I'm really stuck. How do I tighten this bolt?! video included, please please help me
#1
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I'm really stuck. How do I tighten this bolt?! video included, please please help me
car, 2006 mk2 ford focus sport 1.8 TDCI.
Been working on this for 2 days taking 12 hours so far.
The top bolt on turbo oil feed pipe is loose and oil is coming out of it, I can loosen it just about but to tighten it past finger tight is an absolute nightmare ! there is the exhaust manifold to the left in the way and a box thing (somebody said it looks like torque something, said does not think it can be removed ?? )
if that box thing can be removed I will have 100 % access to tighten this bolt.
What about flare spanners, are the heads on these spanners thinner than regular spanners as I need something about quarter a centimetre width either side. would a flare spanner be adequate ?
Been working on this for 2 days taking 12 hours so far.
The top bolt on turbo oil feed pipe is loose and oil is coming out of it, I can loosen it just about but to tighten it past finger tight is an absolute nightmare ! there is the exhaust manifold to the left in the way and a box thing (somebody said it looks like torque something, said does not think it can be removed ?? )
if that box thing can be removed I will have 100 % access to tighten this bolt.
What about flare spanners, are the heads on these spanners thinner than regular spanners as I need something about quarter a centimetre width either side. would a flare spanner be adequate ?
Last edited by FastLife91; 29-01-2017 at 06:04 PM.
#3
ffoc.co.uk
The video needs to have youtube or http tags wrapped around the link for it to work. Actually I can't see the option to do that, so I just put your link in my post.
As for the problem I can't help you there, but someone should be along soon.
As for the problem I can't help you there, but someone should be along soon.
Last edited by H3lsing; 29-01-2017 at 06:11 PM.
#4
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The video needs to have youtube or http tags wrapped around the link for it to work. Actually I can't see the option to do that, so I just put your link in my post.
https://youtu.be/6bA6VsKCH4c
As for the problem I can't help you there, but someone should be along soon.
https://youtu.be/6bA6VsKCH4c
As for the problem I can't help you there, but someone should be along soon.
please, can you try this link, I am aware there was a problem with the previous link, please try it now.
#6
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I would strip everything above it our to give you room
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FastLife91 (04-02-2017)
#10
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thanks, I have taken a few things apart and will see better tomorrow what the situation on it currently is.
several people have mentioned that ( also known as a flare spanner) I want to know how thin the head is on the flare spanner, like the width on either side of the head, because I only have about half a centimetre gap on the left and quarter centimetre gap to the right.
Some foreigner who I briefly spoke with said it looked like a torque something but wasn't quite sure ?
the waste gate is on the opposite side of the engine I believe, or am I mistaken ? (I'm not too sure )
I think a crows foot spanner is another name for a flare spanner, how big is the head on these either side because I only have half a centimetre or so gap on the left and approx. quarter a centimetre gap on the right.
the hexagon shaped looking bolt, toward the back of the engine. thanks
Note to everyone above, here is the small bit of pipe , I am able to screw it out but it is very difficult to get in screwed back in tight, it was cut because it was leaking so we made a pipe from reinforced hose and put a jubilee clip from the reinforced hose to the remaining bit of the original metal pipe. Here is a picture of what it looks like and any tips how to be able to put it on tight to stop it from leaking oil is much appreciated. thanks
#12
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thanks for replying.
I doubt a deep socket would work, the width of the socket may be too big to fit in , the socket is shorter than the pipe, I really don't think doing this with a deep socket would work but thanks again anyway.
I would like to know if you have any other ideas around this, would a flare spanner be an option ?
thanks in advance
Last edited by FastLife91; 30-01-2017 at 01:28 PM.
#13
ffoc.co.uk
A deep socket would be my way around it. With some modification it might look like this pic:
Or this:
Or this:
Last edited by H3lsing; 30-01-2017 at 01:40 PM.
#14
10K+ Poster!!
thanks for replying.
I doubt a deep socket would work, the width of the socket may be too big to fit in , the socket is shorter than the pipe, I really don't think doing this with a deep socket would work but thanks again anyway.
I would like to know if you have any other ideas around this, would a flare spanner be an option ?
thanks in advance
I doubt a deep socket would work, the width of the socket may be too big to fit in , the socket is shorter than the pipe, I really don't think doing this with a deep socket would work but thanks again anyway.
