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COSSIE STILL WONT RUN..AAAARRRRRRRRRRRR

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Old 28-02-2006 | 08:39 PM
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Default COSSIE STILL WONT RUN..AAAARRRRRRRRRRRR

hello ppl, well after weeks of trying to obtain a pukka wiring diagram for my 1989 saph cossie....still no luck I ended up buying one ov them stupid cd's of ebay...wahay..

I feel like I am banging my head against a brick wall,

first I come on here and I was pointed into the right direction for a diagram but for some reason my ecu wiring does not match them..I found some site where u can down load the drawing, but it was only for the three door...

I only need to know the connections for the ecu wiring..

Grunter that drawing I sent you is wrong cos pin 21 is not used on my ecu????? I don't no mate what I have hahaha

did they make a few cossies on a f plate wid left over looms or what..hahaha

SO PLEASE DOES ANYONE HAVE A DRAWING THEY CAN MAIL ME........I WILL GET MY GIRL FRIEND TO DO SEXUAL FAVOURS..LOL

MANY THANKS TO ALL WHO REPLY..
Old 01-03-2006 | 01:23 AM
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This is a diagram I modded myself for clarity. Apart from possible changes to wiring colours, the only difference between earlier and later 2wd looms was the inclusion in earlier looms of an additional relay for the management warning light in the dash (ECU pin 12)

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BASIC FAULT FINDING GUIDE FOR COSSIE ECUS originally posted by Simon @ SECS

NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor.
If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run)

1) Ensure ignition is OFF.
2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu.
3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine)
4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20.
5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30.
6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15.
7) THROTTLE CLOSED:
4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN:
4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17.
2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17.
9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted)
10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at
least 2V.
11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms.
12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at
least 1.5 - 2V.
12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms.
NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first)
16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V.
17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS.
Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark.
18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click.
19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs.
20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)
21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)

Unplug the ecu and turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump runs the relay has been wired to run permanently or the relay is jammed.
However, if the pump is running continuously, this WILL NOT stop the car from starting.

Some chips don’t drive the fuel pump relay output properly as this is used for other features like ALS etc.... (PECTEL/AHMED chips mainly). In these situations, the pump is rewired to run continuously.

If however, the pump is wired correctly and working properly, if it runs continuously when the ecu is plugged in only, then the ECU and/or chip may have failed.

The pump is ok to run continuously
Old 01-03-2006 | 08:04 AM
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Default thanks jon

right that is a very good post jon many thanks this will help me, i have that diagram u have posted, but my wire colours ar not the same as that one this is what is confusin me, but i guess the pin outs will be the same!!

many thanks i am on the car now and will let you know what it was..

cheers
Old 01-03-2006 | 03:05 PM
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Default Re: thanks jon

Originally Posted by vinnyd
but i guess the pin outs will be the same!!
indeed they will
Old 01-03-2006 | 05:21 PM
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Hi Jon and thanks for your post, I looked at the wiring today and that drawing is nothing like my ecu wiring????

I no it should be because every drawing I have is similar to ur one you posted!
the funny thing is that the power for my ecu is on pin 2 which is 12v+. I do not have a ground on pin 19 this is on pin 1 and pin 20???

which I understand that pin 20 should be +... confused well I am..hahah.
I have been on the phone most of the day to the major companies who modify cossies, an everyone ov them have told me they have never come across an ecu wired like mine.....
anymore suggestions...
I have even rung graham Goode racing up now they got all there drawings out which they have for a cossie and not one of them matched up with my ecu..its so strange.

kind regards vinny
Old 01-03-2006 | 05:41 PM
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Where you from buddy,isn't any of the tuners near you ?
Old 01-03-2006 | 05:55 PM
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Default wiring

stoke on trent its about an hour away, i dont really wanna give it to them tho cos i know they will charge me Ł400-Ł500 and i know its only one wire or sumin..


cheers vin

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Old 01-03-2006 | 06:18 PM
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TBH mate if that post SECS simon made dont help you
then you have a different problem
Simon is a Fooking genius with these things, ive seen him work
and know it!!
Old 01-03-2006 | 06:25 PM
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Default ecu

the problem i have is that i can not find a drawing which matches with my ecu,

it just doesnt make sense, i buy a cossie and it must be the only one with this wiring??????


vinny
Old 01-03-2006 | 06:30 PM
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It doesn't really matter what colour the wires are at the end of the day, that just makes things easier.....

