Hydraulic clutch parts
#42
20K+ Super Poster.
Thread Starter
Hi Matt,
Thanks for that, it's appreciated, please pm me your email for picture hosting, hopefully encourage more to do thier own well worthwhile conversions.
tabetha
Thanks for that, it's appreciated, please pm me your email for picture hosting, hopefully encourage more to do thier own well worthwhile conversions.
tabetha
#43
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Thread Starter
Hi Matt,
Did you get the piccies ok ?, sent thursday eve.
Turboshed have you sent me two red plastic bits yet ?, for the pedal that I accidentally sent you when I sent you the adjuster bit and pawl, thanks
tabetha
Did you get the piccies ok ?, sent thursday eve.
Turboshed have you sent me two red plastic bits yet ?, for the pedal that I accidentally sent you when I sent you the adjuster bit and pawl, thanks
tabetha
#47
20K+ Super Poster.
Thread Starter
Thanks matt, didn't even remember sending the poly diff mount ones!!
Hopefully piccies will encourage others to do this very worthwhile conversion.
tabetha
Hopefully piccies will encourage others to do this very worthwhile conversion.
tabetha
#51
20K+ Super Poster.
Thread Starter
I don't have part numbers of the bits, I used LANDROVER series 2/2a master cylinder and slave cylinder, £26.58 the pair delivered, re seal kits are £3!!
The rose joints I used were 5/16", about £4, used some alloy I had to make the adjuster, one end is left hand thread, the other end is std right hand thread, so as it is turned it gets longer or shorter without having to disconnect a thing.
Left hand thread rose joints easy to get, got all my parts from begay.
Owing to the cost for anyone contemplating this of the left hand tap needed to cut that thread, if wanting to do it that way I'm more than happy to do this FOC(just postage £1, in a padded envelope).
You could do it with a regular right hand thread, though as the rod coming from the master cylinder will spin no probs, I just didn't think about this at the time!!
If you look near the area where the pipes from the brake master cyl go and bend just as they get near the bulkhead about 4" away from brake cylinder, you will notice the sound deadening is held on with a plastic clip to the bulkhead onto a threaded stud sticking out of the bulkhead, this is the CENTRE point for your first hole, this will be for the clutch master cyl centre, it later bored out to as needed in my case 35mm, I have some blacksmiths bits up to 56m, but could only find my smaller set in the piccie.
Sorting me gearbox end this week, as well as starting engine rebuild, had a bit of a problem finding std size big ends and mains, even more amazing for 200K miles!!.
Been sorting out me PAS cooler today, and making some reinforcement pipes/tubes for brakes/calipers.
I'm more than happy to help anyone who asks, but mods please note I charge only to cover my material and post costs, certainly not going to be a millionaire from this.
I've recently ordered some 6.9mm drill bits as this is the correct size hole for the 5/16 rod ends, I did mine at 7mm and plenty good strong as anything, but would be happier with 6.9, also ordered some 11.4mm drills for the 5/8 joints I have, ffs talk about pricey for 11.4mm bit, can find lathe ones all day, centre fed ones, at a good price, but not std.
tabetha
The rose joints I used were 5/16", about £4, used some alloy I had to make the adjuster, one end is left hand thread, the other end is std right hand thread, so as it is turned it gets longer or shorter without having to disconnect a thing.
Left hand thread rose joints easy to get, got all my parts from begay.
Owing to the cost for anyone contemplating this of the left hand tap needed to cut that thread, if wanting to do it that way I'm more than happy to do this FOC(just postage £1, in a padded envelope).
You could do it with a regular right hand thread, though as the rod coming from the master cylinder will spin no probs, I just didn't think about this at the time!!
If you look near the area where the pipes from the brake master cyl go and bend just as they get near the bulkhead about 4" away from brake cylinder, you will notice the sound deadening is held on with a plastic clip to the bulkhead onto a threaded stud sticking out of the bulkhead, this is the CENTRE point for your first hole, this will be for the clutch master cyl centre, it later bored out to as needed in my case 35mm, I have some blacksmiths bits up to 56m, but could only find my smaller set in the piccie.
