Does anyone run coilovers
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23-12-2003, 06:45 PM
#8
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You can run them Phil without any problem, you are just gonna have to watch what spring rates you go for. The fast road kits that people like LEDA and AVO supply come with fairly supple springs and they use the standard rubber bushed upper and lower mounts, so you aren't gonna break your spine or your car in half.
Just don't go to mental on the spring rates. My AVO fast road kit came with 300lb springs on the front and 200lb springs on the rear and they were fine. The ride was firmer than standard but in no way would I have described it as harsh.
Sean..
Just don't go to mental on the spring rates. My AVO fast road kit came with 300lb springs on the front and 200lb springs on the rear and they were fine. The ride was firmer than standard but in no way would I have described it as harsh.
Sean..
23-12-2003, 06:47 PM
#10
benn:i find it a lot better than standard (read 15 year old!!) suspension,had poly bushes all round too at same time,feels a lot nicer,smoother even at any speed,and a LOT better over speed bumps cos it doesnt bottom out like the std stuff did!only fuck about is when you jack it up u need to really get it all lined up before u put it back down,otherwise it creaks to fuck!
23-12-2003, 06:48 PM
#11
They need plates like a roll cage needs em to stop them ripping thru,applies to rear only though!
Just a bit of advice,but like Sean says spring rates play a part,just make sure the metal around it is pristine condition!
Just a bit of advice,but like Sean says spring rates play a part,just make sure the metal around it is pristine condition!
23-12-2003, 06:51 PM
#13
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I really dont know what to do 
I have konis on the front and Avo on the rear, but they are very tired and need replacing but not sure what to do
Go for Konis all round or coilovers (Proberbly AVO)
What you lot reckon?
Sorry for jumping on your thread Phil
I have konis on the front and Avo on the rear, but they are very tired and need replacing but not sure what to do
Go for Konis all round or coilovers (Proberbly AVO)
What you lot reckon?
Sorry for jumping on your thread Phil
23-12-2003, 06:55 PM
#15
benn,id recommend the avos matey,good for me!mines a road car and is a very nice ride,best lowered car ive had,not too fussed by speed bumps and mine is low like(when on the ramps cant get the ramp jacks under the car!)
23-12-2003, 06:55 PM
#16
They are set on the softest setting there is and it still makes a big fucking bang on even small poy holes hit any thing at speed and it sounds like the world is about to end it has poly bushes all round
23-12-2003, 07:17 PM
#26
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Hello
Leda's normal spring rates for 2wd are 275/300lb front,250/275lb rear,4wd 325lb front,250/275lb rear,but I have seen them much higher than that aswell,
Phil you have pm
Mark
Leda's normal spring rates for 2wd are 275/300lb front,250/275lb rear,4wd 325lb front,250/275lb rear,but I have seen them much higher than that aswell,
Phil you have pm
Mark
Just i read you had to due to them being much harder and the std metal wernt up to it 
23-12-2003, 10:36 PM
#30
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How would you weld plates to the rear, bearing in mind the top mount on the saff is purely a bolt hole?
My brother runs rose jointed Billies all round, with 300/450, and it doesn't require them.
My brother runs rose jointed Billies all round, with 300/450, and it doesn't require them.
23-12-2003, 10:48 PM
#31
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rich,
i think he means the square towers
i run coilovers on the rear and koni's on the front but i drive on complete shite roads
well good roads just bad surface
i think he means the square towers
i run coilovers on the rear and koni's on the front but i drive on complete shite roads
well good roads just bad surface
24-12-2003, 01:13 AM
#32
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I think it is a fair question to ask Rich, at the end of the day the weight at the back of the car is supported by the spring, not the shock. The original position of the spring is not over the damper as with a coil over but under the chassis and that is where the load was designed to be taken.
Most weld in cages in cossies put a huge amount of support and strengthening around the upper damper mount just for this reason.
But I think it has been proved that with a road biased setup on coil overs with unstrengthened top mounts you are not going to cause any damage.
Sean..
Most weld in cages in cossies put a huge amount of support and strengthening around the upper damper mount just for this reason.
But I think it has been proved that with a road biased setup on coil overs with unstrengthened top mounts you are not going to cause any damage.
