Souleyman

Who and how make this procedure after full rebuilding the Cosworth turbo engine and the turbo too?

Carlsworth

you defo need to prime the turbo first
not doing can drastically the life of it

when i had my cossie engine rebuilt, i gave it a thousand miles of very boring driving gradually giving it more over the 1000miles




carl

TurboShed

I was advised to keep it easy for 1000, and that's what I did with no problems. And use cheap oil to run it in.

tabetha

Do NOT under any circumstances run it in on FULLY SYNTHETIC OIL, it will offer such good protection it will glaze the bores.
Just don't let it labour, use more revs instead, I am using FULL throttle by about 600miles, for very short periods .
I keep to about 4000rpm for the first 500 miles then change oil/filter, with more MINERAL, ie cheapo oil, then gradually increase over the next 500 miles,
At about 1000 miles put in fully synthetic, but don't take it easy use it hard, until about 2000miles then you can relax.
tabetha

Souleyman

tabetha
Very interesting, mate, thanx a lot.
Why it needs more revs on a first hundreds miles?
Why it needs full throttle and not very low 4000rpm?
And what benefits gives the mineral oil (what viscosity?) on early miles?

Too much questions, but I heard polar methods of breacking-in rebuilded engines and want to find the right way for me.

Souleyman

How can I do it right?

tabetha

To prime the turbo, take off the drain back from below the turbo that goes to the sump, then fill the oil pipe inlet hole with engine oil until it flows out of the bottom of the drain on the turbo.
The replace drain tube, you only need to take off the flexy bit, so long as you can see it ok, I prime them before fitting, as it is a bit easier.
To run in, it is better to keep the revs up a bit but not in a high gear to make sure the bores don't glaze.
Above 500 ish, I am using full throttle for very short periods say 5/10 seconds at a time.
Up to it's first oil change at with more mineral oil, I use up to about 4000rpm, but do not let the engine labour as it tends to ROCK the pistons in the bore, until rings are fully bedded in.
The "benefit" of them mineral oil is it is crap!!, it allows contact to occur between the sliding surfaces, much more readily than does fully synthetic, (unless it's CASTROL RS!!).
A GOOD like SILKOLENE PRO S, will protect so well, it tends to promote bore glaze, which will make it always use oil as it stops particularly the rings bedding in which is the main thing that beds in during running in.
tabetha

Souleyman

What mineral and then syntetic oils to use for this will be better?
I have in my arsenal full line of genuine Ford oils, Casrol oils and Mobil1 oils. All of them I can take in Moscow without any problems. And what viscosity is better to choose for all this exchanges?

tabetha

I would use a 10/W50.
Use ford mineral oil for running in is fine.
Castrol RS is utter crap IMO, mobil better but not ace, AMSOIL better but failing that some SILKOLENE PRO S is a excellent oil, out of the two synthetics you mention mobil is better.
tabetha

Souleyman

tabetha
Thanx!

lamb chops

Very useful info Tabs thanks

How do you know so much?

melzieann

ran mine in for 500miles on mineral oil using up to 3,000rpm, at 500 miles drained oil, used silkolene pro s
then used rev range smooth all the up to 5,000rpm for further 200miles
then gave it some abuse

tabetha

I don't it's a guess!!.
No this is just what I do, everyone has thier own opinion, years ago when machine tolerances and oils/components were not as good, it used to be very slowly for ten zillion miles etc, but the same procedure today will cause a smoky engine, and is not needed.
Saying that the last hire car I had FOUCS 1.4 was so gutless due to everyobne babying it, I thought a good thrash would help, the difference in 300 miles was amazing, don't think they liked 2000 miles in two weeks though!!
tabetha