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Old 07-09-2004 | 08:02 PM
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Default Relay Earth

i'm having trouble and just need to check what i've done.

i connected my earth from the fan to the earth pin on the relay and scotch locked into that earth and then connected it to the chassis.

should the earth pin on the relay go straight to earth and the same for the one off the fan?
Old 07-09-2004 | 08:07 PM
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Depends on how the system is wired....

BTW you should be shot for using Scotchloks!!
Old 07-09-2004 | 08:14 PM
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i don't care, i'm so shit at electrics anyway

what do you mean by depends?
Old 07-09-2004 | 08:15 PM
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I only clicked on this topic to abuse the hell out of you for using scotchloks, but Daz beat me to it - bastard!!
Old 07-09-2004 | 08:18 PM
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come on people, its a simple enough question.

have i earthed the relays correct?

there is no point in me solering it if its fucking wrong now is there?
Old 07-09-2004 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Escy
i don't care, i'm so shit at electrics anyway

what do you mean by depends?
Well pay someone to do it properly before your car sets on fire and burns to a fecking crisp leaving you sat on the hard shoulder!

It depends how piss poorly incorrect you have wired it up and what you want/expect the fans to do?
Old 07-09-2004 | 08:23 PM
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i'm 99% sure each pin on my relay is wired correct as i followed a good guide.

not sure about how i did the earth? should i have just connected the earth from the fan to the chassis and run a seperate earth wire from the earth pin on the relay to the chassis?

i've connected the 2. dunno if it makes a difference.

the problem i have is that the temp sensor in the rad isn't triggering the fan. if i short the pin from the relay that has the temp sender connected to it to the battery the fan goes. my mate suggested thats a sign of a bad earth?

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Old 07-09-2004 | 08:24 PM
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the problem with scotchloks is if there is a problem it is more often that not due these fucking things!!! you may have wired it up properly but the wanky shitloks aren't making proper contact!

If you are not sure and dont want to solder just bare the wires and twist them together. at least then you can see that they are making contact and if it works you can then solder them!

also explain in a bit more detail what you are trying to achieve etc and I'm sure someone can help!
Old 07-09-2004 | 08:29 PM
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Is the relay you are using switching the earth or the positive?
Old 07-09-2004 | 08:33 PM
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If it's for the fans, you need the fan switch to switch the earth of the relays and earth the fans directly to the vehicle chassis...
Old 07-09-2004 | 08:34 PM
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you've lost me there Spadge.

can you explain what you mean?
Old 07-09-2004 | 08:43 PM
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Easy mate
If you are using a standard type 4 pin relay it will have an ignition live to one pin and an earth to another to switch it yes?
Then a live running to one side of the switched part of the relay from the battery and a wire coming from the other which is your switched live!
With the above you are switching the live on and off via the relay yes??

The switched live will then go down to your fans live connection

The earth connection from the fans will go to one side of the rad switch and the wire from the other side of the rad switch will go to earth!
Old 07-09-2004 | 08:45 PM
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Forgot to mention there should be an inline fuse between the ignition live and the relay and the live from battery to relay and onto the fans should be a decent size of wire!
Old 07-09-2004 | 08:50 PM
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i'm using a 4 pin relay that has a fuse in the top.

i wired it according to this..



85 is now a direct ground to the chassis
30/51 is my battery live (i'm not using ignition live)
86 is what my temp sensor wire is connected to
87 is what my fan positive is connected to

does this sound correct?
Old 07-09-2004 | 09:03 PM
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Your fan swich cannot handle positive current. You need to give 86 an ignition feed and 85 needs to go to one terminal on your fan switch and then the other terminal on the fan switch needs to be grounded to the chassis...that way the fan switch is switching the earth on for the relay.
Old 07-09-2004 | 09:05 PM
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Terminal 86 needs to be a live which your temp sensor wire is not!
Old 07-09-2004 | 09:32 PM
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Just loop 30 to 86.

Then use pin 85 through the sender switch, and then to earth.

