Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Just wanna know can i remove the hub with the bearing carrier or do i have to remove the big hub nut and do it that way.I was thinking about removing the allen key bolts from the drive shaft then remove the hub and bearing carrier in one,thats if the hub will come out of the hole in the trailing arms.

Hopefully i will be changing the rear arms this weekend.

Marc sierra

iTrader: (1)

The stub shaft won't go through the hole in the arm. So the only way to take it off is to undo the 41mm nut on the centre of the drive flange. Also be aware that on the left hand side the thread of the hub nut is also left sided.

Sonic Boom

iTrader: (11)

Ye please remember this and don't do what I did the first time I took mine off and air gun it off the wrong way and bugger the thread
Rich

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Thanks very much for that info people. I hope the nut isnt too tight.

tosh

If you are trying to take the hub carrier off the rear arms and then bolt them back onto some new arms without undoing the big hub nut you can, you need to undo the drive shaft bolts and remove the calliper and disc, then you will see a hole in the wheel flange which allows you to fit a socket through to get to the four bolts that hold the hub to the lower arm, just rotate it to get to each bolt.

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Yeh thats what i was gonna do matey.I will have a go this weekend and replace the arms.

Marc sierra

iTrader: (1)

You cannot take the hub carrier off the rear arms without undoing the big hub nut. The part of the stub shaft that connects to the drive shaft is too big to fit through the hole in the arms.

Doing it like you describe only works on Sierras with rear drum brakes, but not with disc brakes. The back of the stub shaft is just as thick as the actual CV joint, because the bolts are right at the outside of the CV joint. On drumbrake Sierras the CV joints thinner, but even some drumbrake CV joints are too thick to go through the hole in the arm.

BRAMMER

iTrader: (23)

You need to strip it Glenn, souldnt be too hard but make sure you have the right tools before you start as it will tight, I put mine together then realised the disc shields were too small so it had to come apart only 30 mins later and that wad hard enough.

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Brammer i will have a look at it tomorrow.I have to go to my dads to get the big 41mm socket out of my tool box.My backing plates are nackered so im just gonna take them off.

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

I replaced my arns today.I dont know if you can do them with the beam in but i dropped the lot out cause i wanted to put some more underseal on the chassis legs since i will be using it through winter.

The osr brake flexy pipe from the caliper to the trailing arm nacked up so i had to buy one of those.

Also noticed the fuel tank was leaking so ive took that out and its gonna get repaired this week.It must of been out before cause the captive nut wasnst there.It was a nut and bolt.

Bloody old cars lol.

tosh

I'm a Cu*****nt my apologies what was I thinking, and I wasn't even drunk when I wrote it

What makes it worse is I only just put mine back together at the start of the summer

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

No bother matey.I took the wheel bearings out too and regreased them too.

I was a bit pissed off about the petrol tank cause i was wanting to drive my car again.Looks like its gonna be next weekend now.Ive still got a nsf suspension arm and poly bushes to fit.

tosh

It's always the same mate you start one job then find something else that needs doing and before you know it, the car that was meant to be back on the road for summer sits doing nothing for yet another year.

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Hopefully it will be all built back up next weekend and back on the road.

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Drove my car today after fitting the fuel tank.It drives like a different car with the new rear arms on.It just feels tighter.

paul16v

Glad to hear its sorted now mate

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Yeh thank fook.I changed the front suspension arms poly bushes too.Whats the best way to get the holes to line back up for the bolt to go back in the sub frame.

I was fooking about with the drivers side for ages.I put the wheel back on then lowered the car down and it lined back up lol. I hate doing these arms.