I would like to know if you have any other ideas around this, would a flare spanner be an option ?
thanks in advance
#15
cossie fan (unluckerly)
Had too take the turbo off my golf the other day. I fucking hate working on cars being a truck man and I too had issue getting on the oil feed pipe to the turbo. Only way I could get on it any sense was with a crows foot on an extension with a wobble end
#16
PassionFord Post Whore!!
ring spanner, modified to fit? notch out of it and grind the outside if too thick..arse working on cars when you are stuck like this..
#17
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
thanks for replying.
I doubt a deep socket would work, the width of the socket may be too big to fit in , the socket is shorter than the pipe, I really don't think doing this with a deep socket would work but thanks again anyway.
I would like to know if you have any other ideas around this, would a flare spanner be an option ?
thanks in advance
I doubt a deep socket would work, the width of the socket may be too big to fit in , the socket is shorter than the pipe, I really don't think doing this with a deep socket would work but thanks again anyway.
I would like to know if you have any other ideas around this, would a flare spanner be an option ?
thanks in advance
#18
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Would you get a "crows foot" in there. a bit like this: http://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/Par...w&gclsrc=aw.ds
No, the width of the crows foot is too wide to fit it in the tight gap. However I kept hitting it sideways with a screwdriver (could only tap it as have very little room )and it feels tight so when my booster pack is ready to charge the battery (battery flat) I shall see if it has stopped leaking oil from there, however I got it tight 2 days ago but did not stop the oil leak but it does feel slightly tighter but there would be
more turns to get it fully tight if I had the room ., will let you know in a bit when I have engine running.
I hate working on car's too when it get's like this, I am no mechanic, had no training but due to the 5 years of my motoring, spending Ł9,000 on repairs over 4 cars and being lied to and having poorly done work on my car from ''mechanics'' I have decided to take the approach off repairs myself and tackle a few jobs and despite finding some of the jobs awkward such as this one, they are not really difficult at all and I estimate I have saved over Ł500 in recent months doing jobs on the car myself.
However I do not see how fitting your turbo oil feed pipe would have been difficult if you had major parts apart anyway like the turbo, you'd have more access, whereas everything is still basically on my car such as the turbo, manifold, EGR, etc.. which is causing the difficulty in getting this bolt tight.
However I kept hitting the bolt sideways (could only tap it as have very little room) with a screwdriver and it feels tight so when my booster pack is ready to charge the battery (battery flat) I shall see if it has stopped leaking oil from there, however I got it tight 2 days ago but did not stop the oil leak but it does feel slightly tighter but there would be
more turns to get it fully tight if I had the room ., will let you know in a bit when I have engine running.
I cannot of that because the head of the spanner/socket is too wide to fit in the gap.
However I kept hitting the bolt sideways (could only tap it as have very little room) with a screwdriver and it feels tight so when my booster pack is ready to charge the battery (battery flat) I shall see if it has stopped leaking oil from there, however I got it tight 2 days ago but did not stop the oil leak but it does feel slightly tighter but there would be
more turns to get it fully tight if I had the room ., will let you know in a bit when I have engine running.
Note to the above : sorry for my slow reply, my computer informed me of new messages and I knew the thread has new replies but when clicking it only showed me old replies from days ago, seems to be a bit faulty as taking a while to show your messages. thanks for your responses.
#19
PassionFord Post Troll
Yep, make a tool to fit the job
#20
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thanks for replying.
I was walking along a street before and as luck would have it an old man in a bungalow was working in his garage, I decided to stop and ask him if he had any ideas, he actually had a metal cutting machine and a thin spanner and he cut the bit around the head making the sides thinner, the spanner he gave me was a little smaller (he gave me 17mm spanner )than the size to fit the bolt which I think is a 19mm, once home I tried it with the with the 17 mm that he gave me, the one he cut the sides to make thinner but I found it very difficult getting it in the small space and unable to get any turn on the bolt or even a grip
I was walking along a street before and as luck would have it an old man in a bungalow was working in his garage, I decided to stop and ask him if he had any ideas, he actually had a metal cutting machine and a thin spanner and he cut the bit around the head making the sides thinner, the spanner he gave me was a little smaller (he gave me 17mm spanner )than the size to fit the bolt which I think is a 19mm, once home I tried it with the with the 17 mm that he gave me, the one he cut the sides to make thinner but I found it very difficult getting it in the small space and unable to get any turn on the bolt or even a grip
Last edited by FastLife91; 31-01-2017 at 07:56 PM.
