Matt

bored shitless so just been out playing in the ornament, pulled up to standstill on slip road entrance to bypass, full bore launch, tyre smoke a plenty in 1st (could have been slipping also, cant tell), shift to second and it slips like crazy, pootled along for a bit, drop to 3rd at 70, slips like crazy

i thought it was doing this a few weeks ago but it seemed to have stopped, right upto launching it today, was also fine today up until then, had already hammered away from some ice man shaded lad in a green r plate scoob with the mandatory wrc wannbe stickers on

oh and it never slipped at all before the diff and box was changed, surely that cant effect it? flywheel and plate looked fine when i ut the box it, albeit stuck to the cover as it hadnt turned a wheel in about 9 months saved lining it up at least lol

clutch has done approx 5k, uses an ap cover, car has about 380lb/ft @ 3500rpm @ 2 bar boost

COMEDY DAN

I have seen padle clutches last 4 or 5 goes at Pod and thats it, and I have seen them last 20,000 miles.

It all depends on how you treat them and how much Torque your chariot has matey.

Its like saying, how long will my new trainers stay white and fresh, and not wear out.

Anonymous

I agree with dan, its very dependant on use, 5K miles doesnt sound especially unusual for a paddle clutch used fairly hard in a road car.

Matt

the above post tells you the torque and also how i use the car lol
also the fact i had to replace the diff and box must tell you summat too

thought they were up to more than this

COMEDY DAN

Sounds about right to me.

With nearly 400lb/ft it is about what to expect.

Turn the boost down and it will last longer, but then NO fun..

catch 22 brother.................

AndyGranger

The friction linings sound like they,ve gone hard with it being stood so long

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

If it's not hydraulic'd then they don't last long, as the cable stretches and the clutch drags wearing it out. Moving away from a cable operated clutch will triple the life of the paddle, thus paying for the conversion INSTANTLY .

Anonymous

Not if you replace the cable reguarly, they dont stretch *that* quickly

You make it sounds like as soon as you fit a new clutch and new cable it will just stretch by a consdierable amount immediately, thats just not the case at all.


I do think hydraulic is a good idea, but i think you are exagerating the downside of the cable one somewhat TBH.

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

If people replaced the cable everytime they replaced the clutch, it wouldn't be so much of an issue. Invariably people leave the original item in and then wonder why they have issues .

Matt

costs for a hydraulic clutch please michael

Anonymous

So why not say
"remember when replacing the clutch with a heavier duty item its best to use a new cable if you are still on a cable operated clutch"

rather than implying that the only way to solve it is to go hydraulic?

Stavros

My clutch cable used to snap so fucking often it was never an issue, cable was alwaysreplaced more times than clutches were

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

Because after a few thousand miles, the cable WILL start to stretch, the clutch WILL start to drag and the life WILL be reduced because of it . Also, it isn't the only issue, the wanky ratchet doesn't self adjust properly on cars with paddle clucthes so it is a self perpetuating problem. Removing all this by changing to hydraulic arrangement cures the drag problems INSTANTLY, which enhances the life of the clutch dramtically enought to warrent the expense. The peddle feel is also improved by a considerable margin, which makes it easier to drive / launch. There are NO downsides .

Matt,
Prices are on my website .

Anonymous

Only if the person who owns it WILL be too stupid to notice if the cable starts to have problem and doesnt remedy it.

Hydrualics also have problems, as eventually the master cylinder WILL leak, the slave cylinder WILL leak and the clutch WILL drag if its not maintained properly.

I admit the service interval on the seals on the hydraluic etc are certainly higher than on the cable, but its still not a solution that never needs to be looked at ever again like you are implying.

xr4x4rs

iTrader: (5)

my alcon lasted around 8k

the car got launched everywhere i went and used to get the shit kicked out of it

in the end it scraped my flywheel

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

Chip,
You're talking shit. The standard cables (as have been posted) are under such extreme tension from the paddle clutches that they can sometimes break with in a matter of a thousand miles (so it doesn't take a genius to work out how quickly they can stretch if they can break that quickly ).

