bad boy rs

iTrader: (7)

Ive noticed ive been loosing a touch off water every no an then so i had

a goose under the saph at the weekend and my good friend joers22

pointed out that my rad is pretty much hanging

Is it worth going down the ali route or jus stick with the original item ?

Ive seen a few on e bay ranging from 150 right up to 350quid

thanks paul

Nash

iTrader: (3)

You could just get yours recored as that would be the cheapest route. If you are not seeing high temps with the standard set up theres no real reason to change.

bad boy rs

iTrader: (7)

How much am i looking at for that ?

silky16v

iTrader: (1)

standard radiator is perfectly fine, plenty of 2nd hand 1's on ebay steer clear the cheap copys on ebay they ain't anywhere near as good as the OEM rad

bad boy rs

iTrader: (7)

Im only realy going as far as stage 3 so the standard item is fine, Can

they still be bought new ? what exactly is a re core ?

JoeRS22

iTrader: (2)

they bassically re-con your old one paul, you have to mod the fan switch with ali ones.

Nash

iTrader: (3)

As above and the last time i had one done it cost me Ł65 for a copper core.

tabetha

If your end tanks on your rad are ok, they can merely put a new core in, ie recore by renewing the matrix part, personally I wouldn't bother with s/h, just go to a commercial place that does rads they will do this easy, prices of rads due to metal prices have gone up significantly.
The std one would be fine at stage 3, but alloy would be more effecient, the cooling system is VERY marginal to start with though, only just about adequate, so up to you whether to upgrade, but you can always panel in your rad for better effeciency, and take off the air deflector if fitted, as this will help no end.
Since fitting a alloy rad to mine with std fan switch I have not noticed ANY difference in time on of the fan as sugested compared with std rad, but don't use the switch now, the problem with the std switch is the span of 10C, whereas 3C-4C is more normal.
tabetha

KSA-Cossie

iTrader: (4)

Radtec rad from rapid ford if it was me m8.

AndyPen

iTrader: (24)

I have an xs power rad and certainly noticed better cooling - think its 50mm deep.

I did have to change the fan switch in it as well though as the standard one cut in way too early when temps were around 75 degrees in the block. The one from Stu sorted that for me and it kicks in at around 88 degrees now.

Mines an rs500 so the big intercooler restricts the rad mind you. Running fast never was much of a problem - traffic is the hassle for me.

tabetha

When my laptop is connected up it shows the std switch coming on at 87C, then staying on till 77C, which is way too cold, this was a std switch on a alloy rad, with RS500 cooler in front.
It is very interesting to see the i/cooler soaking up rad heat on rollers when idling though, not a problem on the move of course.
I don't use it now and set it to come on at 90C and off at 87C, so it cycles better, takes about 60-90 secs to drop this much.
The main problem with the std switch etc is that the stat is trying to keep it above it's temp so they are fighting each other!!
tabetha