#24
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Would you get a "crows foot" in there. a bit like this: http://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/Par...w&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thank you for your response.
No, the width of the crows foot is too wide to fit it in the tight gap. However I kept hitting it sideways with a screwdriver (could only tap it as have very little room )and it feels tight so when my booster pack is ready to charge the battery (battery flat) I shall see if it has stopped leaking oil from there, however I got it tight 2 days ago but did not stop the oil leak but it does feel slightly tighter but there would be
more turns to get it fully tight if I had the room ., will let you know in a bit when I have engine running.
Thanks for your reply.
I hate working on car's too when it get's like this, I am no mechanic, had no training but due to the 5 years of my motoring, spending Ł9,000 on repairs over 4 cars and being lied to and having poorly done work on my car from ''mechanics'' I have decided to take the approach off repairs myself and tackle a few jobs and despite finding some of the jobs awkward such as this one, they are not really difficult at all and I estimate I have saved over Ł500 in recent months doing jobs on the car myself.
However I do not see how fitting your turbo oil feed pipe would have been difficult if you had major parts apart anyway like the turbo, you'd have more access, whereas everything is still basically on my car such as the turbo, manifold, EGR, etc.. which is causing the difficulty in getting this bolt tight.
However I kept hitting the bolt sideways (could only tap it as have very little room) with a screwdriver and it feels tight so when my booster pack is ready to charge the battery (battery flat) I shall see if it has stopped leaking oil from there, however I got it tight 2 days ago but did not stop the oil leak but it does feel slightly tighter but there would be
more turns to get it fully tight if I had the room ., will let you know in a bit when I have engine running.
Thanks for the reply.
I cannot of that because the head of the spanner/socket is too wide to fit in the gap.
However I kept hitting the bolt sideways (could only tap it as have very little room) with a screwdriver and it feels tight so when my booster pack is ready to charge the battery (battery flat) I shall see if it has stopped leaking oil from there, however I got it tight 2 days ago but did not stop the oil leak but it does feel slightly tighter but there would be
more turns to get it fully tight if I had the room ., will let you know in a bit when I have engine running.
Note to the above : sorry for my slow reply, my computer informed me of new messages and I knew the thread has new replies but when clicking it only showed me old replies from days ago, seems to be a bit faulty as taking a while to show your messages. thanks for your responses.
No, the width of the crows foot is too wide to fit it in the tight gap. However I kept hitting it sideways with a screwdriver (could only tap it as have very little room )and it feels tight so when my booster pack is ready to charge the battery (battery flat) I shall see if it has stopped leaking oil from there, however I got it tight 2 days ago but did not stop the oil leak but it does feel slightly tighter but there would be
more turns to get it fully tight if I had the room ., will let you know in a bit when I have engine running.
Thanks for your reply.
I hate working on car's too when it get's like this, I am no mechanic, had no training but due to the 5 years of my motoring, spending Ł9,000 on repairs over 4 cars and being lied to and having poorly done work on my car from ''mechanics'' I have decided to take the approach off repairs myself and tackle a few jobs and despite finding some of the jobs awkward such as this one, they are not really difficult at all and I estimate I have saved over Ł500 in recent months doing jobs on the car myself.
However I do not see how fitting your turbo oil feed pipe would have been difficult if you had major parts apart anyway like the turbo, you'd have more access, whereas everything is still basically on my car such as the turbo, manifold, EGR, etc.. which is causing the difficulty in getting this bolt tight.
However I kept hitting the bolt sideways (could only tap it as have very little room) with a screwdriver and it feels tight so when my booster pack is ready to charge the battery (battery flat) I shall see if it has stopped leaking oil from there, however I got it tight 2 days ago but did not stop the oil leak but it does feel slightly tighter but there would be
more turns to get it fully tight if I had the room ., will let you know in a bit when I have engine running.
Thanks for the reply.
I cannot of that because the head of the spanner/socket is too wide to fit in the gap.
However I kept hitting the bolt sideways (could only tap it as have very little room) with a screwdriver and it feels tight so when my booster pack is ready to charge the battery (battery flat) I shall see if it has stopped leaking oil from there, however I got it tight 2 days ago but did not stop the oil leak but it does feel slightly tighter but there would be
more turns to get it fully tight if I had the room ., will let you know in a bit when I have engine running.