Sean..
24-12-2003, 09:37 AM
#34
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Craig, Yes they will go straight on. As long as you don't go to mental on the spring rates and settle for a fast road type setup you should have no top mount issues.
The one mod that does often need to be carried out is a little "Massageing" of the rear inner wheelarch where the coil over will run as the spring quite often just catches it. It's not really a problem though.
Hope this helps
Sean..
The one mod that does often need to be carried out is a little "Massageing" of the rear inner wheelarch where the coil over will run as the spring quite often just catches it. It's not really a problem though.
Hope this helps
Sean..
24-12-2003, 10:30 AM
#35
Bob,
You lying twat
, I told you at the time EXACTLY what you had on (400/200) AND I told you that you would NEED to go softer, but you didn't want to fork out for any new springs, so if you remember, I GAVE you all the spare ones I had to test . Some people - Good job you're out on a rig or I would have to bitch slap you . People who drink loads of alchohol should learn to write things down so they can remember when the brain cells start to die .
As I said at the time, ideally you want 375lb / 175lb for your set up, but you didn't want to go for that thinking that hard was best.
Phil,
Does NOT need welding, but it DOES need a rear strut brace. I did a Dukes of Hazard style jump over a roundabout and the car launched 7ft in the air and when it landed it bent the rear beam upwards so the rear wheel was right up in the arch, but STILL did not damage the suspension tops.
You lying twat
, I told you at the time EXACTLY what you had on (400/200) AND I told you that you would NEED to go softer, but you didn't want to fork out for any new springs, so if you remember, I GAVE you all the spare ones I had to test . Some people - Good job you're out on a rig or I would have to bitch slap you . People who drink loads of alchohol should learn to write things down so they can remember when the brain cells start to die .As I said at the time, ideally you want 375lb / 175lb for your set up, but you didn't want to go for that thinking that hard was best.
Phil,
Does NOT need welding, but it DOES need a rear strut brace. I did a Dukes of Hazard style jump over a roundabout and the car launched 7ft in the air and when it landed it bent the rear beam upwards so the rear wheel was right up in the arch, but STILL did not damage the suspension tops.
24-12-2003, 01:26 PM
#37
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not only do you have to consider the spring rates ,you have to get the damping right ,no good having soft springs and hard damping , or viser versa, you have to get both right or one will work against the other ,also you have to get the slow speed setting right ,we have got 2 cars with the same billstien coilover suspension on same damping settings and the same springs rates but one car under steered more then the other ,sent both sets of fronts away to billstien and the slow speed setting was different , my car was ok no under steer so had the others matched to mine and the understeer has all but gone ,so if you do want to go to coil overs make sure you get plenty of advice and ask all the people you know to try and get it right or close on the first attempt ,to redamp billies £200 to adjust slow speed settings about the same ,so its a costly game to play
jp
jp
24-12-2003, 01:37 PM
#38
You lads make it so complicated, just drive your motor to M.A.Developments & leave it ,go back a couple of hours later & then drive away . Ride is fine , cornering great & off the line acceleration marvelous. No idea of spring rates or damper settings, thats why i pay for expert advice.
He fitted Leda coilovers & a rear strut -brace. Had the struts checked at Leda recently & still in spec after 4years.
Christmas Cheer
He fitted Leda coilovers & a rear strut -brace. Had the struts checked at Leda recently & still in spec after 4years.
Christmas Cheer
24-12-2003, 02:26 PM
#39
Mike
Well thats solved that problem softer springs it is.
sorry must have been well pissed (not like me as you well know)
As for the twat, thats MR twat to you,and in regard to the bitch slap just make sure you have a clean blouse and g string on so you will look your best when they cart you off to A and E
For sale rock hard springs
Well thats solved that problem softer springs it is.
sorry must have been well pissed (not like me as you well know)
As for the twat, thats MR twat to you,and in regard to the bitch slap just make sure you have a clean blouse and g string on so you will look your best when they cart you off to A and E
For sale rock hard springs
24-12-2003, 02:45 PM
#40
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Mike/others: so what spring settings do you recommend using for fast road/track? I'm getting a set of Billies but am unsure what spring rates to order.