Stu or owners of MSD closed loop chips
11-09-2006, 04:49 PM
#41
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Originally Posted by gingeRS
Stu can you please move to london and set up a garage here so i can get you to insall my closed loop chip, as i thought it was plug and play, but it seems there is more too it. 
i know a good estate agent
i know a good estate agent
11-09-2006, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by the original
the best way to test the operation is if you can get hold of an oscilloscope, or lots of later Mot gas analysers have a lambda test function
measure the signal and it should look like mine, alternating from rich to weak around the stoich. point
measuring lambda and CO are not ideal as an exhaust blow will raise lambda and drop CO
which sun analyser was it , dga 1800 or 2500? was the reading you're talking about at the top or bottom of the screen?
cheers
Stu
measure the signal and it should look like mine, alternating from rich to weak around the stoich. point
measuring lambda and CO are not ideal as an exhaust blow will raise lambda and drop CO
which sun analyser was it , dga 1800 or 2500? was the reading you're talking about at the top or bottom of the screen?
cheers
Stu
11-09-2006, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
Originally Posted by trevCOSS
showed 4 ohms.
. I'll get my bitch Rich to help me change it tonight and see what happens to the voltage
11-09-2006, 07:22 PM
#44
4 ohm's is a lot i'm going to have to read the post's more carefully in future.I agree that this is a easy conversion but these cars are now getting old and wiring probs seem to be the norm
Hope the new wire sorts your problem out
god only knows how fustrating these faults can be..
11-09-2006, 07:49 PM
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Ok we now have altenator voltage 14.1v voltage in car 14v voltage at fuel pump 14v voltage at secs monitor 13.6v voltage at pin 20 14v so it seems that my secs monitor reads 0.4v low or my volt meter reads 0.4v high I'm hoping the SECS reads a bit low. Are these figures ok? all taken at idle with all electrics off. Also replaced the fans and re wired as mine causing a massive 1.2v drop all on there own
13-09-2006, 12:39 PM
#49
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After all this hassle I think you should be pretty clued up on this closed loop malarky Trev.......
...... which is handy for when I ask for help fitting one to mine! lol!
...... which is handy for when I ask for help fitting one to mine! lol!
13-09-2006, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Smit
When changing the wire from the battery to the alternator what type/thickness of wire would people recommend? Is there a certain Gauge which would be reccomended?
Being serious here as i think mine is fooked
Being serious here as i think mine is fooked
I used this to replace mine, Battery cable 25mm2, 9.7mm, 170A from here AES http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/68
13-09-2006, 08:34 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by trevCOSS
Originally Posted by the original
which sun analyser was it , dga 1800 or 2500? was the reading you're talking about at the top or bottom of the screen?
cheers
Stu
cheers
Stu
if they use that style of machine for Mot'ing cars VOSA will shut them down
13-09-2006, 11:54 PM
#53
Originally Posted by trevCOSS
Originally Posted by Smit
When changing the wire from the battery to the alternator what type/thickness of wire would people recommend? Is there a certain Gauge which would be reccomended?
Being serious here as i think mine is fooked
Being serious here as i think mine is fooked
I used this to replace mine, Battery cable 25mm2, 9.7mm, 170A from here AES http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/68
14-09-2006, 05:19 PM
#54
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Originally Posted by the original
Originally Posted by trevCOSS
Originally Posted by the original
which sun analyser was it , dga 1800 or 2500? was the reading you're talking about at the top or bottom of the screen?
cheers
Stu
cheers
Stu
if they use that style of machine for Mot'ing cars VOSA will shut them down
14-09-2006, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Smit
Originally Posted by trevCOSS
Originally Posted by Smit
When changing the wire from the battery to the alternator what type/thickness of wire would people recommend? Is there a certain Gauge which would be reccomended?
Being serious here as i think mine is fooked
Being serious here as i think mine is fooked
I used this to replace mine, Battery cable 25mm2, 9.7mm, 170A from here AES http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/68
14-09-2006, 07:32 PM
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Voltage problem is all sorted have a nice healthy 14v everywhere the secs reads a bit low but its all good, just need to get the mixture set again at 0.9% or less and it will be sorted.
14-09-2006, 07:42 PM
#58
Looked at mine today secs said 13.7 (saff) so thats ok,and mine was 0.7 and i did'nt bother tweaking it,should have while i was there havin MOT the mot man could not understand why it was sooooo low(surely u should have a cat he said to get it that low)!!!!!!!
Hope all is well now
the mot man could not understand why it was sooooo low(surely u should have a cat he said to get it that low)!!!!!!!Hope all is well now
14-09-2006, 08:49 PM
#59
Dont worry too much about your idle emissions as long as they are nice and legal fellas its whether it locks to closed loop on the move that is of most concern...
Some cars with various mods can struggle to attain sub 1% at idle smoothly but will still lock up perfectly on the road.
Some cars with various mods can struggle to attain sub 1% at idle smoothly but will still lock up perfectly on the road.
15-09-2006, 11:47 AM
#60
I guess mine dose as the autometer air/fuel gauge stay's in the middle at most times never rich like it used to be all the time
I know that this gauge is not very accurate but its a fair indication to whats happening.....
As for economy well i've done 234 miles and still on half a tank
Paul
all the time I know that this gauge is not very accurate but its a fair indication to whats happening.....
