are arp stud/nut kits re-useable?
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are arp stud/nut kits re-useable?
hi peeps.
i have just removed the head from my 3 door due to an awesome head gasket failure lol, and have found the engine already has a stud & nut kit fitted, so i need to know if they're re-useable or if you need to change the studs each time. any info would be much appreciated.
cheeRS
i have just removed the head from my 3 door due to an awesome head gasket failure lol, and have found the engine already has a stud & nut kit fitted, so i need to know if they're re-useable or if you need to change the studs each time. any info would be much appreciated.
cheeRS
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thanks alot tabetha, i have been looking at other threads regarding stud & nut torques, if the faces of my head & block are good enough for a metal head gasket should i still go for 80 lbs of torque with some fresh moly lube? any help is much apreciated.
#6
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I can't answer that as will not use a metal gasket myself, I use group a, as it's fibrous nature is much better to cope with any movement between head and block due to expansion, or slightly less than perfect surfaces.
tabetha
tabetha
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^^^ as old tabby said, you need absolutly spot on surfaces to run a metal gasket. I thought my block was pretty much sound so I tried a cometic gasket, its already weeping from less than 50miles use. Im going back to a grpA jobby, as they are much more forgiving.
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it was a victor reinz grp a that blew running 380bhp so was thinking of a metal wrc one. do fibrous grp a's usually handle that sort of power? just don't want to be stripping it again halfway through the summer!!!
#9
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Did you REST the gasket when fitting, the VR gasket will do this power dead easy.
When they are torqued up, with ARP, properly fitted and butted to shoulder depth, it is best to wait at least two hours then retorque, as the gasket will compress, I torque mine to 120lbft, without any problems, with just a smidgen of oil on threads.
tabetha
When they are torqued up, with ARP, properly fitted and butted to shoulder depth, it is best to wait at least two hours then retorque, as the gasket will compress, I torque mine to 120lbft, without any problems, with just a smidgen of oil on threads.
tabetha
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hmmm, think i will try a new reinz gasket then and fit it as per your last post. thanks very much for your help tabetha, will hopefully be up and running again next week. cheeRS
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I can only say what tabatha says, some cars in denmark a over 400bhp now, and still running strong.
I torque 40nm 80nm, wait 20min and finally 120nm, then go over again on 120nm.
Then get the engine up to bot (fan start) let it cool off for a day, then loosen one bolt half a round and torque 120nm, then next bolt loosen half a round and torque 120nm etc etc.
always ALWAYS remember to re-tighten after engine has been to normal temp the first time, u will be amased how much you can tighten the bolts after engine has been hot, but after warm up everything has settled and you need to re-tighten cause the bolts dont stretch
I torque 40nm 80nm, wait 20min and finally 120nm, then go over again on 120nm.
Then get the engine up to bot (fan start) let it cool off for a day, then loosen one bolt half a round and torque 120nm, then next bolt loosen half a round and torque 120nm etc etc.
always ALWAYS remember to re-tighten after engine has been to normal temp the first time, u will be amased how much you can tighten the bolts after engine has been hot, but after warm up everything has settled and you need to re-tighten cause the bolts dont stretch
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