killa_paul

Hi guys im sure theres more info on this i just cant find it
ive serched around but not really had much luck ..

ive got ap 330 4 pots on the front and 4x4 rears

the breaks work fine nice pedal but the abs is not kicking in
how can i faultfind the abs system...
if the sensore all test fine how can i check the abs init its self .... are three any fault coads for it ect..

is there a tech manuall for the abs system

the abs light comes on and goes off as it should ,
and stays off when driving if i try i can lock up the wheels with no abs at all ....

any info or help greatly recieved ..

thanks
Paul

cossie891

iTrader: (1)

My bloody lights stay on and never go out

killa_paul

Fluid level sensor maybe ?

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

Seems to be an issue with air in the brakes or either within the electro valves or the wiring to them.

ELECTRO-VALVE TESTS

All tests performed with ABS ECU unplugged and ignition switched OFF unless stated otherwise.

Resistance Test 1
-- Connect ohmmeter between ECU connector terminals 1 and 11
-- Resistance should be lower than 1 ohm
-- If value is not correct, check for continuity between ECU connector terminal 11 and electro-valve connector terminal 7 (brown wire), and check that terminal 7 on the electro-valve (corresponding with the brown wire) is earthed.

Resistance Test 2
-- Connect ohmmeter between ECU connector terminals :

• 11 and 15
• 11 and 17
• 11 and 35
• 11 and 33
• 11 and 16
• 11 and 34

-- Resistance for each electro-valve should be between 3 and 7 ohms.
-- If not, remove connector from electro-valve, and check resistance between the following electro-valve terminals (the brown wire is terminal 7):

• 1 & 7 (LH front inlet valve)
• 2 & 7 (LH front outlet valve)
• 3 & 7 (rear inlet valve)
• 4 & 7 (rear outlet valve)
• 5 & 7 (RH front outlet valve)
• 6 & 7 (RH front inlet valve)

-- If one of the values is not correct (3 to 7 ohms), replace electro-valve/master cylinder assembly.
-- If the values are correct, check for continuity between control electro-valve connector and ECU connector.

• ABS ECU connector terminal 15 & electro-valve terminal 1
• ABS ECU connector terminal 34 & electro-valve terminal 2
• ABS ECU connector terminal 17 & electro-valve terminal 3
• ABS ECU connector terminal 33 & electro-valve terminal 4
• ABS ECU connector terminal 16 & electro-valve terminal 5
• ABS ECU connector terminal 35 & electro-valve terminal 6

Operation Test
IMPORTANT : Do not energize electro-valves for more than 60 sec.
-- Jack up vehicle to turn wheels.
-- Switch Ignition to position I
-- Wait for ABS pump to stop
-- Switch ignition OFF
-- Connect short jumper wire between ECU connector terminals 2 & 8
-- To test left front wheel valves, connect short jumper wires between ECU connector terminals 3 and 16 and 35. Depress brake pedal to lock wheel. If ignition now switched to position II, wheel should be free to rotate.
-- Repeat test for right front wheel, using short jumper wires between ECU connector terminals 3 and 15 and 34.
-- Repeat test for rear wheels, using short jumper wires between ECU connector terminals 3 and 17 and 33.
-- If one of these checks is not correct, but the wiring checks out OK, replace electro-valve assembly.

killa_paul

your an absolute star thanks mate will check all this tomorrow

killa_paul

-So after checking all the wiring is ok .....
looks like i need a replacement electro-valve anyone know if you can get thease reconditioned or a company that does a replacement .
mine must have seized up with lack of use ....

getting a second hand ,ight not be a worker , any idea how much these might go for thanks

its for a 1987 sapphire

thanks Paul

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

before you spend any money, what were the test results ?

killa_paul

results below



ELECTRO-VALVE TESTS

All tests performed with ABS ECU unplugged and ignition switched OFF unless stated otherwise.

Resistance Test 1
-- Connect ohmmeter between ECU connector terminals 1 and 11
-- Resistance should be lower than 1 ohm
-- If value is not correct, check for continuity between ECU connector terminal 11 and electro-valve connector terminal 7 (brown wire), and check that terminal 7 on the electro-valve (corresponding with the brown wire) is earthed

