plynchy

Do you make the actuator rod longer or shorter to increase the boost pressure?

Anonymous

Neither LOL

Set pre-load then adjust the bleed

s1rscustom

made mine shorter

Roosie

iTrader: (8)

make it shorter mate

plynchy

Don't have a bleed valve
Have just come in from garage after fitting my repaired turbo after a 12 hour dayshift,only boosting to 0.8 instead of 1 bar. Bit pissed of now.

wimwerf

make it shorter

Anonymous

U don't need a bleed vavle LOL

Just need an amal vavle to adjust the bleed

plynchy

Enlighten me...didn't know it had any adjustment on it!
Driven into work an hour ago,now boosting at .8 to .9 after i shortened the actuator rod by apprx 4mm last night. Need it sorting before Saturday!

Anonymous

place a restrictor in the middle hole, "C"

The smaller the hole the more boost you will run.

My old amal valve set up ran a cut off welding tip in place to make it run 36 psi

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

Please note that restricting the compressor port will exagerate the peak boost point. Far better to open the return port substantially first of all.

Anonymous

Agreed stu

This was going on no restrictors in all 3

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

I figured you were so thought it best to clarify before some goon tries this without a boost gauge just to see what happens

CossieRich

iTrader: (1)

Anonymous

30psi and bang

My advice is done @ owners own risk or stupidity



Try 2.5mm to 3mm in "c"

plynchy

So rather than fucking around with the amal valve,can i not just alter the actuator?? Seems easier. I have no desire to run my engine at 4 billion psi,15 will do ta!

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

If your trying to run actuator load alone you will find that :

A) You may never reach the figure you want.
B) In 5th gear she may melt the engine.

Best do it properly eh?

Anonymous

simple answer then, buy a bleed valve LOL

In car adjustable fun LOL

plynchy

Here lies my problem,had turbo wastegate repaired yesterday as it wasn't seating properly. Wastegate rod which goes thru the housing was removed to tack bearing sleeve from the inside as this had moved slightly,so the actuator connector on the outside has been welded back on,at(i suspect) a very slightly different angle to what it was originally. I'm guessing tis is why my boost figure has dropped slightly,this is why i figure altering the actuator rod slightly will return it to the original boost setting eventually(trial and error i know). Can't get it set anywhere"officially" before Saturday cos i'm on 12 hour days! Any advice more than welcome.

Neil S

iTrader: (1)

Run it up in 4th to check the boost levels.

Shorten the rod half a turn at a time, until you are holding a bar, if thats what it used to run.

There are better ways to set boost up, involving bleed valves etc, but this is best left to the pro's IMO.

Having said that, you would probably be safer to leave it and just run it at 0.8 until you get someone to look at it



Neil.

Rick

Explain pls Stu

Anonymous

More load = more boost usually.

Rick

yea i know, but how does bleeding away boost from the actuator help not melt ur engine? Purely because an actuator alone setup holds boost better than a bleed valve setup?

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

Easy mate,
In situations where folk are running more and more load on teh actuator by going shorter and shorter, you often finmd that under concentrated load when the wastegate is asked to bypass far more volume of air per second.. IE.. 5K in 5th.. the gate will no longer open wide enough as youve removed all its travel capability.

In this scenario, the boost will start to climb higher and higher as the revs go up and up simply because if teh gate doesnt open enough, then the extra air will be FORCED to flow through the scroll into teh turbine and of course spin it harder. This is only normally noticeable in 4th and 5th at high RPM.

Hope this helps... be carefull out there kids

Anonymous

I wish that happened on my t34

Sadly it still tails off....

T4 required

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

Obviously when we have a well designed engine that consumes more air than our turbo can give it, this boost rise wont happen... lol **





** = It could still melt if it wasnt accounted for in the map and you caused it by meddling with your rod

Anonymous

mmmmmm

LOL

i aint touched my rod tis a bit green

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

Where's Rick Gone...

Rick

I'm here

Get u now - u mean like people winding std actuators too run 22psi lol

I dont think that my engine has a problem with six whole psi

Cheers Stu.

plynchy

Have just spoken to the guy who repaired the turbo,(has done thousands of them),and he has confirmed what i suspected,that the position of the actuator attachment in relation to the wastegate has probably altered,hence the drop in boost on the actuators current setting. Looking at the above posts i seem to have a similar trait of tailing off at high rpm rather than the boost increasing,will monitor this VERY closely.
If you see me kicking shit out of the car on Saturday you know why!

Thanks chaps.

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

Indeed.. roflol