Or exactly as Daz and Spadge said
Old 07-09-2004 | 09:53 PM
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this place is wicked

cheers guys, will give it another go tomorrow

just to check...

i put my positive from the fan motor to 85 earth pin and my earth from the fan motor stays grounded to the chassis? (obviously the other way around if it blows instead of sucks)

if thats correct, what happens to pin 87 which is what my fan positive was connected to?

to give pin 86 which is my temp sender a live, do i just splice into my battery live/ignition live (pin 30/51)
Old 07-09-2004 | 10:56 PM
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back up
Old 08-09-2004 | 08:21 AM
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I'll explain it so it's easier to read.

Take the fans. Connect the earth of the fans to a good clean earthing point. Connect the positive of the fans to pin 87.

Run a fused live from the battery to pin 30 of the relay (making sure the wire is of sufficient size to handle the current draw. Run a very small length of wire from pin 30 to pin 86.

Run a wire from pin 85 to the fan sender switch, and from the other side of the sender switch to a good earth (usually the same one the fans are earthed to).

In laymans terms, what will happen is that the temp sender switch will see a pre-determined temperature, and close it's internal switch. This completes the earth track, which activates the relay, sending power from the battery making the fans run.

That's it........................
Old 08-09-2004 | 12:40 PM
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still not working, let me check i've done it right

pin 30 = battery live
pin 86 = scotched locked (yes, indeed it is ) into pin 30
pin 87 = positive from the fan motor
pin 85 = to the fan sender switch
Old 08-09-2004 | 01:00 PM
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Did you put in a new fan sender switch ?
As they fuck up too.
Even the connectors fuck up.

I guess it's the same one as in a Fiesta XR2i / RS Turbo.

The fan sender gets positive feed from the fuse box on those cars.
Old 08-09-2004 | 01:18 PM
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its a Hyundai rad and its going in my 200SX.

i was thinking that the switch might be shagged, how can i test it?
Old 08-09-2004 | 02:04 PM
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Thought u said earlier that u thought the temp sender switch was U/S

What I done in mine is different to what everyone else telling u to do but in my case i prefer it

All I have done is join two wires in PARRALLEL (sp) across the sender unit switched on the relay, so when i want the fans on it fools em into thinking the temp is high, but if i miss the temp rising the original sender still does the job, also if the sender is dodgy and at some future point u replace it then aint no messing with wiring again as will still work the same.

Also recon wiring is easier as below.

run a fused wire from battery (only needs to be really thin wire and smallest fuse say 1A as only draw is coil in relay) to terminal 86 of your relay (this does mean that u can run the fans with ignition off which is good and bad lol)

run a wire from terminal 85 to one side of a switch mounted in the car, and from the other side of the switch run to a good earth (again only needs to be small csa cable)

run WIRES (one on each) to terminals 30 and 87 of your relay and join one of each of these to each side of the temp sender unit (so basicaly adding an extra wire to each side of your temp sender to the relay terminals 87 and 30, note ADDING u do not need to remove the old wires from the sender join onto them, this is how it still works off the current sender AS WELL) note if u decide not to use the sender at all u MUST connect to the wires not the sender unit as this is how this method works using the cars own wiring (so basically the wires from terminals 30 and 87 of relay connect to the two wires that originally/still do go to the sender unit.

Dont matter how the fans switch wired this way and relay not switching any big currents so small wiring can be used

Only draw back is if u have a prob with original fan wiring (not temp sender unit cause u bypassing that, mean original FAN wiring fuses relays )

Hope this helps, would mean u would probs have to redo alot of what u done but imo it is a better method.

OH and if u gonna still use your scotchblocks without telling anyone there is LESS chance of em failing this way due to less current draw, but DO AGREE with everyone DONT use em , ANYWHERE lol

Steve
Old 08-09-2004 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by The Rapid 1
Thought u said earlier that u thought the temp sender switch was U/S Steve
what does U/S mean?

i'm running 2 electric fans, so i was going to wire my second one to come on with the aircon and have a switch in the dash to turn it on when i fancy.

so i can check my existing wiring is done properly, should the positive wire from the relay to the temp sender be positive or negative when the fans not working?
Old 09-09-2004 | 08:47 PM
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bump.

really want to know if when my fans aren't on, if the temp sensor wire should be negative or positive.

this should hopefully let me know if i have actually wired it properly
Old 10-09-2004 | 04:22 PM
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still not got it to go.

when i give a direct earth to pin 85 (temp sender) it spins in to action.

does that mean that all the wiring is correct?

i'm thinking temp sensor now
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