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WONT START FOR TOFFEE'\*$

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Old 19-05-2006, 06:34 PM
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The Sludge
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Default WONT START FOR TOFFEE'\*$

where on earth do i start eh? (series 2 by the way)

Yesterday me car when being turned off , would not restart and i put it down to the starter motor. Luckily i took another battery and she started.

So today i thought i would just check the alternator was all ok. I tightened it all up, started the car and was fine. I did 5oo yards before BANG POP the car cut out

I ripped off the alternator as it was fried, and then me mate came around who duly helped me fit another alternator which came of his car

Did a few miles and broke down again. 30 minutes later car still wouldnt start and then a mechanic got his booster pack out to help me. Car started.

I then got as far as about 5 miles (which was then 5 miles away from my house) and again the car cut out.

Called AA, i forgot to renew me membership so i am not covered Luckily me other mate only works half a day on Fridays, so i called him. 20 minutes later he comes to rescue me with another battery. I then travel home and all is ok, turns engine off, does not restart.

As it happens i have a big mother fooker heavy duty 1.8 diesel starter and i fitted that along with a mate who stayed to help me out.

I run it to working temp, gave it a run, sounds better. Turns engine off then doesnt start

WHY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Please help me
Old 19-05-2006, 06:37 PM
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fook knows
Old 19-05-2006, 06:45 PM
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mine did this years ago - no heat shield between starter motor and turbo. you are cooking the motor !
Old 19-05-2006, 06:56 PM
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Bad earth from chassis to engine.....this would cause it not to charge properly and when hot earth is worse so would take more to start it.......?????????

Had this happen on one of my RS Turbo's
Old 19-05-2006, 07:00 PM
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check the wiring from alternator to starter motor aswell as this could be fried

does sound like a charging issue so check all main batt cables and earth
Old 20-05-2006, 12:53 AM
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Had 6 RS turbos and all sufered the same fault. The starter is getting cooked by the turbo. Series 2's, Ford do a clip on heat sheild, but the Series 1 you have to make you own.
Old 20-05-2006, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Ian3dr
Had 6 RS turbos and all sufered the same fault. The starter is getting cooked by the turbo. Series 2's, Ford do a clip on heat sheild, but the Series 1 you have to make you own.
What he says lol
I've had exactly that happen on my series 1
Old 20-05-2006, 07:02 AM
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Stu @ M Developments
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I think you are all jumping the gunm a bit here folks....

The car is stopping first, before it wont restart, that isnt indicative of the starter motor.

When its stopped and wont start, does the motor actually turn over when you engage the key?

May well have 2 seperate problem here...
Old 20-05-2006, 08:08 AM
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Up with Stu.
If you dont have a heat shield for the turbo this will not doubt upset the starter.
Loads of things you can do. I cured mine with heat wrap on starter motor and downpipe and all was ok.
The chap who bought the car off me went another step and got a slim line starter off of a Zetec.

But cutting out?? Could be loads of things but the fact it seems to be restarting afterwards with booster packs. I would be cheking Earths/Voltages from Alternator and at the battery.
Old 20-05-2006, 09:10 AM
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had the same problem on mine and it was the clifford alarm/imobiliser giving up.... just another thought if uve got one

Matt
Old 20-05-2006, 09:14 AM
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The Sludge
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Originally Posted by Stu @ M Developments
When its stopped and wont start, does the motor actually turn over when you engage the key?
No it doesnt Stu. Just silence. Sometimes ONE short click.


Old 20-05-2006, 09:15 AM
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id say starter now then

sounds like its fried mate

have you tried a different starter?
Old 20-05-2006, 09:16 AM
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yep thats a cooked start motor, starter motor leg is getting stuck due to heat.

unsure off the stalling when hot bit.
Old 20-05-2006, 09:17 AM
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The Sludge
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Originally Posted by xr4x4rs
id say starter now then

sounds like its fried mate

have you tried a different starter?
yes fitted a 1.8 diesel starter last night. Started her up, did a run around the block, left it to idle. Turned her off. Wouldnt start.

at 0935 this morning, i started her no problem
Old 20-05-2006, 09:18 AM
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The Sludge
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Thing is if it is fried why isnt the battery charging. ??

