Escort cossie CRACKED Block
03-09-2004, 10:55 AM
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The engineer reckons it had been using water for some time mate, he thinks for perhaps upto a month or more before I bought it, he was gonna come with me the day i bought it but couldnt at the last minute, he was gonna do a leak down test and a compression test for me but he had to work, so im sad to know now that the previous owner knowingly sold it to me like this 
03-09-2004, 10:56 AM
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cheers Karl
and thanks Ian, Im gonna rebuild a engine on a new block and re use these pistons and crank, and the head should be MINT otherwise the motor was sound
and thanks Ian, Im gonna rebuild a engine on a new block and re use these pistons and crank, and the head should be MINT otherwise the motor was sound
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03-09-2004, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by bbigman2000
cheers Karl
and thanks Ian, Im gonna rebuild a engine on a new block and re use these pistons and crank, and the head should be MINT otherwise the motor was sound
and thanks Ian, Im gonna rebuild a engine on a new block and re use these pistons and crank, and the head should be MINT otherwise the motor was sound
03-09-2004, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Karl
I see a lot of 200 blocks like this. Strangly enough its not an issue I find with 205's or late 200 blocks.
Were you using std head bolts or ARP's?
Were you using std head bolts or ARP's?
03-09-2004, 11:58 AM
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Hi...this is the perils of using STANDARD head bolts on a big power engine...i assume you had more than stage 3?????
This is EXACTLY what happened to me as the std bolts cannot clamp enuff as the head is trying to be thrown off the engine!..CRACK...use WRC long stud or ARP's at the bare minimum.
Sorry Karl ARP do NOT crack blocks if installed correctly unless you are on mega boost in which case WRC long stud is the only clamp to have!
YES some get away with it..some dont...do it right first time..rofl can you beleive i am saying this
This is EXACTLY what happened to me as the std bolts cannot clamp enuff as the head is trying to be thrown off the engine!..CRACK...use WRC long stud or ARP's at the bare minimum.
Sorry Karl ARP do NOT crack blocks if installed correctly unless you are on mega boost in which case WRC long stud is the only clamp to have!
YES some get away with it..some dont...do it right first time..rofl can you beleive i am saying this
03-09-2004, 01:34 PM
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oh dear and you said skylines were unreliable ....after u said u were getting a esc cossy on the gtr forum i knew it wouldnt be long .....i suppose u could alwaya get a supra 
....after u said u were getting a esc cossy on the gtr forum i knew it wouldnt be long .....i suppose u could alwaya get a supra
03-09-2004, 01:43 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Ima-Racing500
Hi...this is the perils of using STANDARD head bolts on a big power engine...i assume you had more than stage 3?????
This is EXACTLY what happened to me as the std bolts cannot clamp enuff as the head is trying to be thrown off the engine!..CRACK...use WRC long stud or ARP's at the bare minimum.
Sorry Karl ARP do NOT crack blocks if installed correctly unless you are on mega boost in which case WRC long stud is the only clamp to have!
YES some get away with it..some dont...do it right first time..rofl can you beleive i am saying this
This is EXACTLY what happened to me as the std bolts cannot clamp enuff as the head is trying to be thrown off the engine!..CRACK...use WRC long stud or ARP's at the bare minimum.
Sorry Karl ARP do NOT crack blocks if installed correctly unless you are on mega boost in which case WRC long stud is the only clamp to have!
YES some get away with it..some dont...do it right first time..rofl can you beleive i am saying this
03-09-2004, 02:21 PM
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Y2KRS...the outer 4 are std...the middle 6 is where the most force is and is clamped tighter than the outer 4..if all were the same tightness youd crack the block
As you see its gone in places around the middle 6 holes
As you see its gone in places around the middle 6 holes
03-09-2004, 03:29 PM
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This is EXACTLY what happened to me as the std bolts cannot clamp enuff as the head is trying to be thrown off the engine!..CRACK...use WRC long stud or ARP's at the bare minimum.
Sorry Karl ARP do NOT crack blocks if installed correctly unless you are on mega boost in which case WRC long stud is the only clamp to have!
YES some get away with it..some dont...do it right first time..rofl can you beleive i am saying this [/quote]
so by long studing a block the engine dont try and push the head off
Sorry Karl ARP do NOT crack blocks if installed correctly unless you are on mega boost in which case WRC long stud is the only clamp to have!
