godzilla

iTrader: (1)

I have decided.....im going to get a Saph Cossie in the new year (should have enough money by March......i hope!) Always loved them since I first saw one many years ago. Im 34 next year and have decided to get my childhood dream!

Think a 4X4 might be a bit easier for me as the majority of 2wd's are all running 270+bhp, bit much for someone who is not used to rear wheel driven cars! Ive driven many fast cars, all being front wheel drive though!!

Going to do some research tonight on buying a Sapphire Cosworth tonight, any tips though, most common problems to look for?

mechanic28

iTrader: (5)

2wd dont handle bad fella as long as you respect them


useful link for chassis details


http://www.wrc-cosworth.org/specs/identify.html

big mac

iTrader: (7)

4x4 good all rounder i run one daily and have 2wd as a toy but 2wd is more fun and well set up will only misbehave if provoke or in wet cheaper 2 buy 2! Make sure you have good look round there is some shit around but good cars are out there!

TurboShed

If in doubt financially, don't bother, else it will suck you dry

stevecossy

I had to wait years to buy 1 too but its worth the wait buddy ya will not regret it if ya get a good 1. But as above they can suck ya wallet dry very easy. good luck.

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Most of them have had a hard life. So be carefull when your lookin for 1. I would buy 1 that has had the head gasket done perferably a group A head gasket just for piece of mind. Also dont buy the 1st one you see. Have a good look round to.

tabetha

A good point there don't just buy the first one cause you get excited, so easy to do.
Rust will be the major issue as they are getting on a bit, a two year old can look after a cossie servicing wise.
I would personally NOT get a std one, as they are a bit lame, I think stage 1 is nice around 270 or so, loads and loads more torque make it a nicer drive, and safer IMO, if you do get in a bit of trouble there is a load more torque to get out of the way, should be better on the fuel as well.
Don't pay over the odds if you do want a std one, as you may well want to mod so might as well get one with all the mods done anyway.
As for the headgasket, the std one is no good even on a std car driven gently, they age as does everything, it would be better if already done to a group a preferably with ARP stud and nut kit as well.
I always assume all the history is lies, so go on the basis that you will have to spend some money on it.
Look around the block carefully for signs of a weepy headgasket, I have used KALIMEX K-SEAL in the past as a temp measure on these but it lasted for around 3000 miles!!
If you can take someone with you who knows about cars, even better if they are familiar with cossie's, certainly for the test drive, where you need to get it hot enough so the fans come in, watch the owners face carefully to see if he starts pooping himself about a dodgy headgasket!!
tabetha

xr_craig

iTrader: (2)

A lot of people have said only buy one if you can afford to buy it twice - pretty good advice really, especially if you need to use it daily

TurboShed

I bought the cheapest one I could find on eBay. 10 owners. HPI listed. No history. No engine number. Owner wasn't on the V5. etc. etc. etc.

But, I promised myself a Cossie if I could give up smoking - so 3 years later and still off the Cigs - THE COSSIE HAS PAID FOR ITSELF

PSL

Get yourself registered on the RSOC (if you're not already).

There is a full buyers guide on the site explaining what to look out for, do's and dont's etc.

Well worth a read before you go and shell out on one!!

Staffi

iTrader: (1)

That's crap for a start, you get a good one, have it checked, mapped fueling etc, they'll look after you allday long..

big mac

iTrader: (7)

Agree with that regular oil and water checks and servicing my 4x4 is used every day no probs!

col cos1

iTrader: (5)

ha ha bet yours is mint


only joking

Jimboxr4x4

I'm just the same as you - wanted a cossie for ten years before getting one at 33. I've had mine for 10 months now and its been great. When I picked mine up and drove it home it was fantastic.

I actually bought the first one I looked at but it is a nice car, only 2 previous owners and loads of receipts. Always get it properly set up as for the cost of a set-up (about £150) you will get peace of mind and the car will drive a lot better once set up properly. Once i'd got the car home I didn't drive it again for a couple of weeks so I could change all of the oils and fluids. Definately worth doing in my opinion.

