..just timed the car up...now i always thought the ignition timing mark was the half moon mark on the block and put the pointer in the middle and that then lones up with the mark on the dizzy body...now my home built engine does just that...this one when the dizzy mark is lined up with the rotor the pulley pointer is more anti clockwise...aim i timed uyp ok and what would happen if its wrong?...(all cam timing is spot on)..It fires up and runs lovely..bit rattley to start but is now virtually rattle free a good run will sort it (new followers in)


??

 

the way i looked at the dizzy when i timed mine up was take teh cap off and the rotor arm will point to a dot inside the dizzy and the arrow on the pulley points at roughly 1-2 oclock

 

..well it does that on this engine

..just need symtoms in case i got it wrong?

 

it will run like a bag of shit if the timing wrongs surely

 

...must be ok then

 

Bosch man: just make sure that the rotor is on the dot when timing

And yes, it WILL run like SH** it its not timed correctly, it will either knock or loose power

 

Just for future reference....

The Distributor does NOT affect ignition timing or injection start point.
It is only used to tell the ecu which "PHASE" it is on.
I.E. Which injector to fire next and also obviously which spark plug is next.

The crank sensor controls ALL timing.

 

Cheers Simon

 

lke cossiemanden says, just make sure the dot it lined up and your phase sensor will be fine

 

omg i can't believe that you've been tuning cossies all this time and didn't know that the distributor only does just that - distributes the spark to the correct cylinder - and has no influence on the timing of it (except the function of the phase sensor) (that's the nearest smilie that we have for a cowboy)

 

..thats DIY baby.

....BUT you then go on to say phase sensor so if i had timed it like my other engine it would infact be out?..

 

 

NO - the phase sensor does nothing with the actual timing (in terms of advance or, perhaps more appropriately in your case, retard). it just tells the ecu which phase the engine is in as a crank position sensor cannot do that alone (as it is a 4 stroke cycle that has 2 crank revolutions per cycle).

 

Classical.

 

..now your just getting technical..which i dont really need to know ...i asked a question to be safe...nowt wrong in that no matter how retarded the brain boxes think it is...not all are well educated..in my case NOT educated

I think if Chip carries on as he is i may be his mate ..you gotta make allowances for dumbo's instead of taking the piss like you Foriegn geezer and the old Chip...but i doubt it will last ..

 

i can't help it phil, you set yourself up for it it's all lighthearted humour

if you were new on the board, or new to cossies, i would have a different attitude and be more helpful without the sarcasm and piss taking, but you've always blown your own trumpet about how good you are at diy tuning so i see you as a target.

you just worry me slightly that you do a lot of fiddling about with things like fuel quality retard jumpers that do affect the spark timing, yet you don't seem to know the basics of how your engine management system works. i would also recomend to you that you read dave walkers book on efi to get a good grasp of the basics, as by your own admission you are not technically profficient.

 

Oh i see no worries.....the bridge on the timing shouldnt have been on there..it was MAD thing as it was a 7.4-1 engine on a ahmed 7.2-1 map so had to take ignition out...Obviously my NMS map was for 7.4-1 hence no need to have that bridge..and the way it now feels is so much better!


I have made many mistakes building and cam timing etc...ask Stu and Mark ...but imlearn as i go..i wont read books..LOL...cant be bothered.

 

Phil,

Have you checked for Det since removingthe bridge and putting the ignition back in?

 

The map was designed not to have that bridge and was 100% safe according to Karl...but i will check when i start holding it flat...but may be hard as i shit my self when it comes on boost especially in 3rd

 

Phil,

My chip done by Stu is also 100% safe but a crack of det in 4th gear at high boost meant Mark had to use the octane switch to restard the ignition. Since i have been using V-power though we have put the ignition back in Make sure you deffo do a det check mate

 

hold it against the brakes

 

...i am only running V-MAX and Karl took ignition out to prevent any cock ups .....Now you see how retarded i was/am

 

Good idea Nick, let the engine come under load whilst holding the car back on the brakes

 

I get people to do that when they are driving and im mapping, was a tip from Stu@MSD

 

..i always found it hard to do this with 450 + horses

 

not good for the brakes for too long, and can be dodgy in a rwd as the rears can spin up

 

The brakes are ok as an "assist", but you cant beat using a nice hill and 4th gear as well


I like mapping in 5th, but the mrs license doesnt

 

tricky to find in norfolk

 

you would have norfolking chance at all i should think

 

Mark was doing it in 2nd gear on mine, trying to listen for any boost leaks. Was great when he came off the brake. 33 psi straight through the rear wheels.

 

Rich. what you felt then (the sudden rush of extra power without a slow turbo style build up) is what you get with nitrous

 

Really? Excellent Is a good feeling wouldnt you agree Chip

 

I like both, i kind of enjoy the way a turbo surges the power in, but instant hit is cool too

big power N/A is also similar "just took my foot off the break" delivery too.