I peeled away some black tape where there are 3 connections. I will take a pic and post it in 5 mins if thats easier
Old 20-05-2006, 09:29 AM
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The Sludge
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right, now all the tape is off and stuff, the blue wire is now exposed and not attatched to one of the connectors and is now hanging lose from the main loom under the radiator.

Where does that go?



The cable from the alternator to the starter has 2 red cables and a black one. The black one is now disconnected from the connector and is now hanging loose

Where does that go?



Other than that it appears ok.



**last night tho there still was no battery light on start up coming on in the dash**
Old 20-05-2006, 09:50 AM
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theres your problem its not charging

if that blue wire is disconnected it tells the alternator not to charge

other words u need that blue wire connected as this is your bat light aswell

basically its a live off your alternator to starter motor

starter to battery

the blue wire will have a connecter somewhere by the starteron the cross member think it comes with teh crank wire for the starter

also that black wire u pictured id say should be blue lol
Old 20-05-2006, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by xr4x4rs
theres your problem its not charging

if that blue wire is disconnected it tells the alternator not to charge

other words u need that blue wire connected as this is your bat light aswell

basically its a live off your alternator to starter motor

starter to battery

the blue wire will have a connecter somewhere by the starteron the cross member think it comes with the crank wire for the starter

also that black wire u pictured id say should be blue lol
That doesn't make much sense really.

The blue wire connects to the main loom that runs across the cross member and is usually a bullet connector. This blue wire earths the battery warning light when the alternator isn't charging. It is also needed to "excite" the windings in the alternator to make it charge.

You should have a red or a pair of red wires or even a pair joined into a single wire between the starter main battery feed and the alternator main battery feed.

I can't really tell much from those pictures to be honest!!

Try moving the camera back a bit and taking some more pictures.
Old 20-05-2006, 10:01 AM
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sorry to early in morning and havnt sept plus got shit loads going on lol

bascially i was told that if you had no battery light the alternator wouldnt charge

as his battery light wire is broke ( blue wire) its not charging

in the pics above the red wires look correct but what he says about the black wire i rekon its the blue other half of the blue wire

if he connects that back up together he will have a batt light and the car should be ok again id say
Old 20-05-2006, 10:10 AM
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The Sludge
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Originally Posted by xr4x4rs
in the pics above the red wires look correct but what he says about the black wire i rekon its the blue other half of the blue wire

if he connects that back up together he will have a batt light and the car should be ok again id say
i have indeed connected these 2 together and theres still no battery light, even when the bulb in the dials have been changed

the sound of the engine note also does not change when the 2 wires are put together, like i would have expected them to be when charging
Old 20-05-2006, 10:13 AM
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It should be a blue wire within the Ford main loom too.

Get a test lamp, clip one end to the engine block and the other end to the black wire. If the battery warning light glows then thats the wire. It will also mean that there is a fault with the alternator or connection if you connect that to the blue and it still doesn't light up...
Old 20-05-2006, 10:16 AM
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as above

earth teh blue wire out if you have a batt light then that needs to go to the alternator, so there is a problem in teh alternator loom if the batt light doesnt come on then theres a problem in the main loom
Old 20-05-2006, 10:25 AM
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The Sludge
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Originally Posted by DazC
It should be a blue wire within the Ford main loom too.

Get a test lamp, clip one end to the engine block and the other end to the black wire. .

done that and me bulb doesnt light up. so am i right in thinking that its this cable from the alternator to the starter thats at fault then now?
Old 20-05-2006, 10:30 AM
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have you tried earthing the blue wire out of main loom

to see if your batt light comes on

im almost 100% sure it will
Old 20-05-2006, 10:31 AM
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The alternator will charge without the batt light, my bulb for it has popped and I can't be arsed to get the clocks out to replace it but I still see 14v on my turbo timer, I just have to blip the throttle when I start it to get the alternator to kick in...
Old 20-05-2006, 10:44 AM
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do you have a multimeter?
Old 20-05-2006, 10:46 AM
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The Sludge
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Originally Posted by xr4x4rs
have you tried earthing the blue wire out of main loom

to see if your batt light comes on

im almost 100% sure it will
blue to black yes?