Sorting me gearbox end this week, as well as starting engine rebuild, had a bit of a problem finding std size big ends and mains, even more amazing for 200K miles!!.
Been sorting out me PAS cooler today, and making some reinforcement pipes/tubes for brakes/calipers.
I'm more than happy to help anyone who asks, but mods please note I charge only to cover my material and post costs, certainly not going to be a millionaire from this.
I've recently ordered some 6.9mm drill bits as this is the correct size hole for the 5/16 rod ends, I did mine at 7mm and plenty good strong as anything, but would be happier with 6.9, also ordered some 11.4mm drills for the 5/8 joints I have, ffs talk about pricey for 11.4mm bit, can find lathe ones all day, centre fed ones, at a good price, but not std.
tabetha
#53
20K+ Super Poster.
Thread Starter
I get where you are coming from, but I'm a bit of an odd person, I'm not even remotely interested in making money, I consider it's a necessary evil that causes more problems than it cures.
If I had a gauranteed income of £1k a week from selling stuff, I still wouldn't do it, more than happy to help anyone that asks though FOC.
I spent 3 hours on the lathe making some spacers for someone and charged him £5 to cover the materials, not sure it did cover it though!!
If I sold kits and 1 bit went wrong I would feel so guilty, even if I gave a free replacement and all the money back, I'd actually still feel so guilty/bad I wouldn't sleep, odd I know but that's me.
tabetha
If I had a gauranteed income of £1k a week from selling stuff, I still wouldn't do it, more than happy to help anyone that asks though FOC.
I spent 3 hours on the lathe making some spacers for someone and charged him £5 to cover the materials, not sure it did cover it though!!
If I sold kits and 1 bit went wrong I would feel so guilty, even if I gave a free replacement and all the money back, I'd actually still feel so guilty/bad I wouldn't sleep, odd I know but that's me.
tabetha
#55
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (4)
master
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-SER...item563cd1eeab
This the right slave?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SERIES-2-AND-2...item53e228e1e9
Brake Fluid Reservoir
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HEL-Front-Brak...item3ca853bc36
5/16" rose joint L/hand
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5-16-x-5-16-L-...item587d3b92e5
or
R/hand
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5-16-x-5-16-UN...item587d5baef1
Misalignment spacers
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rose-Joint-mis...item5adad3fb69
This is probably a better slave ?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-E30-E21-E2...item41512366b1
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-SER...item563cd1eeab
This the right slave?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SERIES-2-AND-2...item53e228e1e9
Brake Fluid Reservoir
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HEL-Front-Brak...item3ca853bc36
5/16" rose joint L/hand
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5-16-x-5-16-L-...item587d3b92e5
or
R/hand
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5-16-x-5-16-UN...item587d5baef1
Misalignment spacers
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rose-Joint-mis...item5adad3fb69
This is probably a better slave ?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-E30-E21-E2...item41512366b1
Last edited by Miller 3; 19-07-2010 at 01:33 PM.
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Xrphwoar (24-01-2017)
#64
20K+ Super Poster.
Thread Starter
Thats the stuff I use in the link apart from the reservoir, which I already had, and is the same as the kit in the piccie.
The slave I use comes without a rod, but no biggE, just measure the length needed and cut to size, I use a rod that I have also threaded, along with the master end, so I can set the pedal 4" above the brake pedal or right on the floor should anyone need/want to, just saying you can never have enough adjustability, mine is set about 1 3/4" above the brake pedal, as my left leg is 1 1/2" shorter, so ideal for me, the main reason for doing it, the way I do the arm there is NO WELDING needed, so long as you can drill a hole and work a spanner, the angled part goes through the hole drilled in the arm, is then bolted up tight on reverse side of arm(std of part goes through hole in arm), then rotated till it sits at correct angle, job jobbed.
The reason I chose a unlikley candidate is due to availability, the LR RR cylinders I use have been used on so many things from firetrucks/guncarriers/floating bridges/plod vans/cars/ambulances and more variations likley than any other vehicle ever produced by anybody in the 52 YEARS it has been around, you will have much better chance of being able to find a part than pretty much anything else.
