Taz

Following on from Steves thread yesterday regarding steering angles on Sierras, It reminded me of a question that has been in my mind for some time.

For my sins I used to own a Scooby (yeuch hated it apart from handling and looks) and it is a well known fact there are published settings to which the suspension is set to giving a good base for handling. I am sure they also shim the steering rack as well to sharpen ( i think) the steering.

Are there any such settings to set up a 4x4 saff and if so what are they.

If not does anyone have any guidelines to which I should stick?

This could be for any saff but mine is a K plate 4x4 running closed loop stage 3 from Stu , deflex bushes, Koni coilovers and after this weekend 18" comps with Yokies.

Discussion/help will be enjoyed and appreciated.

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

It depends on how the car is used (and where - e.g. mainly motorways / country roads / track).

A reasonable compromise would be:

Front:
Camber: 1.5° neg
Toe: 2mm toe-in (overall)
Caster: 3°30'

Rear: 1.5° neg
Toe: 2-3mm toe-in (overall)

Bearing in mind the rear is not adjustable, so has to be done with shims or slotting the holes and the welding washers to secure it in the correct position.

Mine is used mainly on track, so I have very aggressive camber settings on it....

Taz

Thanks Mike for your quick reply.

My car is used for going to work occasionally and I hope to get it on track soon. When going to work I have some twisty bits which are bumpy and then the boring motorway bit. I tend to enjoy the twistys and then relax on the straight bits. As for track, my local is Knockhill so not fast corners really.

When doing the rear beam, would I have to elongate the holes where the a arms meet the beam? The brackets in the middle of the car so I can get the adjustment required?

Thanks again

Graham

Stavros

Taz, welcome to the world of cossies, a world where suspension settings purely mean just wind the coilovers down till it looks coolest and turn the hardness right up

Luckily Mike is someone who knows what the crack is and will help

Mike- Whats your camber? A lot more than the 1.5deg you listed there i guess?

Taz

afpmsl

The worrying thing is you are very correct. We all want stage this uprated that but very few I dont mean everyone) people think about the settings on the suspension. I am about to raise my coilovers as they were left on the settings from Mr Sharps car (Escos) and on my saff it is too low at the back. I will also need to do the front to allow the 18" comps to fit. Once this is done I am going to get the aligment done on a laser tracking machine locally, hence the settings. I also think a strut brace is a must on saffs too, which I am about to get, especially on coilovers!!!!

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

These settings are what I would call "Fast Road". I would not recommend you doing the slotting of the mounting points unless you know what you're doing....

As to my settings, I run 3° neg on the front and 2° 45' on the rear.

I have to concur about the current trend for coil-overs, which invariably make the car handle like shit, because the spring / damper rates are a complete mis-match.

I don't think you can go far wrong with Konis and Ahmed's springs for a road car.

gingeRS

is it worth getting my coilovers checked then?

bought the car and havent even thought about this yet, car will be booked in for the 'hammer arch mod' at SCC sometime in the near future.

have heard good things about zoo motorsport when it comes to setting suspsension geometry, anyone know where they are based????

may get them to do the above camber angles and toe in you suggested

Jim Galbally

mike, do you know how much a set of konis with the springs are? i'm VERY tempted to chuck this gaz shit in the bin and get something tried and tested...

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

If the are cheap ones, just bin them or sell them on Ebay

Price is on my website . I did try and tell you

Jim Galbally

£160quid for a set of springs my mate's ones were -60mm on his nova and they were only 30quid

how about a part-ex on my gaz stuff :P you can sell it on to some other ill-educated replica driver

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

Jim,
They're no more expensive than Eibachs or the like .

THIS is where you keep going wrong, you SHOULD buy the best straight off and then fit and forget. These springs have been specially wound / correct poundage to MATCH the Konis.

Next you'll be buying Konis and some cheap springs and then moaning that they don't handle as well as you thought and then having to buy the correct springs . This is why it always costs people like you twice as much! You THINK you're making a saving and then realise you haven't really got what you wanted .

gingeRS

so are mine any good

they are AVO's?

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

Depends what springs you have with them, but in a word - no. Make the car HORRIBLE to drive on the road unless the spring rates are softened up.

gingeRS

i have no idea what springs etc, its not that harsh, bit bumpy handles well though. only probelm is the clearance which apparently is sorted with a big hammer?

Jim Galbally

mike i was joking, the -60mm and nova bit gave it away

i get my car back from the menders on tuesday, if it turns out my rear shocks are fucked (i think they are) then ill be on the phone ordering up the kit

damn expensive car still got the fookin gearbox to fix

CozzyBrom

tell me ya ride hieght i tell you some around settings
but its never going to be good untill u do the beam
thats not a plug just way the rear beam moves in its arc as standard is shite

JohnnyB

whats the matter with you Gearbox Jim?

Jim Galbally

johhnyB, when i threw a rod, it hit the starter motor and cracked the bellhousing the starter doesnt locate properly

plus the release bearing on the clutch is noise (cossie clutches in V6s for you!) and there's no bearing fitted (spigot bearing or thrust bearing or whatever its called)