as above my 2wd sapp on a 205 blocks headgasket is weeping down the side of the block it got a coopers O ring headgasket been done once 6 years ago,i think under the high boost (30psi) peak where i have gone up from stage 3 to light blues the head is lifting just enough to allow a weap if i decide to replace the gasket(which i am in two minds what to do might break her )do i go with standard headbolts or a stud kit???also if i use standard headbolts do i set them to the standard torque settings or go tighter???

 

i was told anything over 28psi and i would need a longstud conversion

 

upp

 

not heard that fella suppose its down to the tuner

 

Gaskets don't just blow due to pressure.
I use ARP stud kit(2wd) and final torque of 120lbft, with a group a at 28psi peak, without any problem.
You MUST allow it to settle when doing the head gasket though, most don't, allow at least 2 hours, for settling.
tabetha

 

i know cossie4i also using these arp kits i always thought u run terisk of the block cracking with these???so do this hold the head tighter then normal head bolts???u have to retorque them after 2 hours of running dont u?and every 2k???

 

There is some confusion over the ARP stuff, you cannot LONSTUD a 2wd block period the thread is simply not deep enough.
There is a dedicated ARP stud kit for 2wd blocks, which of course is just studs/nuts.
If using a group a, no retorque after running will be necessary at all, I never have, the gasket(group a) is FIBROUS so retains an element of springiness about it which is why I like it, it also is more likely to cope with any slight imperfections on the surfaces of the head or block better than steel will.
I personally know of a 540bhp 3 door on a group a that also does track days and it really is driven hard, and it has not leaked in over 40,000 miles.
tabetha

 

is this ARP stud and nutted? just to get it straight

 

cool chap but i am running a coopers O ring,but suppose that should not make any difference really as it is a fibrous gasket with fire rings

 

you can't torque std head bolts higher than std. std procedure is to get them up to torque and then turn a further 80 - 90 degrees. that further tightening puts the bolts in the stretch zone - any further tightening will just stretch them more - it won't provide any more clamping force

 

That would explain why I don't use STD head bolts then!!
3 door uses ARP stud and nut kit, yes.
tabetha

 

thing is i dont understand why my headgasket should start weeping it really pissed me off,ok i know it headgasket fails etc but this is not a cheap headgasket and should never really fail due to the fire rings,this is the second time its failed in the same maner ok last time it was done was 6 years ago but its only done around 5k

 

dont realy matter how many miles ,the car has been stood,and 6 years aint bad mate,i use the ARP stud and nut, and grpA gasket as Tabetha ,and i have never had a problem when put into practice correctly

 

Any engine being made of material that can rust does rust, ie on the head surface where the gasket sits.
Additional flexing of the gasket takes place due to the piss poor design of the head on the early ones ie 2wd heads made by cosworth, hence the redesign of the waterways, and more particularly the support around the water holes, changing from a long slit on the 2wd to a series of 1/2" holes on the 4wd.
tabetha