There's shed loads of these series 2, built between 58-71 still going that spares keep having to be remade, not bad considering what they do.
The bmw cylinder will work just the same though if you go that route, doesn't really matter.
tabetha
The slave I use comes without a rod, but no biggE, just measure the length needed and cut to size, I use a rod that I have also threaded, along with the master end, so I can set the pedal 4" above the brake pedal or right on the floor should anyone need/want to, just saying you can never have enough adjustability, mine is set about 1 3/4" above the brake pedal, as my left leg is 1 1/2" shorter, so ideal for me, the main reason for doing it, the way I do the arm there is NO WELDING needed, so long as you can drill a hole and work a spanner, the angled part goes through the hole drilled in the arm, is then bolted up tight on reverse side of arm(std of part goes through hole in arm), then rotated till it sits at correct angle, job jobbed.
The reason I chose a unlikley candidate is due to availability, the LR RR cylinders I use have been used on so many things from firetrucks/guncarriers/floating bridges/plod vans/cars/ambulances and more variations likley than any other vehicle ever produced by anybody in the 52 YEARS it has been around, you will have much better chance of being able to find a part than pretty much anything else.
There's shed loads of these series 2, built between 58-71 still going that spares keep having to be remade, not bad considering what they do.
The bmw cylinder will work just the same though if you go that route, doesn't really matter.
tabetha
#65
20K+ Super Poster.
Thread Starter
tabetha
#66
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (5)
dead easy just a shame you need to take the box out which is a big job on a 4x4 its about two or three hours for the bulk head on an ecos as you need steering coloum out fuse box down and pedal box out for drilling then six hours for the gearbox! only ten mins to fix the slave
#71
20K+ Super Poster.
Thread Starter
Pedal is all sorted, taking box out this afternoon, then will be taking piccies and measurements to try and make a easy "non" box removal install, can do it no probs using a pull cylinder but this bumps the price up by £35, but I don't think anyone doing a diy conversion would be bothered about that with the savings, pity I didn't take some pressure readings first, as that would have been very interesting as well.
I know opposite lock wants his hydraulic, would be good on his to take before and after readings, but know from other sierras converted to hydraulic the pressure is way less than 1/2 the pressure needed once converted to hydraulic, will keep this updated, just measuring a dipstick at the mo, and making one for someone if need be, got to weigh my block, crank, rods, pistons, head etc etc today, then assemble it all, but looking at a mercury grey sapphy first thing(9am).
tabetha
I know opposite lock wants his hydraulic, would be good on his to take before and after readings, but know from other sierras converted to hydraulic the pressure is way less than 1/2 the pressure needed once converted to hydraulic, will keep this updated, just measuring a dipstick at the mo, and making one for someone if need be, got to weigh my block, crank, rods, pistons, head etc etc today, then assemble it all, but looking at a mercury grey sapphy first thing(9am).
tabetha
#73
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#75
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (2)
I'm DIY'ing mine.
Girling master cylinder from
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/ad...aster+cylinder
Concentric release bearing etc
Girling master cylinder from
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/ad...aster+cylinder
Concentric release bearing etc
#76
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I'm DIY'ing mine.
Girling master cylinder from
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/ad...aster+cylinder
Concentric release bearing etc
Girling master cylinder from
http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/ad...aster+cylinder
Concentric release bearing etc
Btw, is the lock nut missing from the rod on your mater cylinder?
#77
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (2)
Page 37 in link
http://www.realsteel.co.uk/section2b.pdf
I had no other way of doing my conversion due to odball home brew bellhousing
Lock nut is not fitted as it was only a mock up before the car got stripped for bodywork.
#78
PassionFord Post Troll
iTrader: (3)
I don't have part numbers of the bits, I used LANDROVER series 2/2a master cylinder and slave cylinder, £26.58 the pair delivered, re seal kits are £3!!
