, 11:07 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by YBJ
Thanks, i will do some tests today I think!
i replaced all of my 'signal' pipes with fuel supply hose from my local motor factors....cost me about Ł15 max, the good thing is it's got cotton threads inside so it's strong.....it comes in all different ID's too..

much better than standard or silicon pipework...i did;

Map sensor Line
Dump Valve line
Amal Valve lines
Fuel Pressure Reg Vac line

might be worth doing rather than searching for leaks on them, as they are a good upgrade anyhow.
Old 16-06-2007, 08:09 PM
  #53  
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Hoping to get some new info on my engine problem I will give an update so far:

Well after the Ring meeting back in April on my way home the headgasket let go. A good reason to change it for a GrpA item. And also put all new fresh inlet gaskets everywhere. Also put in a new CTS and ATS sensor at the time.

After putting it all back together the engine run sweet after first start except.....still has got that 'no go' zone when you want to drive away if CO is set as required (2.7%). I have to turn it up to 8% so i can drive it smootly away.

Also mounted an onboard fuelpressure gauge to see what the pressure does through the whole rev range. I cant see anything weird when driving the car. No dips or anything like that.

Now I have read somewhere on the board that the base adjustment of the TPS can be critical. Measuring the voltage at closed throttle it says 0,192V which should be correct by Simon (SECS). When I measure the resistant at closed throttle it is 38-40 ohms.

But on the board someone says that the most accurate setting is about 70 ohms. In my opinion with this value you give the ECU a trigger that the throttle is a little more open. Therefor if you drive away those higher value also will be calculate more.

Is this 70 ohms base setting for the TPS a correct one and could it solve the problem without doing any harm to the engine?
Old 16-06-2007, 09:47 PM
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I'm sorry I can't help with your problem as I know nothing techincal about cossie engines, just wanted to say fair play for persevering with trying to fix it yourself and not just paying someone to do it, or setting fire to the car.
Old 17-06-2007, 12:16 PM
  #55  
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Thanks . Well I do have a technical aducation so I can source a lot myself. But with problems like this you also need to know what certain offsets for his system the manufactor had in mind. These two together can bring a solution. So I hope someone can tell the right offset for this TPS.
Old 13-07-2009, 09:39 AM
  #56  
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Just found this old post of me, but didnt finished it with the solution... After all the investigation and help, measuring values and checked them with correct figures, changing sensors and more finally it turned out to be the chip itself...

Now running a new chip for the setup, but with advanced closed loop and since I put it in all was fine!!

So for other persons who have got these symptoms, suspect a bad chip.
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