the same reasons all engine dont have steel billet internals and perfectly ported heads

COSTS

 

Yep your getting there, oil pressure is measured by resistance not flow. And flow is what is important.

Yes you need good oil pressure but it can be deceiptive!

The only engine that calls for 10w-60 are two BMW engines the S54 and S62. Oh and old 50's style V8's.

Cheers

Guy.

 

Perhaps those that are not sure about 10w-60 and I am in that camp should read this as guidance as it explains the consequences of using an oil that's too thick or thin for your engine.

Surely the thicker the oil the better!

This isn't always true - even when using a petroleum oil. Although it is true that
heavier viscosity oils (which are generally thought of as being thicker) will hold up better under heavy loads and high temperatures, this doesn't necessarily make them a better choice for all applications.

On many newer vehicles only 0w-40, 5w40 or 10w40 engine oils are recommended by the manufacturer. If you choose to use a higher viscosity oil than what is recommended, at the very least you are likely to reduce performance of the engine. Fuel economy will likely go down and engine performance will drop.

In the winter months it is highly recommended that you not use a heavier grade oil than what is recommended by the manufacturer. In cold start conditions you could very well be causing more engine wear than when using a lighter viscosity oil. In the summer months, going to a heavier grade is less of an issue, but there are still some things to be aware of.

Moving one grade up from the recommended viscosity is not likely to cause any problems (say from a 10w40 to a 10w50 oil). The differences in pumping and flow resitance will be slight. Although, efficiency of the engine will decrease, the oil will likely still flow adequately through the engine to maintain proper protection. However, it will not likely protect any better than the lighter weight oil recommended by the manufacturer.

Moving two grades up from the recommended viscosity (say 10w40 to 10w-60) is a little more extreme and could cause long term engine damage if not short term. Although the oil will still probably flow ok through the engine, it is a heavier visocosity oil. As such it will be more difficult to pump the oil through the engine. More friction will be present than with a lighter viscosity oil. More friction means more heat. In other words, by going to a thicker oil in the summer months, you may actually be causing more heat build-up within the engine. You'll still be providing adequate protection from metal to metal contact in the engine by going with a high viscosity, but the higher viscosity will raise engine temperatures.

In the short run, this is no big deal. However, over the long term, when engine components are run at higher temperatures, they WILL wear out more quickly. As such, if you intend on keeping the vehicle for awhile, keep this in mind if you're considering using a heavier weight oil than the manufacturer recommends.
The best advice is to is to stay away from viscosity grades that are not mentioned in your owner's manual or seek professional advice on the best oil for your car.

Cheers
Guy

 

Oilman/men.

Can you e-mail me a price list with deliver costs etc to dazclayton@blueyonder.co.uk

Thanks.

 

Glad you joined the forum Guy

 

wow what a great read thanks for taking the time to post all that.

not going to bin my Castrol RS thought based on the fact it isn't a "truly" synthetic oil. So many cars, for so long have been run fine on this oil without problems.

Knowing my luck i'll put some really tasty, "truly" synthetic oil in my car, all the varnish, deposits and sludge will move from the locations they have been happily living for the last 10+ years and my car will go bang

Castrol RS will stay (in this engine at least)

Paul

 

Paul I am inclined to agree, just cause it is not a true synthetic does mean you have to change it however it would be nice if they told us!!. My own feelings on the RS 10w-60 is it is too thick, as thisk as some gear oils!. When you next change your oil give a 10w-50 a try. The 10w-60 has a wide range of viscosity to cover, we know they do this with VI improvers, the larger the viscosity range, the more VI improver they have to put in. A good 10w-50 or 15w-50 will be using less VI improvers so the oil can be more efficient at doing its other tasks.

Cheers

Guy.

 

i use that as well

 

If my engine is not in the best of conditions (and it probably isn't ) would changing the oil not move those sludge deposits about and cause damage to the engine? or am i way off the mark?

My engine used to tap when the bloke before ran it on Shell Helix 10w40, so i was told to give Castrol 10w60 a go. It now doesn't tap anywhere near as bad (hardly at all)


Cheers

Paul

 

use 10- 30 multiblend ford oil in ma car, works a treat!!!!

 

Once the fully syn has cleaned out all the sludge, it will sound louder and probably some rattles, I agree move to a thicker oil to prevent damage, however again a 10w-60 is tooo thick, go for a good 10w-50.

Cheers

Guy.

 

Comma and valvoline are same oil LOL....

Castrol RS on track runs MUCH better, better pressure and lower temps....thats good enough for me, as it gets changed every 2000 miles

 

Oilman,

A friend of mine has a Renault Clio Cup 172 & is wanting to do an oil change prior to the first service (12,000miles). What oil viscosity & manfuacturer would you recommend, in the handbook it recommends 10w40 semi-synthetic but suggests you can go to 5 or even 0w40 fully synthetic for better protection.

Cheers,
Ian

 

Ian,

They run best on 5w-40 fully synthetic.

Cheers
Simon

 

Cheers Simon but which brand/s would you recommend?

 

I always suggest you go for a brand name, like Mobil Fuchs Castrol Total Motul and my personal favorite, Silkolene.

Cheers

Simon.

 

what kind of oil would you recomend for a 120,000 mile renault 5?

Tis only a poxy 1.2cc but,trying to keep it healthy as long as possible

 

For this one there is no point in going for over kill. For all year round use they recomend a 15w-50 mineral multigrade or a 10w-40 semisynthetic.

I would personally go for a good 10w-40 semi synthetic. Once again steer clear of home brands and try to get a quality one, Castrol, Total, Fuchs, Motul etc. A good quality semi will not cost a lot of money and with regular changes should help keep the engine going for many miles to come.

E-mail me at sales@opieoils.co.uk for options and prices.

Cheers

Simon.

 

cheers simon.

i know my mate recently did an oil change with 20-40 at an expensive Ł3 for 4.5 litres

 

What do you reckon to the range of Oils from Shell / Helix, are they some that fall into the "dressed up" oils class too?

 

If they call it a fully synthetic, the Shell Helix is likely to be a hydrocracked mineral oil. The only true synthetics they do are the 0w viscosity oils.

Cheers

Simon.