The rose joints I used were 5/16", about £4, used some alloy I had to make the adjuster, one end is left hand thread, the other end is std right hand thread, so as it is turned it gets longer or shorter without having to disconnect a thing.
Left hand thread rose joints easy to get, got all my parts from begay.
Owing to the cost for anyone contemplating this of the left hand tap needed to cut that thread, if wanting to do it that way I'm more than happy to do this FOC(just postage £1, in a padded envelope).
You could do it with a regular right hand thread, though as the rod coming from the master cylinder will spin no probs, I just didn't think about this at the time!!
If you look near the area where the pipes from the brake master cyl go and bend just as they get near the bulkhead about 4" away from brake cylinder, you will notice the sound deadening is held on with a plastic clip to the bulkhead onto a threaded stud sticking out of the bulkhead, this is the CENTRE point for your first hole, this will be for the clutch master cyl centre, it later bored out to as needed in my case 35mm, I have some blacksmiths bits up to 56m, but could only find my smaller set in the piccie.
Sorting me gearbox end this week, as well as starting engine rebuild, had a bit of a problem finding std size big ends and mains, even more amazing for 200K miles!!.
Been sorting out me PAS cooler today, and making some reinforcement pipes/tubes for brakes/calipers.
I'm more than happy to help anyone who asks, but mods please note I charge only to cover my material and post costs, certainly not going to be a millionaire from this.
I've recently ordered some 6.9mm drill bits as this is the correct size hole for the 5/16 rod ends, I did mine at 7mm and plenty good strong as anything, but would be happier with 6.9, also ordered some 11.4mm drills for the 5/8 joints I have, ffs talk about pricey for 11.4mm bit, can find lathe ones all day, centre fed ones, at a good price, but not std.
tabetha
The rose joints I used were 5/16", about £4, used some alloy I had to make the adjuster, one end is left hand thread, the other end is std right hand thread, so as it is turned it gets longer or shorter without having to disconnect a thing.
Left hand thread rose joints easy to get, got all my parts from begay.
Owing to the cost for anyone contemplating this of the left hand tap needed to cut that thread, if wanting to do it that way I'm more than happy to do this FOC(just postage £1, in a padded envelope).
You could do it with a regular right hand thread, though as the rod coming from the master cylinder will spin no probs, I just didn't think about this at the time!!
If you look near the area where the pipes from the brake master cyl go and bend just as they get near the bulkhead about 4" away from brake cylinder, you will notice the sound deadening is held on with a plastic clip to the bulkhead onto a threaded stud sticking out of the bulkhead, this is the CENTRE point for your first hole, this will be for the clutch master cyl centre, it later bored out to as needed in my case 35mm, I have some blacksmiths bits up to 56m, but could only find my smaller set in the piccie.
Sorting me gearbox end this week, as well as starting engine rebuild, had a bit of a problem finding std size big ends and mains, even more amazing for 200K miles!!.
Been sorting out me PAS cooler today, and making some reinforcement pipes/tubes for brakes/calipers.
I'm more than happy to help anyone who asks, but mods please note I charge only to cover my material and post costs, certainly not going to be a millionaire from this.
I've recently ordered some 6.9mm drill bits as this is the correct size hole for the 5/16 rod ends, I did mine at 7mm and plenty good strong as anything, but would be happier with 6.9, also ordered some 11.4mm drills for the 5/8 joints I have, ffs talk about pricey for 11.4mm bit, can find lathe ones all day, centre fed ones, at a good price, but not std.
tabetha
. Not the accuracy of it but just the sheer pureness in the way you can read (almost hear him without knowing him ) within it .
Mike
#79
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (2)
Very good info here down to the nitty gritty , this is proper forum material just read it folks and it shows the thoroughness of giving what HE found and giving us all of it seemingly accurately too.
. Not the accuracy of it but just the sheer pureness in the way you can read (almost hear him without knowing him ) within it .
Mike
. Not the accuracy of it but just the sheer pureness in the way you can read (almost hear him without knowing him ) within it .
Mike
Last edited by Mark V8; 01-06-2013 at 10:49 PM.