Post up what the actual problem is and then peeps can help you!!

The pins are more or less the same on all the ecu's.
Old 01-03-2006 | 06:36 PM
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ECU CONNECTIONS (COSWORTH WEBER VERSION)

PIN ORIGINAL ECU
-----------------------

1 POWER GROUND

2 LAMBDA SENSOR INPUT

3 CRANK SENSOR GROUND

4 CRANK SENSOR INPUT

5 PHASE SENSOR GROUND

6 KNOCK SENSOR GROUND

7 PURGE VALVE

8 DIAGNOSTIC SOCKET

9 VREF MONITOR

10 POWER RELAY

11 VREF NEGATIVE

12 GENERAL OUTPUT

13 OCTANE ADJUST

14 OCTANE ADJUST

15 MAP SENSOR INPUT

16 BOOST VALVE

17 THROTTLE POSITION

18 INJECTOR 4

19 POWER GROUND

20 POSITIVE SUPPLY

21 -

22 KNOCK SENSOR INPUT

23 PHASE SENSOR INPUT

24 IGNITION TRIGGER GROUND

25 IGNITION TRIGGER OUTPUT

26 -

27 DIAGNOSTIC SOCKET

28 FUEL PUMP RELAY

29 COOLANT SENSOR

30 VREF POSITIVE

31 CHARGE AIR SENSOR

32 INJECTOR 2

33 INJECTOR 3

34 IDLE SPEED VALVE

35 INJECTOR 1
Old 01-03-2006 | 07:09 PM
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Right here I go, basically I took my old dash out and put a new one in. then the car would not start.

I don't get any fuel up or no spark, I have checked the phase sensor, the ig amp module, I have a pulse to my crank sensor.

so I am assuming that I have dropped a live to my ecu, because for all the above to work then the ecu must be powered up, via the two yellow relays, one is for the ecu/injectors and the other is for the fuel pump. now for the fuel pump and the ecu to work there must be a voltage to the injectors which then fires the 12v to the ecu which then the ecu will send the signals to the other relays then it should start, but for me tho check all this I need to know my pin outs on my ecu.

I KNOW ALL THE ECU'S ON THE COSWORTH ARE THE SAME PIN OUT MINUS THE 4X4 WHICH HAS EXTRA CONNECTIONS.

NOW MY PROBLEM IS ALL THEM CONNECTIONS YOU HAVE TOLD ME I TOTALLY AGREE THERE IS NO DOUBT THAT THEY ARE RIGHT. BUT ON MY ECU I DON'T HAVE WIRES IN THE PLACES WHICH ARE STATED IN ALL THE DRAWINGS.

I don't have a wire in pin19 and pin 2 on mine is reading positive?I don't have a wire in pin 28. there are more wires which are in other pins to, now do u see why I am so confused..
I know basically how everything works, but its so strange how so many wires can be in different places compared to any of the ford drawings,

I hope all that made sense??? well it did in my head..lol

once again thanks to all who help me i really do need it..

cheers vinny
Old 01-03-2006 | 07:33 PM
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right i have just looked to see where i have wires this is my pin lay out i dont know what they are just wether they has positive or negative feeds.

pin1 wire

pin2 wire

pin3 wire

pin4 wire

pin5 wire

pin6 wire

pin7 wire

pin8 wire

pin9 wire

pin10 wire

pin11 wire

pin12 not used

pin13 not used

pin14 not used

pin15 wire

pin16 wire

pin17 wire

pin18 wire

pin19 not used

pin20 wire

pin21 not used

pin22 wire

pin23 wire

pin24 wire

pin25 wire

pin26 not used

pin27 wire

pin28 not used

pin29 not used

pin30 not used

pin31 not used

pin32 not used

pin33 wire

pin34 wire

pin35 wire
Old 01-03-2006 | 08:19 PM
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First things first

