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Car is too low to be tracked:( what can i do?

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Old 21-05-2006, 11:53 AM
  #41  
2.0Si
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Yeah thats what i thought its seriously toeing out and both wheels seem to be fighting each other, im going this way im going that way grrr

Its just funny, ive never had the tracking done in the year ive owned it and its always had a tendency to munch the inside of the tyres but it just seems odd all of a sudden how its got like it has, is this because ive fitted new lower arms do you reckon?

Im from Rugby, just down the A45 from Coventry.

The power steering rack is leaking from underneath somewhere, but its not major, it takes around 1 -2 weeks for the fluid in the resovoir to drop below maximum level.
Old 21-05-2006, 12:25 PM
  #42  
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that why your tracking is all ove teh place

anytime you do suspension work like arms, shocks, springs,

always have your tracking checked as the slightest thing can make a difference

there wil be places that can do it

try sumwhere local if not then give brom a ring but if it is going far id have it towed there i wouldnt drive it
Old 21-05-2006, 12:56 PM
  #43  
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i defintely wouldn't drive it with tyres that worn. that's a serious fine and points

if it's so bad that you can see that the wheels are majorly toe-ing out, why don't you just roughly adjust it by eye or as mentioned with a piece of string? you obviously won't get it spot on, but it'll be much better and would at least allow you to put more tyres on and get it somewhere to have it done.

don't know how to do it? the ends of the steering rack are on threads so that you wind them on or off to adjust the toe setting. i think on a fiesta that the steering rack connects to the steering arms on the hub at the back? if so, winding the rod end on and shortening the rod will move the back of the wheel in towards the car and make the front go out more, and vice versa. if you have toe out, i.e. the fronts of the tyres are further apart than the rear of the tyres, then you need to unwind the rod ends to push the backs further apart, and the fronts closer together. do that with a piece of string and set them paralel for now until you get them properly adjusted.

the reason -35mm springs have you sitting so low is that the 2 litre engine is heavier, so it's compressing the springs more
Old 21-05-2006, 01:26 PM
  #44  
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Im a bit dumb, the track rod ends go into the hubs, thereis a nut on the end, if i put a spanner on it, i think they are 19mm, the nut is right on the end

Pics:









The nut seems right on the end so it can only go one way as if to undo it ?

How do i adjust it? and where do i put the string?
Old 21-05-2006, 01:42 PM
  #45  
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give us a minute and i'll label it up for you
Old 21-05-2006, 01:43 PM
  #46  
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Undo the locknut.

Then put a spanner or mole grips on teh steering arm itslef (The threaded bar) and rotate that.

When done, redo the locknut.
Old 21-05-2006, 01:45 PM
  #47  
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ok that nut tahts on teh trac rod end

you need to undo it

then get sum mole grips on the rack arm before the thred and turn either clockwise or anti clockwise

have your wheels straight and you swill see the wheels move in and out wards

you need both wheels turn ing in so they are straight
Old 21-05-2006, 01:50 PM
  #48  
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right. you need to undo the locknut. i would wind it all the way along the length of the thread on the tie rod a couple of times to clean up the thread cos it looks like it's in a right state.

when the thread is clean, you can wind the tie rod into the tie rod end to pull the wheel in, or wind it out to push it out. when you're happy with the position, tighten the locknut again.

do this in equal amounts both sides so that your steering wheel stays in the straight ahead position. you won't be able to get it spot on, but you should be able to improve it.

tip, you need a bloody good pair of mole grips or stilsons to hold the tie rod
Old 21-05-2006, 01:52 PM
  #49  
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oh yeah, and put the string between the 2 wheel rims at the forward most points and the rearward most points
Old 21-05-2006, 02:17 PM
  #50  
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Nice one, just need to go steel another wheel with a tyre worth driving on off my mate !


Nice one, very much appreciated !
Old 21-05-2006, 02:48 PM
  #51  
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i charge£ 40 a hr
sometimes it can take up to 2 hr to do camber trackin set up and true the steering wheel up
most drive in drive out do charge less but the wheel is never trully straight unless by luck
i send customer around the block and he drives back i re measure everthing i wont stop until the wheel is dead true it can ages to get right
simple
Old 21-05-2006, 03:05 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by foreigneRS
Track rod and track rod ends!

A tie rod is a completely different thing and part of the suspension and not steering!
Old 21-05-2006, 03:41 PM
  #53  
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DazC you're right Daz
Old 21-05-2006, 07:53 PM
  #54  
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Well spent around an hour with it, was a complete ffing disaster, got rid of it toeing out too far, now the steering is super sensitive and light and trys to full lock itself the moment i go the slightest turn to the left almost threw me into the kerb on a test drive, sodding thing.

Going to take it to a garage tommorow, thanks all for your help and support
Old 22-05-2006, 12:17 AM
  #55  
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Well ive done it and after an hour the results"

Brake and it throws you to the right, accelerate again and it throws you to the left

Then when your casually driving, hit a bump in the road and it wil rock to one side..

Think ive toed them in too much...

Need a new rack so its pointless getting it done properly until ive replaced the leaky rack as the seals are fucked on mine ( power steering rack )
Old 22-05-2006, 12:45 AM
  #56  
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thats bad mate
Old 22-05-2006, 11:25 AM
  #57  
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Why has it got different colour wings on?? Has it been in a major frontender or were they just rusty?
Old 22-05-2006, 11:37 AM
  #58  
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You have checked the engine/gearbox mounts as well? as these can cause a car to launch all over the place if there really fooked
Old 22-05-2006, 03:05 PM
  #59  
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Well well set the tracking to the best i could, got in for a test drive, got my brother hanging out the passenger window and i was hanging out the drivers window, booted it down the road, hung out the window and braked and watched the wheels, the passenger side wheel didnt move but the drivers one it tips right out like ' \ ' and this is causing the car to fling itself about !

The lower arms are brand new, they are 2 weeks old ! The roll bar links are about a month old !

What the hell is wrong with it !
Old 22-05-2006, 03:13 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by BROM@ZOO
i charge£ 40 a hr
sometimes it can take up to 2 hr to do camber trackin set up and true the steering wheel up
most drive in drive out do charge less but the wheel is never trully straight unless by luck
i send customer around the block and he drives back i re measure everthing i wont stop until the wheel is dead true it can ages to get right
simple
Thats what teh big fella did with mine.. cars never tracked as well.
Old 22-05-2006, 03:34 PM
  #61  
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just a small suggestion.. have you checked the hub pinch bolts are still tight, since doing the swap?

edit: or any bolts undone for swap? been caught out myself before.
Old 22-05-2006, 05:36 PM
  #62  
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Everything appears done up as it should be nothing appears broken.

It really bends itself out though, its either got to be the top rubber mount on the shock in the turret, or the steering rack
Old 22-05-2006, 09:00 PM
  #63  
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Bah, im 90% sure ive solved it, the top mount on the drivers side! the nut under the retaining strut top cap was unwound right to the top, this has allowed movement int he strut and fucked the top rubber mount as a result !

gettin another tommorow and hopefully its fixed !
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