Whereabouts are you? If you want someone to come and have a look with you i'm sure someone of here would oblige.

When I started looking I typed out a checklist - its by no means definitive but should give you a few ideas what to look for. Good luck.


CHECKLIST

Bodywork

• Rear arches
• Front arches
• Boot floor, especially above exhaust side. Also pull up to check inner rear panels
• Suspension tops
• Battery tray
• Any welding on underside? Chassis rails, sills etc.
• Consistant panel gaps
• Colour match. Any paint work been done?
• Around sunroof. Can bubble up around it.


Interior

• Heater working
• Cracked dash
• Headlining sagging
• Staining around sunroof (seals failing)

Engine

• White sludge on filler cap (head gasket)
• Header tank oily film on top of coolant (head gasket)
• White smoke – turbo shot. If so remove hose from turbo inlet to airbox and feel for play in turbo impellor. A little play is okay
• Blue smoke on boost means tired turbo oil seals
• Constant blue smoke means engine rebuild
• Slight misfire under acceleration is common
• Cambelt change? Should be every 48k miles
• Rev engine when stationary and look for twist in engine (mounts or driveshafts)
• Run up to temp and check fans cut in

Identity

• Check V5 numbers match slam panel and panel under carpet (check surrounding areas for signs of fresh paint or welding. Prefix should be BFGC4

Transmission

• Crunching through gears means worn synchro (except reverse)
• Listen for whining from box and diffs
• Uprated clutch?

Electrics

• Remote releases for boot and petrol filler
• Look for frayed or damaged wiring in engine bay

Paperwork

• V5 (check previous keepers)
• When does MOT expire?
• Previous MOTs
• Receipts for work
• Power output?
• CAT 1 Thatcham alarm and documentation?
• Who did the head recondition? What involved?

Buying

• RAC hpi check (re written off stolen recovered etc) 0800 975 5867 (£20) or Hpi 0845 300 8905 (£42) or AA 0800 056 8040 (£40 & free mileage info)
• Receipt for deposit

godzilla

iTrader: (1)

Thanks very much mate, ive just printed this info off!

I live in Milton Keynes (Roundabout City!). I see your S London.....near Bromley? I have family there!

tabetha

MK is not far from me, about 90 miles.
Bung someone some petrol money, I am sure they will help.
Does anyone remember Mike Brewer telling people to look for white sludge on the filler cap of the PORSCHE 911 when buying.
Neat trick having water leaks inside an air cooled engine!!
tabetha

KSA-Cossie

iTrader: (4)

Mine too.

tabetha

Bodywork, the car is a minimum of 15 years old, it will not be perfect, if I saw a car with no rust I would walk away, but if I saw a car that had new panels here and there that would ensure they are not going to need doing.
As for panel gaps, this is a FORD, they were not great when new let alone 15 years old.White sludge on filler cap could just be a car that does short journeys, or just started up now and again.
Blue smoke does NOT mean turbo gone there could be a whole host of reasons, like the wrong oil, old oil etc.
NO MISFIRE IS ACCEPTABLE EVER, and certainly NOT normal, not in a million years.
Cambelt, do it anyway with tensioner every 25,000.
Engine twist is normal, it is the extent that is the issue but any that are shot can still pass the twist test but vibrate on driving, driveshafts have NOTHING to do with engine twist.
Crunching through gears, if it has auprated clutch could be caused by driver not FULLY depressing clutch, as they are a bit hairy and need all 100% of the travel to be used, mine is the same.
Remote release for filler cap/boot only later ones, earlyones did not have it.
In an ideal world you would lok for everything, I am not trying to be critical here, but lack of knowledge could see you walking away from a good one that needs a little TLC.
As for history, if from a dealer assume it is all lies and you won't go far wrong.
I would never in a million years trust on any car ever that the belt/tensioner had been done, and would always do it as a matter of course, easiest engine in the world to do as well.
tabetha

R5FORD

iTrader: (1)

go 2wd mate..dosent take to much toime toi get used to it main point is to respect them

ISB RS

Hi mate,

I do agree that the 2wd must be respected in the wet, but they are so much fun to drive.