YES some get away with it..some dont...do it right first time..rofl can you beleive i am saying this
[/quote]so by long studing a block the engine dont try and push the head off
03-09-2004, 03:38 PM
#20
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there is nothing wrong with standard bolts, and i would be more then happy to bolt a 500 hp cossie engine together using standard bolts!
as for arp head stud and nut kit,,,,,, turd is all i have to say
as for arp head stud and nut kit,,,,,, turd is all i have to say
03-09-2004, 03:40 PM
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cheers for the advice lads, ive got a budget of 3k to build a new motor, so I can take my time over the next 4 months and gather up all the good info and decide on the route to follow, as I said before I dont want or need more than 350ish bhp
regards Glen
regards Glen
03-09-2004, 03:41 PM
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....and no experience is what i have to say Gareth 
Not all theorys are correct!
Alan...of course it tries to life the head off still
BUT it has an impossible task with long stud!
Not all theorys are correct!Alan...of course it tries to life the head off still
BUT it has an impossible task with long stud!
03-09-2004, 03:43 PM
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Alan...of course it tries to life the head off still BUT it has an impossible task with long stud![/quote]
life the head off is this over a period of time
BUT it has an impossible task with long stud![/quote]life the head off is this over a period of time
04-09-2004, 04:00 AM
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why risk using standard bolts? long stud a 200 block and you will be well away, you probably can make 500BHP run with standard bolts, and no doubt it has been done many times successfully, but why not use PROVEN methods and get a bullet-proof bottom end built? for Ł350 you can't go wrong! As Brom said, put new pistons in, saving a few hundred quid now will cost you dear in the long run, you wouldn't put new brake disks on with old pads would you? 
BUILD IT ONCE,BUILD IT RIGHT
Oh and from personal experience, ARP bolts are dogshit, don't waste your time or money on them.(and yes they were installed correctly)
BUILD IT ONCE,BUILD IT RIGHT Oh and from personal experience, ARP bolts are dogshit, don't waste your time or money on them.(and yes they were installed correctly)
04-09-2004, 08:48 AM
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Why are there som guys in here that think ARP bolte are shit?
What IS better then std. bolts then???
I`v seen a few engines here in scandinavia that runs ARP, and they would never hold together with standard bolts, and we are talking about 650+hp engines...
What IS better then std. bolts then???
I`v seen a few engines here in scandinavia that runs ARP, and they would never hold together with standard bolts, and we are talking about 650+hp engines...
04-09-2004, 09:03 AM
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"I`v seen a few engines here in scandinavia that runs ARP, and they would never hold together with standard bolts, and we are talking about 650+hp engines..."
When pro tuners come on here and slate ARP bolts my estimation goes down on there actual ability!...Its a case of they seen ONE cracked block and it run ARP bolts and condemn them as rubbish...i wonder if when a mahle piston melts they also say they are shit?
When pro tuners come on here and slate ARP bolts my estimation goes down on there actual ability!...Its a case of they seen ONE cracked block and it run ARP bolts and condemn them as rubbish...i wonder if when a mahle piston melts they also say they are shit?
04-09-2004, 09:11 AM
#30
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Originally Posted by Ima-Racing500
....and no experience is what i have to say Gareth Not all theorys are correct!
Alan...of course it tries to life the head off still BUT it has an impossible task with long stud!
Not all theorys are correct!Alan...of course it tries to life the head off still
BUT it has an impossible task with long stud!
04-09-2004, 09:24 AM
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thats what happend to my 205 block,i was only running stg1 with 16psi,when i put my foot down it blew all the water out my header tank ,there was a trader up nat day who had sold a 200 block to some mug with the exact same thing,how mug did not see it i will never know.
cheeRS gary
AKA shrek
,there was a trader up nat day who had sold a 200 block to some mug with the exact same thing,how mug did not see it i will never know.cheeRS gary
AKA shrek
04-09-2004, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by shamoan mother fukcer
there was a trader up nat day who had sold a 200 block to some mug with the exact same thing,how mug did not see it i will never know.
which trader was that!!!!??? 
04-09-2004, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Uncle Henry
Originally Posted by shamoan mother fukcer
there was a trader up nat day who had sold a 200 block to some mug with the exact same thing,how mug did not see it i will never know.
which trader was that!!!!??? cheeRS gary
AKA shrek
04-09-2004, 04:37 PM
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I second that ARP bolts are crap ..
from my experience they put too much strain on the block..
And i got a cracked block aswell ..
never used them again .. and never got a cracked block again
rather have a 4 layer wrc headgasket with standard bolts.. or long studded with the same headgasket.. never goes wrong sofar..
