YB engine rebuild diary w/Pics
#81
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doesn't look like it needs honing, can still see the crosshatching and cylinders arent glazed up as you'd expect
wasn't planning on getting it decked, is that the same principles as getting a cylinder head skimmed but on the block?
wasn't planning on getting it decked, is that the same principles as getting a cylinder head skimmed but on the block?
#82
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A sprung loaded hone on a hand held drill is all that is required, make sure you have the "cross hatch" pattern pretty good. This will hardly effect bore size in the slightest, maybe .0005" to .001" tops. Chaffe
#84
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Always, always hone the bores before fitting pistons and rings again (new or old) this will break the glaze in the bore and introduce an ideal surface to bed the rings in with. That way the rings will bed in nice and give good compression, if you leave them you will run the risk of a lot of blow by and a heavy breather or at worst a smokey engine as the oil will easily get past the oil control rings and into the combustion chamber.
A sprung loaded hone on a hand held drill is all that is required, make sure you have the "cross hatch" pattern pretty good. This will hardly effect bore size in the slightest, maybe .0005" to .001" tops. Chaffe
A sprung loaded hone on a hand held drill is all that is required, make sure you have the "cross hatch" pattern pretty good. This will hardly effect bore size in the slightest, maybe .0005" to .001" tops. Chaffe
#85
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#86
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I'm sure the cross hatch look ok, but I'd still put some new rings in it since you've gone to all that trouble. Don't want to be using a litre of oil every 100 miles because of blow by.
#87
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The point im making is that the glaze needs broken, regardless of what the original hone looks like, it will be smooth now and no use for re-building with new or used rings.
#88
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Wasn't replying to your message mate, I agree if anything. I'm just stating the obvious, if the engine appart then don't be cheap about it and rebuild it completely. Build it once, build it right
#95
Norris Motorsport
It is essential to both surface grind the block and re-face the cylinder head. We machine all our blocks and heads in house and I have never had an original block face be any where near flat. A block that looks perfect from a standard car, will always need at least 2 - 3 thou removing to make totally flat, and likewise I often machine heads needing 10thou removing to make flat, even though they appear perfect!
Hope you listen to my advice!
Hope you listen to my advice!
#99
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One or two Guru's taken notice to this thread and agree, just take it to a reputable machine shop and get it done. Cheap enough to get done, far cheaper than having to buy new gaskets again etc.
#100
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Fair one...
out of curiosity i stuck a piston back with a new set of rings this afternoon, the rings sit nicely on the piston and they slotted straight into the cylinder bore but although the piston moves up and down the bore it seems very stiff/tight even though i oiled up the bore...
is this normal, on the old set of rings the piston moved up andown very freely and even wobbled side to side slightly in the bore, these ones have no play at all.
Bores are yet to be honed which should help a little
...Oh yeah speaking to a mate later to see if he can get the block and head looked at making them 100% flat
out of curiosity i stuck a piston back with a new set of rings this afternoon, the rings sit nicely on the piston and they slotted straight into the cylinder bore but although the piston moves up and down the bore it seems very stiff/tight even though i oiled up the bore...
is this normal, on the old set of rings the piston moved up andown very freely and even wobbled side to side slightly in the bore, these ones have no play at all.
Bores are yet to be honed which should help a little
...Oh yeah speaking to a mate later to see if he can get the block and head looked at making them 100% flat
#101
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Where abouts in cambs are you? shouldn't mind popping round for a gander Plus i know ill get stuck, your have to live here for a week or two if i get stuck
Your doing a great job i think. Keeps me thinking do i start mine or get it on the road... I love the block sprayed up! Thats making me want to do mine more!
Your doing a great job i think. Keeps me thinking do i start mine or get it on the road... I love the block sprayed up! Thats making me want to do mine more!
#102
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live in march near peterborough,
problem with taking the engine apart is that you soon discover all the gremlins hiding beneath... sometimes ignorance is bliss lol
problem with taking the engine apart is that you soon discover all the gremlins hiding beneath... sometimes ignorance is bliss lol
#106
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Thats one of the cons of why i dont wanna do mine till it plays up, it might do that when i start it again anyway!
#107
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#108
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#109
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Taking it slow is good mate, look at my Focos thread and have a look at all the engine work. Had the block bead blasted to make sure all rust was removed, all the oil gallery's on the head had been opened and cleaned properly to remove any swarfs or bits of sealer etc. Its worth it in the head to make a healthy lump
#110
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just got off the phone to harvey gibbs, gonna run the lot down to him monday for inspection.
Ive had alot of good advice on here which has been very much appreciated but to be quite honest i have been rushing and trying to get it back together on a tight budget
... this shouldn't be the case with a high performance engine such as this so from now on things will be done properly and at a decent pace
(i promise )
Ive had alot of good advice on here which has been very much appreciated but to be quite honest i have been rushing and trying to get it back together on a tight budget
... this shouldn't be the case with a high performance engine such as this so from now on things will be done properly and at a decent pace
(i promise )
#112
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Hi mate i learned the hard way as well with cossie engines & all you do is give yourself more trouble in the long run it makes more sense to do it right first even tho the car might be off the road a bit longer so you get a bit more funds , Harvey is the main man & he will put you right Fair play for giving it a bash your not far away keep us posted
#117
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see you monday mate, hopefully clear up this confusion so i can crack on with the build
all my parts/gaskets are just laying there waiting to go back in
all my parts/gaskets are just laying there waiting to go back in
#119
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Just out of intrest, if the head is slightly warped and needs 0.025" skimmed off of it to true it up then what is happening with the camshaft journals? they must be warped too? then the cam will be twisted in the head surley? just ive seen irregular wear on cam journals before after a head has been warped then skimmed "flat" again, the only flat thing is the gasket face IMO, the rest is still warped...
(not saying the OPs head is warped by any means, just saying skimming is not a cure)
(not saying the OPs head is warped by any means, just saying skimming is not a cure)
#120
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Just out of intrest, if the head is slightly warped and needs 0.025" skimmed off of it to true it up then what is happening with the camshaft journals? they must be warped too? then the cam will be twisted in the head surley? just ive seen irregular wear on cam journals before after a head has been warped then skimmed "flat" again, the only flat thing is the gasket face IMO, the rest is still warped...
(not saying the OPs head is warped by any means, just saying skimming is not a cure)
(not saying the OPs head is warped by any means, just saying skimming is not a cure)
I was a little worried about getting the head skimmed as its not ideal for a turbo car and the valves have already touched the piston crowns.
Im gonna take some previous advice given (by tabetha i think) and get the valve cutouts ontop of each piston