My hydraulic clutch has been on the car for 35,000 miles without ANY problems or issues that you state. Basically the standard cable / ratchet mechanism is not up to the job of a paddle clutch - FACT. There can be no argument on that. You can think what you like / post what you like, it won't change the FACTS .

If you don't switch to a hydraulic set up - you WILL have problems / issues sooner or later - there is no disputing that. The best case scenario is a HUGE reduction in clutch life, the worse is continually breaking cables as well as the reduction in clutch life .

Anonymous

Mike, if you have had those sort of problems with clutch cables maybe you were fitting them wrong.
They do wear, but to imply they all do it in 1000 miles is a nonsense, mine hasnt snapped in several thousands miles of mainly town driving and doesnt drag either, thats with loads of operations of the clutch with exactly that clutch setup.

Im not saying they dont wear quicker than on a standard clutch as obvioulsy they do, but they arent *that* bad

Mike Rainbird

iTrader: (3)

Chip,
Other than them lasting no longer than 6-8k in my Sapphire, I never had one break either (cable replace EVERY time). However, I did get drag issues ALL the time (especially when hot) and it would sometimes be difficult to engage first gear.

Also, on both the Sierra and Escort, with the original arrangement, the clutch could get stuck to the flywheel and wouldn't disengage properly if yoused aggressively (you would have to physically flick the peddle back up with your foot, which sometimes was or wasn't enough to release it from flywheel). Rod actually lost a TOTB event because of this .

Despite this, I know of LOTS of people who have had cables breaking continuously (poor old Lenny being the most famous example), as well as ratchets snapping. These were all professionally fitted as well .

In my opinion, it just isn't worth the hassle of relying on the crappy cable set-up, when the cure PAYS FOR ITSELF by the amount of extra life it gives the clutch. I cannot see ANY reason for keeping the OE set up....

Rene

not to piss on anybody's bonfire here but my std cable lasted 18k with the ap 4 paddle clutch and ap heavy duty cover

Anonymous

I do agree though that hydraulic is superior, im not arguing against it, especially not on a trackday car, but i just feel for road use it isnt the big issue that you are making out with the standard cable.

Ive actually got a hydraulic on my nova, so im not against them, but with age they DO need maintainace, the fact your hasnt (but then you never had a cable snap either) doesnt imply that they will last forever, all hydraluic clutches eventually need rebuilds and new cylinders at both ends.

Anonymous

Indeed, this is what im saying, it DOES wear out, but if its not a trackday car, its unlilkely to do so as quickly as mike was (before he started mentioning his own 8K mile ones) implying.

Rene

the same cable was on the car as well before i had the egine rebuild so i dont exactly know how long it was on the car before but i reckon at least another 18k miles on a standard clutch and cover

Lambchop

iTrader: (1)

hmmmm i sometimes struggle with first but its rare. probably when ive been out for a burn. wondered why the fuck it happened. so clutch cable perhaps?

Matt

mike, so martin does it all then? not that i ever thought for a minute your fairy liquid hands would ever be getting dirty

R4N SS

iTrader: (6)

my alcon 6 paddle clutch has done fine in the 2 or 3 years its been in the car and that includes launches and 2 trackdays.

My clutch cable has snapped twice however so I have learnt its always useful to keep a spare

AndyR1

iTrader: (1)

used both alcon 6 paddle and the newer ap 6 paddle and both have only lasted 2.5k to 3k , have never had cable snap ,changed cable every time with clutch, have had trouble with wratchet before now , i drive my motor very hard ,track, drag ,road, new build every 10 k if it lasted that long

Lambchop

iTrader: (1)

says you

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

totally agree

but use the AP 6 paddle clutch instead hydraulic is the way to go done that ages ago

marco polo

iTrader: (1)

thats telling you , you have been warned

RichardPON

I put in 3 Alcons over the life of my cossie.............. and 6 clutch cables

The heat from the turbo can also be a factor, especially where people negelct to run the heatshield etc.....

costina

iTrader: (1)

Is your pedal stiff ?
when i got my saff 3 years ago it came a new clutch (not fitted)
Having read through history found it had a new one fitted

anyway fitted a new cable job done !!! 13 k still not slipping

This i have found with many cossie's ive had or delt with.