Char1ie

iTrader: (6)

This Saturday I will attempt to remove all 16 wheel studs from my 2WD Sapphire track car by beating them out with a bloody great hammer. I am worried about bending them so that I can't get them out, or doing some damage to the holes they fit in.

I have a set of 16 longer studs to replace them. I don't like jobs that involve smacking things with a hammer.

Words of encouragement, advice or warning appreciated.


Charlie

Richie.

iTrader: (5)

Easiest way is to remove caliper and disc. Then knock the old ones out with a decent hammer. They won't bend if you hit them nice and square. Just make sure the one you're knocking out lines up with the gap in the hubs so they don't get stuck.

Fit new ones and pull them through with a couple of washers on the hub face and an old wheel nut. Very important to keep checking the torque of the wheel nuts for the first say 1000 mile in case any of the new studs don't seat 100%.

Char1ie

iTrader: (6)

Good advice. Thanks.

I'm off to Brands on the 25th for track time. The car will be trailered there but I'll be checking the tightness every few laps.

Charlie

AndyPen

iTrader: (24)

Just to say that mine tapped out easily mate - as said - just be sure there is a gap behind to let them pop out. I put an old nut over the end of the thread to protect it (and periodically made sure it span off easily of course)

I had to bend the rear disc cover slightly but thats the only thing I'd comment on - they were all done in situ and it took about 45 minutes.

Good idea to keep checking that they are seated

Ridgey

iTrader: (5)

Nut on the end is a good idea before hammering.

Char1ie

iTrader: (6)

I wondered if a nut on the end might be a potential problem. I was thinking that a hard enough whack with the hammer may damage the thread, making the nut impossible to get off again, meaning that I would have to cut the stud off.

But I may try it.


Charlie

Ridgey

iTrader: (5)

It just stops you from bending (bulging) the end of the stud so you can't get it out.
Doubt you would have an issue as long as you put it on so it is flush with the end of the stud, creating a larger surface to hit.

dojj

iTrader: (3)

don't bother with the nut on the end
just turn the wheel when you've removed the brakes and they'll ping out after a few deft blows on the fronts
when yuo put them back in again tap them in witht he hammer once you've got them seated with your hands (this won't work with the rears unfortunatly) and then use an old steel wheel wheelnut to draw them tight useing the brake disc to pull them through

on the rears you'll need to knock them out and insert them with the hole at the top of the hub as there is more space there

they've got a knurlde bit ont he ends to lock them into palce so once they are tight enough (or as tight as you think they will go, you'll feel them getting tighter and tighter and then they'll get really tight when they've seated) remove the disc and visually see that they are in flush as they can go

Char1ie

iTrader: (6)

OK. More good advice. Anything I can do to help them ease out? Heat? WD40?

Charlie

AndyPen

iTrader: (24)

I would be wary of using heat myself - might distort things???