I fell in love with the first one I saw, but turned out to be a gooden. I would recommend you see a few as they are getting on a bit.....

I have had my 1988 2wd sapp cossie for 12 years now, brought standard from Essex Sports Cars back in the day, now stage 1 amhed bayjoo tuned and it is the best car i have ever owned.

Key to cossie ownership is to maintain it, reg oil changes, services, and it will respect you..

Defo respect the Sapp RS Cossie! go for it mate

R5COS

ill second that hope ya have deep pockets if ya wanna keep her right

m_nettleship

GO 2WD, TEBETHA IS SPOT ON, WEN U PRINTED JIMBOS STATMENT OUT, CHUCK IT IN THE BIN!!!!

charlie luciano

iTrader: (3)

The old saying goes "if you can't buy a cossie twice its purchase price then don't get one"



Luciano

Jimboxr4x4

tabetha
It was supposed to be a checklist to give you ideas what to look for.

I certainly wouldn't walk away from a car with no rust. My car has no rust and still has original panels. If well looked after there are plenty of 15 year old cars with no rust.

I don't agree with your remark about panel gaps. The Fords i've owned have never had uneven panel gaps.

I also never said a misfire is 'acceptable'. I said it was 'common' which it is on many cossies and doesn't mean it has a problem that can't be solved with a setup.

Its a basic checklist, I did not say that each of those symptoms was definately that problem. It stood me in good stead and i've had no problems whatsoever with mine.

Jimboxr4x4

m_nettleship
Thanks for your constructive imput. Godzilla asked I think my list is a bit better than your one line advice

big mac

iTrader: (7)

Think jimbo was quite informative if in doubt take someone who knows

TurboShed

I've said it before and I'll say it again, Cossies were MADE to be everyday cars.

big mac

iTrader: (7)

agree with that they are tough as old boot
they only become unreliable when heavily tuned or lack of maintainance
as ppl including my self have said regular servicing and checks and their as good as gold

i love owning a legend and everybody has the highest respect for these cars even today

good luck in your search godzilla

the saint

iTrader: (1)

we`ve had 6 sapphs and all of them apart from my sapph now has been in daily use and as above if serviced and driven with some respect they will be fine.

when i say respect i mean you drive sensible when you need to and give it a good clearout as and when you want really lol, worked for all of ours one was a 4x4 which was totally standard and it drove bloody lovely just down on power but then we`re used to stg3 cars and more lol

charlie luciano

iTrader: (3)

Yes but that was over decade ago when they were brand new



Luciano

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Cossies are so addictive once you have owned or driven 1 thats it your hooked.

big mac

iTrader: (7)

Aint that the truth! Lol

charlie luciano

iTrader: (3)

Amen to that very hard to get these cars out of ya system



Luciano

TurboShed

Cossies are like women, you spend your spare time and money buying shiny things for them - and you don't resent it.

Moonstone Steve.

iTrader: (2)

A nice magenta saph in the for sale section

Steve

the saint

iTrader: (1)

damn right theyre addictive they make even the tightest of men spend money for no reason at all

Ebonycossie4x4

iTrader: (4)

addictive aint the word. Ive been a car trader for the last few years now and could buy from a whole host of fast cars and i sold my 54 plate sti to change to a 4x4 cossie. I wish i could explain it but i cant. its the thrill. And the capabilities of it, as long as youre wallet extends to it.

maxest

iTrader: (1)

Tabetha Why would you walk away from a car with no rust?? Also i would walk away from a car that has had new panels, unless it was cheap..

I've had numerous cosworths and the panels gaps have been spot on,

kosienutter

i have spent 1500 quid in the last 4 months the brake pads and disc replacments, two new tyres added most of that up with a little tiny thing here and there going wrong each months being no more than 100 quid to fix each time.

look after it and check it weekly Level wise (oil, water, tyres) and it will stay strong in my opinion.

oil tip use mobil oil its brilliant