ok im sticking this up for a mate.
he bought a car for next to nothing as he wanted the engin loom and tank etc to do a conversion.
he didnt want his car to be off the road for to long so decided to try and get the engine running in the car before removing it.

he encountered a few problems along the way with the loom. (it was just chucked in the boot, never actually run in the car)
he struggled getting the fuel pump and things to run.

he now has a spark and is using a 12 supply straight off the battery to get the fuel pump running.
there is definately fuel making it into the engine. but it just wont start.
we tried pumping the butterfly flap thingy (i think thats the technical term for it anyway) in the metering head but stil now joy. it really does ound like its not even trying.

a few things i noticed that i wanted to query was this:
2 female spade connectors on the ecu loom just before the multi plug. these have nothing going to them

also the firing order is 1,3,4,2 if i am correct. does this go clockwise or anticlockwise on the distributer, is no. 1 the top one?

basicially what would be really handy is a quick list of things to check that would cause the car not to start.
someone done this for me before when my novas engine didnt start and it was very very handy. (things like cps, fuel pump relay etc)

one last thing, the small boost hoses. on the engine they go from the top of dump vavle to the square inlet manifold thing, and also from there it goes to the ecu and it T's off to what i think would be for a boost gague but there isnt one at the moment so that isnt going anywhere.

any help and advice would be great as he was kind of hoping to get this engine running and then do the conversion before central day!

cheers in advance guys

 

i dont know what the 2 spade connectors on the loom are for, i hav seen them on other looms but not doing anything

with the metering unit

crack off the top of the injectors on it, turn igntion on and press down the flap fuel dhould come out if it does then the metering unit is ok if it doesnt its siezed and needs replacing, you will always have fuel at cold start aswell even if its knackered

the timing is 1 3 4 2 heres a quick diagram of how the leads go looking at the dizzy from passenger side



fuel pump could be down to knackered fuel pump relay

pink one under neath driver side dashboard

 

it also turns over a bit whiney sounds kind of like electric is this because it is getting no fuel? theres def fuel at metering head but metering head has been sitting around for atleast 6months?

 

check the compression mate

 

i know the engine was ok as it came out of my friends car running then he started the conversion, do you thinkit could be fuel not getting to the inlet from the metering head so theres no attempt to fire?

 

there mite be fuel at metering head but is it distributing it to the injectors

have you checked the plugs to see if you have spark

i would do a compression check though just to make sure

 

i have to check it at the metering head when i get time, but in order to do a compression test doesnt the engine have to be warm? so therefore it wouldnt be accurate? and it was a running engine?

 

im only saying compression check the way u said it sounds electric turning over

as this could be no compression

 

notorious for airlocks, crack off the bolts on the fuel lines and until fuel starts to get through, then nip em back up and re-try

 

what on the inlet end i take it?

 

most just do it on the metering head end.

 

cheers mate, il give it a try when i get a min

 

i bled the fuel lines to the inlet and is def getting fuel and has also got a spark so i cant think what else other than compression, although it was a running engine unless its not getting air to ignite the spark? how do i go about doinga compression test if i cant warm the engine up?

 

just do it mate

its the only way your going to know what compression you have

 

but the engine hasto be warm for this to work?

 

well if u have spark and fuel it should fire

is the timing correct on it?

id judt do a compression check tbh

i know ur supose to do it warm as the rings will have expanded but it should still show up a bad reading when cold if sumthings a miss

 

i cant see why it would be a perfect engine then have buggered rings?
what could stop the air getting to the spark?