And yes they where fitted correctly...
from my experience they put too much strain on the block..
And i got a cracked block aswell ..
never used them again .. and never got a cracked block again
rather have a 4 layer wrc headgasket with standard bolts.. or long studded with the same headgasket.. never goes wrong sofar..
And yes they where fitted correctly...
04-09-2004, 04:45 PM
#37
Norris Motorsport
LOL I thought I'd let this post roll on to see what comments we got.
Firstly Ima you are VERY confused. If you look at an ARP stud it also uses the same deck face threads as the std bolt. This would mean that irrespective of which method you used (i.e. ARP or std bolts) both are pulling on the block from the same thread holes.
Yet you claim std bolts crack the block and ARP's dont? How then in your wisdom if we have the same cylinder pressures can an engine with std head bolts crack the block yet ARP bolts dont? Both engines are trying to lift the head equally, yet a std head bolt will crack the block? WHY, PLEASE DO EXPLAIN?? PMSL You really are a true comedian!!
Anyway I refuse to educate folk on this matter, as I know the pro's and con's of all the methods. Long studding is not the success you would imagine. Yes it places the thread force down into the base of the block but there are serious issues caused by using long through studs.
If you think std head bolts are shite then consider to yourself how a std engine can last 100,000 miles + with no issues. When people talk about raising the power being an issue to head bolts that's total nonsense!!! If you honestly think that by doubling the engine power causes the head to lift and crack the block then you're all as stupid as I thought!!!
Anyway enjoy the rest of the post I'm sure there'll be some arguing!!!
Firstly Ima you are VERY confused. If you look at an ARP stud it also uses the same deck face threads as the std bolt. This would mean that irrespective of which method you used (i.e. ARP or std bolts) both are pulling on the block from the same thread holes.
Yet you claim std bolts crack the block and ARP's dont? How then in your wisdom if we have the same cylinder pressures can an engine with std head bolts crack the block yet ARP bolts dont? Both engines are trying to lift the head equally, yet a std head bolt will crack the block? WHY, PLEASE DO EXPLAIN?? PMSL
You really are a true comedian!!Anyway I refuse to educate folk on this matter, as I know the pro's and con's of all the methods. Long studding is not the success you would imagine. Yes it places the thread force down into the base of the block but there are serious issues caused by using long through studs.
If you think std head bolts are shite then consider to yourself how a std engine can last 100,000 miles + with no issues. When people talk about raising the power being an issue to head bolts that's total nonsense!!! If you honestly think that by doubling the engine power causes the head to lift and crack the block then you're all as stupid as I thought!!!
Anyway enjoy the rest of the post I'm sure there'll be some arguing!!!
05-09-2004, 09:28 AM
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Dear Karl.
ARP's actually DONT stretch so with that you get a better clamp If i'd have used them instead of taking the advice re std headbolts i beleive the block would not have cracked and the gasket would not have blown because of the xtra clampage....Let me put it in easy terms for you...if you get a hard on wearing boxer shorts you get much lifting of the shorts...if you get a hard on in tight y-fronts much less lifting due to being tighter...i hope thats explains it Karl..ROFL
As for your last comment :-
" If you honestly think that by doubling the engine power causes the head to lift and crack the block then you're all as stupid as I thought!!! "
This all depends on how you acheive the double in power...if its all done by BOOST then this is what causes the xtra lift off.
Your car is on std head bolts using the big washers (alledgedly) which is excellent,and i doubt they will cause your block to crack because it dont happen to everyone...just like not all engines that run ARP's crack the block..do you get that Karl...you bang on like they WILL do damage,which from a pro aint very good sense!
ARP's actually DONT stretch so with that you get a better clamp
If i'd have used them instead of taking the advice re std headbolts i beleive the block would not have cracked and the gasket would not have blown because of the xtra clampage....Let me put it in easy terms for you...if you get a hard on wearing boxer shorts you get much lifting of the shorts...if you get a hard on in tight y-fronts much less lifting due to being tighter...i hope thats explains it Karl..ROFL As for your last comment :-
" If you honestly think that by doubling the engine power causes the head to lift and crack the block then you're all as stupid as I thought!!! "
This all depends on how you acheive the double in power...if its all done by BOOST then this is what causes the xtra lift off.
Your car is on std head bolts using the big washers (alledgedly) which is excellent,and i doubt they will cause your block to crack because it dont happen to everyone...just like not all engines that run ARP's crack the block..do you get that Karl...you bang on like they WILL do damage,which from a pro aint very good sense!