nufink but problems
#41
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im tryin to read the flash code faults on my cozy. it flashes 3 times slow ,twice. then 6 times realy fast, twice. does any body no wot this means plz?
#42
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Go to www.bigturbo.co.uk and click on fault codes (great site BTW!).
It seems that for the 3 slow flashes twice:
on a 2WD cossie it means MAP open circuit - check sensor, wiring
Or on a 4WD cossie, it means TPS short or open circuit - check sensor, wiring
Doesn't show anything for the six flashes you said.
The site may also tell you how to test your sensors. My suggestion would be to fix the above fault with the 3-3 flashes (note 2WD or 4WD), and then see how you go with another test after that.
Good luck!
It seems that for the 3 slow flashes twice:
on a 2WD cossie it means MAP open circuit - check sensor, wiring
Or on a 4WD cossie, it means TPS short or open circuit - check sensor, wiring
Doesn't show anything for the six flashes you said.
The site may also tell you how to test your sensors. My suggestion would be to fix the above fault with the 3-3 flashes (note 2WD or 4WD), and then see how you go with another test after that.
Good luck!
#43
Advanced PassionFord User
The six fast flashes just separate the error results and are not an error. As stated 3 and 3 is map sensor. After the quick flashes the 3 and 3 should show again or it will show the next error if there is one and keep looping through the errors until you stop the test.
#44
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iv changed the air charge sensor. the coolant sensor n the crank sensor 2day. now it wont start. mayb i got a prob with 1 of the wires? gona try n check them 2moro
#45
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so my cozy ecu is defo flashin an open map fault. its overfuelin that much is blownin fuel out of the exhaust manifold gasket. iv changed the coolant temp sensor an the air sensor. n now i cant get it to start.!
im gona try n check the wirering now.
how can i check the map sensor itself?
any other ideas peeps? thanx
im gona try n check the wirering now.
how can i check the map sensor itself?
any other ideas peeps? thanx
#46
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Easiest way is to find an understanding mate who will lend you his known to be working MAP sensor and you can swap them over and see if your car runs.
If your engine has as much fuel in it as you say, I would take out the spark plugs and let some of the fuel evaporate out before you try starting it again with the new/mate's MAP sensor.
Again, you can't beat taking your car to someone who knows what they're doing. You have PJ Motorsport near you in Wolverhampton who are great with Cossies. At least give them a call for advice 01902862882 or 01902862880 and www.pjmotorsportltd.co.uk
If your engine has as much fuel in it as you say, I would take out the spark plugs and let some of the fuel evaporate out before you try starting it again with the new/mate's MAP sensor.
Again, you can't beat taking your car to someone who knows what they're doing. You have PJ Motorsport near you in Wolverhampton who are great with Cossies. At least give them a call for advice 01902862882 or 01902862880 and www.pjmotorsportltd.co.uk
#49
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Is it confirmed the engine is in good health, as per my previous post along with others I suspect not? If the car does still not start check the CPS connector (Loom Side), these suffer from bad connections, make sure the pins inside have not moved. The ACT will not prevent the car from starting, the CPS will.
The MAP sensor creates a voltage proportional to the boost/vacuum applied so you could easy test with a multimeter the hard part is applying the boost/vacuum to generate the voltage.
The sensors are normally reliable and I would not go changing sensors unless they are definitely faulty as you are wasting your money.
The problems you are having with overfueling do sound like a MAP sensor if you get another make sure to get a 2 BAR map sensor, (Stg 1) IMO your car needs the boost turned down a bit as your running 17/18 PSI (Presuming thats held) your MAP sensor can only see 1 BAR so you are risking running lean.
I presume you have checked the phase sensor as this is one sensor that can have wiring problems (You could just unplug) the car should still run although will overfuel as running batch injection.
Martin
The MAP sensor creates a voltage proportional to the boost/vacuum applied so you could easy test with a multimeter the hard part is applying the boost/vacuum to generate the voltage.
The sensors are normally reliable and I would not go changing sensors unless they are definitely faulty as you are wasting your money.
The problems you are having with overfueling do sound like a MAP sensor if you get another make sure to get a 2 BAR map sensor, (Stg 1) IMO your car needs the boost turned down a bit as your running 17/18 PSI (Presuming thats held) your MAP sensor can only see 1 BAR so you are risking running lean.
I presume you have checked the phase sensor as this is one sensor that can have wiring problems (You could just unplug) the car should still run although will overfuel as running batch injection.
Martin
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#53
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put a new map sensor on n my flash code has gone
just cleaning the spark plugs n lettin the fuel out the engine evaporate now. it shud work in a bit . hopefully
just cleaning the spark plugs n lettin the fuel out the engine evaporate now. it shud work in a bit . hopefully
#54
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it lives!!!!! . it was just the map sensor. puttin the air cone on must of just pushed it that last bit. cheers 4 the advise every1 . just got 2 change d oil now
#58
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Glad its fixed. A standard tired cossie engine can use aprrox 1 - 1.5 litres of oil per 1000 miles. It wont leak onto the drive, it will just use it internally. Bore clearances, tired valve stem seals etc. You need to keep an eye on it Mark. A cossie that uses more oil than fuel is shot.
Get it to a pro as well as too much boost = dead engine as well, especailly in high gears under load for sustained periods.
Get it to a pro as well as too much boost = dead engine as well, especailly in high gears under load for sustained periods.
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I know this car I kinda knew the previous owner and mate of mine told me he was selling it but I was dragging my heels to go and look at it as I knew I'd buy it for an everyday car that I didn't need
Good luck with it
Good luck with it
#60
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yesterday i sed my car was holding boost at 1bar fine. well 2day iv took the air box off it again n put this air cone back on. n now it trying 2 boost at bar again.!!
im gona have 2 put the box back on it but y is it doin this?
do i need a 3 bar map sensor n ecu tune 4 an air cone
im gona have 2 put the box back on it but y is it doin this?
do i need a 3 bar map sensor n ecu tune 4 an air cone
#62
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The saga continues.....
Its been running fine, but its starting knockin or rattling pat 3000 revs. iv took it a few places now. all asked me wot oil ive got in it and told me 2 go thicker.
the engine place by me was certain its the pistons with 2much clearance due 2 bore wash.
iv dun 3 oil changes in 3 weeks now. i started with 5/30. then 10/40. now im on 20/50.
it does seem 2 b beta but the noise is still there.
u can only here it when im parked n i give it a rev.
i havnt lost power but i am fearin the worst. propa doin my head in!!!
Any ideas wot cud b knocking? its not loud. its not tappits. its a bit deeper.??
its dun120000 . how much is a rebuild gona cost me?!!??
Its been running fine, but its starting knockin or rattling pat 3000 revs. iv took it a few places now. all asked me wot oil ive got in it and told me 2 go thicker.
the engine place by me was certain its the pistons with 2much clearance due 2 bore wash.
iv dun 3 oil changes in 3 weeks now. i started with 5/30. then 10/40. now im on 20/50.
it does seem 2 b beta but the noise is still there.
u can only here it when im parked n i give it a rev.
i havnt lost power but i am fearin the worst. propa doin my head in!!!
Any ideas wot cud b knocking? its not loud. its not tappits. its a bit deeper.??
its dun120000 . how much is a rebuild gona cost me?!!??
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