Had to replace this with a new wire as there was a break somewhere now tests ok

Resistance Test 2
-- Connect ohmmeter between ECU connector terminals :
• 11 and 15 6.1 ohms
• 11 and 17 6.1 ohms
• 11 and 35 6.1 ohms
• 11 and 33 6.1 ohms
• 11 and 16 6.1 ohms
• 11 and 34 6.1 ohms
-- Resistance for each electro-valve should be between 3 and 7 ohms.
-- If not, remove connector from electro-valve, and check resistance between the following electro-valve terminals (the brown wire is terminal 7):
• 1 & 7 (LH front inlet valve)
• 2 & 7 (LH front outlet valve)
• 3 & 7 (rear inlet valve)
• 4 & 7 (rear outlet valve)
• 5 & 7 (RH front outlet valve)
• 6 & 7 (RH front inlet valve)
-- If one of the values is not correct (3 to 7 ohms), replace electro-valve/master cylinder assembly.
-- If the values are correct, check for continuity between control electro-valve connector and ECU connector.
• ABS ECU connector terminal 15 & electro-valve terminal 1 ok
• ABS ECU connector terminal 34 & electro-valve terminal 2 ok
• ABS ECU connector terminal 17 & electro-valve terminal 3 ok
• ABS ECU connector terminal 33 & electro-valve terminal 4 ok
• ABS ECU connector terminal 16 & electro-valve terminal 5 ok
• ABS ECU connector terminal 35 & electro-valve terminal 6 ok

Operation Test
IMPORTANT : Do not energize electro-valves for more than 60 sec.
-- Jack up vehicle to turn wheels.
-- Switch Ignition to position I
-- Wait for ABS pump to stop
-- Switch ignition OFF
-- Connect short jumper wire between ECU connector terminals 2 & 8
-- To test left front wheel valves, connect short jumper wires between ECU connector terminals 3 and 16 and 35. Depress brake pedal to lock wheel. If ignition now switched to position II, wheel should be free to rotate. Wheel locked
-- Repeat test for right front wheel, using short jumper wires between ECU connector terminals 3 and 15 and 34. wheel locked
-- Repeat test for rear wheels, using short jumper wires between ECU connector terminals 3 and 17 and 33. did not test as the first two failed
-- If one of these checks is not correct, but the wiring checks out OK, replace electro-valve assembly.


i take it its not because its got uprated breaks on it .....ap 330s front and 4x4 rears ..


is it safe to put volttage straight in to the electro valve to see if i can hear or feel it operate

cheers

killa_paul

still not working

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

I cant see the different brakes causing the fault. I would try and power the valve up but disconnect the wirimg from it.when you turn the ignition on does the abs pump not prime.

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

do the wheels lock and stay locked on heavy braking, or does the ABS seem to work but the pedal doesn't push back?

killa_paul

the pump primes as normal....the abs light comes on and goes off as normal...

killa_paul

the wheels lock up jon the pedal comes back, it acts the same as a car with no abs....pedal feels absolutly fine press to hard and the wheels lock up !!

ive tried bleeding the breaks twice now ....


cheers paul

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

how are you bleeding the brakes ?

killa_paul

im bleeding them as per the workshop manual ...

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

...and you're bleeding all 4 front nipples (2 each caliper) ?

killa_paul

yes i am indeedy

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

as the wiring to the electrovalves checks out, the only thing I can think of is :
1. as you say above, the elecrovalves are mechanically seized
2. internal fault inside the ECU
3. damage to the wiring feeding/earthing the ECU preventing sufficient current flow to allow the electrovalves to be energised

Before spending any money on (1) or (2), it may be worth having a very careful look at the fuses and wiring and connectors to the ECU. It may be possible a wire has been damaged and is showing continuity but only via a single strand, or a fuse has blown but still making a very poor connection.......

Of course, trying an alternative ECU if you've got a spare will be an easy check.

With regards energising the electrovalves individually and directly, yes you can do it, but ony for a short time. Jack the car up, energise the appropriate valve, and make sure it lock/releases the wheel as you cycle the electrovalve on and off..

killa_paul

Thanks mate you have been a great help, if i make up leads to go directly in to the electro valve unit how would i test the indvidual electro valves as each valve has an in and out pin ...... would it be as simple as ground pin 7 then put 12 v on pin 1 for the front left ... wheel locked then 12 v to pin 2 to unlock the valve wheel rotates ....

is that correct ?
cheers

jon@work

iTrader: (5)

have a look at my first post

killa_paul

someone come and fix my abs please lol

killa_paul

Can anyone tell me if there are any real differences between the abs elecro valve on a 2wd and 4x4, and or any different versions of the main abs modual,
ive still not got it working and im thinking of just changing these parts , as under testing i cant seem to get the electro valve to lock the wheel ,
anyone , please its the lat thig to get done to my car
cheers paul

part numbers would be nice