Turn the ignition ON and Check there is Power Actually Getting to the ECU



you should see 11.5 volt (or above)
if you put meter on pins
20 - POSITIVE
1 - NEGATIVE

tell us what you get mate.
Old 01-03-2006 | 09:03 PM
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ok i will see, but i am sure i done this today, and never got a reading, thats why i am more going towards the two yellow relays???


cheers vinny..
Old 01-03-2006 | 10:02 PM
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looking at your above pin-out, either :

it isn't a L6
it is a L6 but someone's seriously fucked about with it
it never ran
someone nicked half your loom
you are misreading the numbers on the plastic loom plug (undo the screw and take off the cover)

As said above, all of the following are required:
pin 19 - earth
pin 28 - relay feed to ECU
pin 29 - coolant temp sensor
pin 30 - map sensor and TPS
pin 31 - air temp sensor
pin 32 - injector no.2
Old 01-03-2006 | 10:17 PM
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right let me tell you about myself, i have a onc/hnc in electrical engineering i have been into electronics and plc programin since i was 16....

i have taken off the cover and that is how i read the numbers...
the car has been running, plus i am reading the right numbers on my ecu..

why do you think i am so pist off, i can not understand how the thing ran...i have many mates with cossies an everyone ov the ecu's are wired the same as the drawings...

jon pm me i will take photos for you its mad....the car has been running as i went to donnington in it..

this is one for the archives...cos everyone who i have spoke to has not got a clue..

jon pm me and i will take photos of it and you can see, cos i think u dont belive me

cheers vinny
Old 01-03-2006 | 10:37 PM
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the part number on the ecu is w45.60/l20-67

does that seem like a level 6 ???

i dont know the numbers..
Old 01-03-2006 | 10:40 PM
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vinnyd my sapph is the same year as urs ur more than welcome to come over and take a look see if its the same as urs and try ur ecu on it as well id come over with it but its erm slightly in bits atm im only just off the m1 at j26 its entirely up to u the offer is there
Old 01-03-2006 | 10:41 PM
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also by any chance is urs chipped????
Old 02-03-2006 | 12:38 AM
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Try your ECU in one of your mates' cars - if their car still works, change your loom for one of theirs, or mod yours to be the same as the diagrams you've got. Fucking bizarre.
Old 02-03-2006 | 12:00 PM
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Default ecu

i have tryed another ecu into my car and still no joy???

grunter i might come down and do that cheeers for the offer,

anyone got a spare loom hahah foir sale..



cheers
Old 02-03-2006 | 02:38 PM
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Have you checked all your fuses ?

May sound obvious but I recently changed my dash and somehow blew a fuse.

Steve
Old 02-03-2006 | 04:36 PM
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i take it theres no sencer for when u crash,thts kills everything?
Old 02-03-2006 | 04:53 PM
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Default ecu

the fuses and the fuel cut off switch was the first things i have looked at, i have been looking into, if you see a coment which has been made about, is it a level 6 ecu out of a lancia delta?? well i have been looking in to this as the loom is the same as the cossie so if you have a delta ecu and loom this will fit in in to the cossie...strange why someone would do this tho.

As looms and ecu's are easy to obtain!!!

I am trying to get a diagarm ov a lancia delta now...
Old 02-03-2006 | 06:26 PM
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You wrote "w45.60/l20-67 " as your ECU part number. A web site I've found says that the L6 is w45.06/l20-67. Either yours or the website may be a typo, so I'd take it that your ECU is indeed a L6.

Try your ECU on your mates car. Even if your chip doesn't match their spec, if their car fires up on your ECU, it's your loom at fault.
Old 02-03-2006 | 07:53 PM
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i do ... ithink tho its got an lancia evo loom in it know i have just got my mate to put a post on a lancia site..

the thing is about trying my ecu into my mate i might blow the hell out ov it.. as i dont know what ecu it realy is?? i mean if its one out of a evo it could well be the same ecu but i would be more then sure there will be some connection not the same.

god knows..
Old 02-03-2006 | 07:56 PM
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the thing that puzzles me is the car has been working before so the loom and ecu have been compatable.

