4x4 YB Timing belt change
#1
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4x4 YB Timing belt change
I take it I will have to take the radiator (or at least the fans) off, if I want to change the timing belt on my 4x4 Cossie? Or is there any hidden trick?
Also, there's oil on the old belt so I take it some of the seals are knackered. How hard are they to replace (the crank and camshaft ones)?
Also, there's oil on the old belt so I take it some of the seals are knackered. How hard are they to replace (the crank and camshaft ones)?
#2
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Can be done without removing fans or rad, bit tight pushing ratchet head past fan shroud to line up for undoing, but do able.
If there is oil on the belt, it's most likely from cam/crank/aux seal, all fairly easy to the crank one a bit fiddly, but a old screw wound in the outer edge and pulled with pliers soon has the seal out.
Use VITON if it is the cam seal/s, if only one I would do both anyway, Viton about £9 each but vastly better than std ones, as they are specific high temp seals.
tabetha
If there is oil on the belt, it's most likely from cam/crank/aux seal, all fairly easy to the crank one a bit fiddly, but a old screw wound in the outer edge and pulled with pliers soon has the seal out.
Use VITON if it is the cam seal/s, if only one I would do both anyway, Viton about £9 each but vastly better than std ones, as they are specific high temp seals.
tabetha
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Save yourself alot of hassle mate and take the radiator and intercooler out so you have good access, theres no point pissing about with all the fans in the way. You need to remove the aux belt which should just be sprung loaded, and then you need a puller to pull the bottom cranky pulley off.
A little trick I do is just use tipex or something to mark all the pulleys to something like the block. You dont HAVE to do this as all the pulleys have their timing marks, but they can be hard to see with dirt and other crap in the engine.
Worth doing the cam seals if there is oil but also just inspect and make sure the rocker cover isnt leaking fromt he front which would signal leaking half moon seals under rocker cover.
An extra pair of hands can come in handy aswell at the end when it comes to tensioning the belt.
A little trick I do is just use tipex or something to mark all the pulleys to something like the block. You dont HAVE to do this as all the pulleys have their timing marks, but they can be hard to see with dirt and other crap in the engine.
Worth doing the cam seals if there is oil but also just inspect and make sure the rocker cover isnt leaking fromt he front which would signal leaking half moon seals under rocker cover.
An extra pair of hands can come in handy aswell at the end when it comes to tensioning the belt.
Last edited by fatmike; 10-10-2009 at 08:02 PM.
#4
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You don't automatically need a puller for the pulley, if they are put on with a little prep they will slide off as mine does with little finger pressure.
DON'T apply loctite when torquing back up, I have never needed to remove the fans yet, pulley comes off with a few mm to spare.
tabetha
DON'T apply loctite when torquing back up, I have never needed to remove the fans yet, pulley comes off with a few mm to spare.
tabetha
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Yes but that is in a perfect world, In reality most have been on for a while, are seized etc so theres no point expecting to be able to pull it off with your fingers lol. It's best to prepare for the worst scenario rather than attempting the job with piss all tools and realising half way through.
Mind you, I wish I could of gotten mine off with a slight pull.
Mind you, I wish I could of gotten mine off with a slight pull.
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First time I replaced mine was a pain in the ass!!! I removed the funs and the radiator and then I made a tool to hold the pulley and used a socket with a 1m long extension pipe to loose the bolt! After that I made a puller to pull the pulley out and the previous owner (or garage that was repairing the car) wasn't so kind with the pulley; I found marks on the pulley and the sump from a bar or something I guess...
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