xr4x4rs

iTrader: (5)

what do they do exactly

i have no idea and are they worth fitting to a track day cos

would i have to remove the abs etc

any info on these and re they a bolt straight in job

thanks

NUTS RuS

iTrader: (35)

Vehicle brakes need to be re plumbed so they are front / front and rear / rear, and not cross diagonal like they are now.

You can then set the 'bias' between front and rear brakes to get a far better brake balance, and firm pedal feel.

Not strictly a 'bolt on job' then due to the above work required.

Porkie

iTrader: (1)

WELL worth fitting in my opinion but you are looking at well over £1k to get a proper one in there I think. Don't know what I paid but it was more than that.











Looks better now its powder coated

dangerous - reyland

Not strictly a 'bolt on job' then due to the above work required.[/quote]


You can say that again Took me forever to sort the Wilwood one to my escos

it fits slightly differently to Porkies ie the cylinders are indide the car, under the dash

Had to lower the steering column to get it all in

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

and you loose the servo, so you gotta really stamp on the fukker to get the car to stop

Porkie

iTrader: (1)

Not true at all.

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

really?

i thought they were bit of a pain till you get used to just stomping on the brakes?

Porkie

iTrader: (1)

Thats what I thought... but its bollox IMHO. And you don't 'stomp' because you have alot more feel. You squeeze....

Sona, Rentons wife must be all of 5 stone and she drove Martins Escort without even realising it had no servo.

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

lol fair enough lee, i just thought it was like trying to brake in a road car with the engine switched off - impossible lol

i guess it does depend on what size master cylinder you use too?

ian sibbert

Lovely engineering on the pedal box Lee.....who made it?

Never had any trouble with the pedal on a car fitted with a bias box....correctly selected master cylinders is the key.....

NUTS RuS

iTrader: (35)

My actual pedal moves less than 1 inch, if I stamp on it I will break my ankle fudgeass

Fudgey

iTrader: (4)

cheers guys, i was just told that they were a pig to use. as you can tell ive never driven a car with one lol

i was thinking about getting one for the fast ford 3 door project but was advised not to.

plus i got no cash at the mo anyway

Porkie

iTrader: (1)

blimey coming from you that quite a compliment.

Martin had it made. I think it was EARS???? not sure, Sorry

ian sibbert

Speak as I find pal....I'd heard john @ ears was having some made never actually seen 1, but they look the business.....

capri-rs

i have .625 cylinder on the front and a .700 on the rear.using cossie 2wd calipers around.

does this sound right?

btw its my capri

cheers

ian sibbert

Sounds ok to me

broadmoor

Might wanna tuffun up the bulkhead if you fit one..i did

xr4x4rs

iTrader: (5)

so i need to modify the bulkhead for the cylinders to fit through and also fit a plate on the outside

are all pedal boxes hydraulic clutches as i want to go hydraulic aswell

what does each cylinder do on the brake side now theres two

RichardPON

XR - you're overly complicating it.

One master cylinder is for the rear brakes (usually through a hydraluic handbrake) - one line from the cylinder to the rear of the car, then t-pieced to each caliper.

The fronts usually have one feed to each front caliper from the cylinder.

You then use the balance bar to........... er balance between the feed for front and rear.

You can get pedal boxes in 2 and 3 resevoir formats, but the hydraulic clutch is a worthy mod.

xr4x4rs

iTrader: (5)

got ya mate

always wondered how they plumbed up lol

well im not going hydraulic handbrake as i need the car to be road legal aswell

you say balance bar is this the bar in the pics above where the rods for the cylinders are on or is there another one in there somewhere

is it possible to use a brake bias valve so it can be done manually while driving insead of adjusting the bar or is it just worh setting the bar and leaving it as it is

but thanks fo rthe info much appriciated

Porkie

iTrader: (1)

See the silver twisty knob to the left of the wheel under dash next to fire extinguisher pull?

Well that adjusts front/rear brake balance.

broadmoor

The balance bar can be seen here..


but with respect you would'nt need to adust it whilst driving? unless your considering a entering a WRC event?

xr4x4rs

iTrader: (5)

got ya thanks porkie

how much was the box if you dont mind me asking

do you know if it comes with everything complete and is it a job that people can do or is it a job for the pros

ian sibbert

Pic of bias adjustment if it helps....

Porkie

iTrader: (1)

what if you were out on a track session and the conditions changed... or you wanted to experiment or perfect your cars balance.

Porkie

iTrader: (1)

fully fitted, plumbed in with aeroquip, with the bulkhead reinforced and painted, the box powder coated and installed .... I would imagine ALOT a fooking LOT!



Sorry mate, I don't ever get bills or receipts from Martoon to be honest. So I have no clue!
BUT unless you are very serious about your trackdays or just love spending money on old Fords I wouldn't bother mate. Stick with whats there and fit a bias valve like a used to have.

capri-rs

sobster or porkie

how do you adjust the rod lenghts on the master cylinder.when the pedal is fully depressed or without any pressure on the pedal.have been told both so wich is the correct way?

MAD EVO 4

Heres my pedal box and my blue adjuster knob all installed by Danny B








I only have an inch pedal movement and i love the feel i now get when braking

xr4x4rs

iTrader: (5)

well im new to all this and would like to start doing track days as much as i can when the cars built

i would keep what i have but i would need to wire the abs into a mk4 and wouldnt know where to start at that point hence asking about pedal boxes

plus ive heard its bad to use the abs system on track with aps front and rear how true this is i dont know

but i also need it drivable on the raod as i would have some fun at weekends lol

if anyone knows how to wire up the abs then ill leave it in lol

ian sibbert

rod length on the master cylinders them selves should be equal,
its the pivot position between the two that changes to provide bias across the two cylinders and hence more/less pressure to one or the other.....
altering the master cylinder rod length would adjust pedal travel and braking would occur early either on the front or rear first (dependant on which master cylinder rod you adjusted) if that makes sense......lol

markk

iTrader: (2)

for those who have never been involved with a bias box, they do seam pretty hard to get your head round, but in principle there very simple and very effective

capri-rs

see if i get this straight.
the lenght of the rods should be equal when the pedal have no pressure on it?
if so i have it all wrong on my setup

ohh and it should be sibster not sobster
sorry for that one

cheers

ian sibbert

Been called a lot worse than that matey

You are correct IMO if you have lets say the rod length longer on the front cylinder you will be braking earlier (less travel before the cylinder engages) on the front with little effort towards the rear, this may promote the characteristics you want but it isn't using the bias pedal box principle as it should be used.....

Regards

Ian

capri-rs

thanks.cleared up my head about this subject

cheers