have you an alarm / immobiliser fitted ?

it may be something to do with the alarm / immobiliser and nothing at all to do with the ecu / loom as i doubt you would have even touched the ecu when changing the dash. i'd remove the whole dash and check every connection, fuse etc

steve
Old 02-03-2006 | 07:59 PM
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Hi again, I have just come of that lancia site, some of the lads have gave me the diagrams of the evo 1 and 2, they are very much the same as the cossie one..but its the same even to the evo drawing i have pin 19 missing and its present on that drawing. And if it was a evo loom i would be missing an injector....AAAAARRRR

Its so strange this, but i tell u what i will get to the bottom ov it, i wounder if there will be some sort of markings on it, do you know like a part number on the loom there usally is, like a sticker wraped around it???

anyway cheers jon...

dont give up on me son..lol
vinny
Old 02-03-2006 | 09:28 PM
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sorry i did not see your reply, i did have a clifford intel start, but it was tuck out by the guy who fitted it, so i know the wiring is back to standard..

life is a bitch..lol
Old 02-03-2006 | 10:09 PM
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i'd take the dash out mate, and if i were you check every connector, fuse etc under the dash and around the ignition area. i personally think that your looking at the wrong thing ( ecu & loom) if it was working prior to swaping the dash and you havent done anything to the loom or ecu whilst doing the change.

steve
Old 03-03-2006 | 12:19 PM
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Default re ecu

steve, i fully understand what you are saying, but there is no spark or fuel nor a voltage on the injectors, so because i have no proppa drawing so i dont know if i have a feed to my ecu, i know that the two yellow relays feed the ecu/injectors/and fuel pump.. i dont think it my ecu but i do really think the problem is what drives the ecu and maybe before that..



vinny
Old 03-03-2006 | 04:57 PM
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Default no one will belive this!!!

i called fords up today the tehc line Ł1 min job it killed me..

anyway they told me to make sure the loom is a ford part so i did, i rung service up and asked if my loom part number was a ford part. and guess what it is...strange hey...

anyway i rung tehc back up and they did not have a drawing between them to match my ecu??? work that one out... i have even gone down to my car again to make sure i have read the pinouts right!!!

anyway i not botherd about the fault nowlol i just wan to get to the bttom of this...

cheers vinny
Old 03-03-2006 | 05:13 PM
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Vinny,

Is there no spark or fuel at the injectors because of an electrical problem / faulty connection at the ignition barrel or one of the wires coming off it.

I personally would get hold of a Haynes manual for a 89 sapphire ***** and follow the wiring diagram from there. although the ecu's are obviously different i bet the ignition circuits are the same.

Steve
Old 03-03-2006 | 05:13 PM
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there are also some fuseable links i think in the engine bay have you checked these
Old 03-03-2006 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by steventoon
Vinny,

Is there no spark or fuel at the injectors because of an electrical problem / faulty connection at the ignition barrel or one of the wires coming off it.

I personally would get hold of a Haynes manual for a 89 sapphire cossie and follow the wiring diagram from there. although the ecu's are obviously different i bet the ignition circuits are the same.

Steve

haynes dont do a manual for a cossie
Old 03-03-2006 | 06:54 PM
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lol, sorry mate, i meant an 89 sapphire !
got a bit carried away

steve
Old 04-03-2006 | 12:43 AM
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Default ecu

i can not get a haynes for the cossie pllus i have checked all the wiring in the car...homestly mate i have been through evrything...no joy..
Old 06-03-2006 | 03:17 PM
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Default Re: COSSIE STILL WONT RUN..AAAARRRRRRRRRRRR

Originally Posted by vinnyd
I WILL GET MY GIRL FRIEND TO DO SEXUAL FAVOURS..
I hope she's fit Vinny - I've just got back from my local dealer.......the end to your problems is close
Old 06-03-2006 | 08:21 PM
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Default now then

LMAO... jon so come on fella spill the bean, i went down myself and all they could tell me that its a cosworth loom and it was fitted in to years 87 through to 92...

so come on jon what did they tell ya..

by the way if you wanna see my bird www.jenniferbabe.co.uk
nar its not really she is just a mate..lol


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