As for economy well i've done 234 miles and still on half a tank
Paul
16-09-2006, 02:35 PM
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Im removing the head on my car this weekend and thought I would look into the electrical side once the head is off.
Ive just measured the voltage and I get 12,5 volts with the engine off. With the engine on I get 13,5 volts at the battery and the same at the ECU, atleast according to the Pectel Monitor or does that just measure from where its hooked up? (ABS diagnose socket)
Is 13,5 volts ok?
Ive just measured the voltage and I get 12,5 volts with the engine off. With the engine on I get 13,5 volts at the battery and the same at the ECU, atleast according to the Pectel Monitor or does that just measure from where its hooked up? (ABS diagnose socket)
Is 13,5 volts ok?
16-09-2006, 04:48 PM
#64
Testing the future
Originally Posted by Andreas
Im removing the head on my car this weekend and thought I would look into the electrical side once the head is off.
Ive just measured the voltage and I get 12,5 volts with the engine off. With the engine on I get 13,5 volts at the battery and the same at the ECU, atleast according to the Pectel Monitor or does that just measure from where its hooked up? (ABS diagnose socket)
Is 13,5 volts ok?
Ive just measured the voltage and I get 12,5 volts with the engine off. With the engine on I get 13,5 volts at the battery and the same at the ECU, atleast according to the Pectel Monitor or does that just measure from where its hooked up? (ABS diagnose socket)
Is 13,5 volts ok?
16-09-2006, 05:04 PM
#65
Originally Posted by foreigneRS
pectel monitor is NOT connected to ABS diagnosis socket andreas. the abs loom is completely separate to the ECU loom where the ECU diagnosis socket is
16-09-2006, 05:06 PM
#66
Testing the future
really stu? never knew that. sorry andreas.
how does that work then? the ecu loom only connects to the vehicle loom through about 5 wires, none of which are the diagnostic port ones iirc (on a 2wd loom at least)
how does that work then? the ecu loom only connects to the vehicle loom through about 5 wires, none of which are the diagnostic port ones iirc (on a 2wd loom at least)
17-09-2006, 11:29 AM
#67
Testing the future
having thought about this, i know what you're both saying now andreas and stu. the pectel monitor is getting just power from the ABS diagnostic socket, and the datastream from the ECU diagnostic socket
andreas, that doesn't mean that the pectel monitor is reading the voltage from the ABS socket and converting it to digital to put on the display. the voltage that it does display is coming from a conversion to digital within the ecu that is sent to the monitor in the datastream.
andreas, that doesn't mean that the pectel monitor is reading the voltage from the ABS socket and converting it to digital to put on the display. the voltage that it does display is coming from a conversion to digital within the ecu that is sent to the monitor in the datastream.
17-09-2006, 12:52 PM
#69
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Originally Posted by foreigneRS
having thought about this, i know what you're both saying now andreas and Stu. the pectel monitor is getting just power from the ABS diagnostic socket, and the datastream from the ECU diagnostic socket
17-09-2006, 01:04 PM
#73
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Proof ? - Proof of what exactly. ????
And as for seeing you naked....the fact you offered shows some
wishfull thinking on your behalf and certainly not mine.
LOL
And as for seeing you naked....the fact you offered shows some
wishfull thinking on your behalf and certainly not mine.
LOL
17-09-2006, 03:41 PM
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I have a quick question whilst you knowlegable people are looking at the post. If I turn the co screw whilst there is no power to the ecu does it do anything? In Stus instructions it says to turn the screw 3 times in and out 1.5 turns. I was wondering how can he know where the screw was to start with but Im now thinking mabe the screw only has 3 turns of usable adjustment so by going in 3 you go past the bottom adjustment no matter where the screw was set to begin with then coming back 1.5 turns sets it bang in the middle if you see what I mean, so my question is do i need the car running when I move the screw for it to have an effect and if i turn it 3 turns clockwise then 1.5 turns back will this set it in the correct place no matter where it started from? or alternitively am I completely wrong and have no clue what im babbling on about?
17-09-2006, 03:58 PM
#75
Originally Posted by trevCOSS
I have a quick question whilst you knowlegable people are looking at the post. If I turn the co screw whilst there is no power to the ecu does it do anything? In Stus instructions it says to turn the screw 3 times in and out 1.5 turns. I was wondering how can he know where the screw was to start with but Im now thinking mabe the screw only has 3 turns of usable adjustment so by going in 3 you go past the bottom adjustment no matter where the screw was set to begin with
23-09-2006, 04:24 PM
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now that I have the voltage problem all sorted and changed the lambda sensor as well I took the car back this morning to set the co again, thought I would try just screwing in 3 out 1.5 and see what I got, was about 4-5% co on idle until it hit 70 degrees then it bingo co dropped to 0.8% and the lambda to 1.013, happy with that, cars driving very well just got to sort out the boost as its only 19psi at the moment (I think my actuator is tired) Thanks for the help Stu
24-09-2006, 02:55 PM
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Boost all set 25.9psi droping to 23, coil pack next 
Richie wont be a problem, I can hear his gearbox complaning whilst next to him in my car with the windows up.
Richie wont be a problem, I can hear his gearbox complaning whilst next to him in my car with the windows up.