then

wire from same join to earth?

if so theres no light still and no power to the test bulb

wiring is not me strongest point lo
Old 20-05-2006, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Galbally
do you have a multimeter?
no unfortunatley
Old 20-05-2006, 10:56 AM
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go and buy one from halfords, as you cant diagnose shit without one (ps you'll have to walk to halfords, as your car doesn't work )

1st test before anything else, check if the alt is actually charging or not
Old 20-05-2006, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim Galbally
go and buy one from halfords, as you cant diagnose shit without one (ps you'll have to walk to halfords, as your car doesn't work )

:
thats great thanks

its only 6 miles away

i have called me mate and he is bringing one around shortly
Old 20-05-2006, 11:43 AM
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ok

where you joined the black and blue wire together

split them up again

the blue wire that is coming out of main car loom by rad just earth it anywhere

turn igntion on your bat light should come on, if it doesnt then theres a break in that wire somewhere, if it does then theres a problem with that black wire

if you get a batt light just run a new wire from the blue wire to the alternator on the push on fitting
Old 20-05-2006, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by xr4x4rs
ok


the blue wire that is coming out of main car loom by rad just earth it anywhere
done that and nolight at all has come on. Guess i had better strip back the tape a bit more then, unless theres a way of bypassing it?
Old 20-05-2006, 11:56 AM
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now your going to need a multimeter

basically do a continuity test to see where the break is in that wire

Old 20-05-2006, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by xr4x4rs
now your going to need a multimeter

basically do a continuity test to see where the break is in that wire

ok cheers for all your help and input. Whilst i am waiting for me mate to arrrive, id better open a stella seeing as its lunchtime
Old 20-05-2006, 12:45 PM
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on a different note,does your car now have quads and open mouth bumper,with chrome bumper inserts?? saw a S2 yesterday when i was in Wolverhampton
Old 20-05-2006, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by bud-weis
on a different note,does your car now have quads and open mouth bumper,with chrome bumper inserts?? saw a S2 yesterday when i was in Wolverhampton
thats me dude
Old 20-05-2006, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Wes RS
The alternator will charge without the batt light, my bulb for it has popped and I can't be arsed to get the clocks out to replace it but I still see 14v on my turbo timer, I just have to blip the throttle when I start it to get the alternator to kick in...
You mean your alternator will charge without the light...

Old Ford alternators WILL NOT charge if the warning light does not work!

Right. On the back of the dash clocks there is 2 long plugs. One will have a blue wire in it. This blue wire runs down with the main loom all the way to the front cross member and then connects to the alternator.

Basically what happens is when you turn on the ignition, you send power to one side of the battery light bulb. The power flows through the bulb and down to the alternator and earths through the alternator. When the alternator starts charging, the voltage increases inside the alternator to the point where it equalises and the bulb loses it's earth. The Alternator needs this signal from the battery warning light to excite it's windings (basically switch it on).

The black wire is a mystery so forget that for now.
Old 20-05-2006, 03:59 PM
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i think the black wire is the blue wire if you know what i mean

basically its got hot and crisped to black

does this black wire just run with the alternator power wires?

if so thats your charge light wire
Old 20-05-2006, 09:55 PM
  #39  
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right i have just got back in from outside

been and got another alternator borrowed off a mate. The car turned over and no battery light

I drove down the road with lights on and shit, the battery light came on. So it now appears the alternator is not charging the battery even tho this is the 3rd alternator

any ideas now??

Beacuse at least now i can work on the theory that the blue wire works (and yes the leads have now been changed from the alt to starter so its now blue to blue)


so i guess and according to me mate that thers an issues between battery and alt. If so what?
Old 21-05-2006, 09:36 AM
  #40  
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look, get a multimeter across the battery terminals and find out exactly what its doing, until you do that youre just guessing


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