Note to the above : sorry for my slow reply, my computer informed me of new messages and I knew the thread has new replies but when clicking it only showed me old replies from days ago, seems to be a bit faulty as taking a while to show your messages. thanks for your responses.
First of all I want to apologise for creating another thread regarding the same topic, however this thread should and I certainly hope it to be the last regarding this stupid turbo oil feed bolt.
Well here is the latest update.
My friend came back this morning with this bolt after altering it, for those who didn't follow the story here is what the bolt on the car looked like
and he cut grooves in it so that I now have enough room to get ti tight and it looks a little like this now
The bolt is now absolutely solid on the car,unfortunately I have been unable to start the car to check it because the battery is flat and is now indoors charging.
My question is will this bolt be okay now that is has been altered ?
I am relieved to declare that this should be the last thread on this topic ( I hope) and I wish to thank everyone again who has helped and guided me along the way.
thanks all
Last edited by FastLife91; 03-02-2017 at 07:23 PM.
#26
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thanks for your reply.
I am going to take your advice and will get a new turbo oil feed pipe but am going to wait until next week as I need to use the car but this altered bolt on the turbo pipe should do until then.
SO I am going to get a new turbo pipe, does the whole turbo and egr e.t.c. have to be removed or is it a quick job ?
the car is a 2006 mk2 ford focus sport 1.8 TDCI
Can you also please post a photo of the pipe for my car , there are 2 types apparently but mine is a long thin metal type, I cannot picture what it looks like as it has been botched up and I never saw the original before it was cut or anything.
thanks
#27
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
find out from ford with the chassis number and engine number. with your reg number they will tell you. did your fandangow star shape bolt work. even i wouldnt of come up with that one fingers crossed for you
#28
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
i hope you reply soon before i fall a sleep. im not been sarcastick but the suspense is killing. this is worse than when my wife went into labour years ago
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slammedorion (04-02-2017)
#29
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Well my friend who altered the bolt was with me yesterday but when we went to start the car the battery was flat so I brought it in on charge overnight.
Started it today and there are no leaks from the bolt but the engine was only running at idle, because the reinforced pipe which is attached to the reinforced hose to the bit of remaining metal original pipe started leaking from under jubilee clip, so I need to get another jubilee clip which should stop the leak. It has never leaked before cutting the bolt though and I have ever only used 1 clip on it, maybe because it is tight all the way now that could be why because of the pressure ?
So although I have only had car at idle there are no leaks from the bolt, thank you for asking and I appreciate your help throughout and your patience.
I will give you an update tomorrow, meanwhile can you answer my question regarding which turbo pipe is the correct one for my 2006 mk2 ford focus sport 1.8 tdci. I am planning on buying a brand new one in a week or so and I want to ask if it is relatively easy to replace ?
I think the bottom bit attaches right near oil filter and I know where the top bit goes
So although I have only had car at idle there are no leaks from the bolt, thank you for asking and I appreciate your help throughout and your patience.
please reply when possible
thanks
#30
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Try a zip tie round it Or ptfe tape
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slammedorion (05-02-2017)
#32
PassionFord Post Whore!!
If your struggling to see under the bonnet, can I suggest some petrol and a match That would sort the leak out
#33
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iTrader: (10)
Fitting the pipe would be easy for a mechanic and it would entail you dropping it at a garage,asking them to fix it then they will call once it's done.
That has to be easier and quicker than going about it the way you are and a lot lot quicker,you have 5 threads about the same thing and it's still leaking so you obviously can't get it fixed so take it somewhere that can and be done with it.
That has to be easier and quicker than going about it the way you are and a lot lot quicker,you have 5 threads about the same thing and it's still leaking so you obviously can't get it fixed so take it somewhere that can and be done with it.
Last edited by 155lee; 05-02-2017 at 08:14 AM.
#34
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Fitting the pipe would be easy for a mechanic and it would entail you dropping it at a garage,asking them to fix it then they will call once it's done.
That has to be easier and quicker than going about it the way you are and a lot lot quicker,you have 5 threads about the same thing and it's still leaking so you obviously can't get it fixed so take it somewhere that can and be done with it.
That has to be easier and quicker than going about it the way you are and a lot lot quicker,you have 5 threads about the same thing and it's still leaking so you obviously can't get it fixed so take it somewhere that can and be done with it.
I just hope he has learnt something from this!!!
#36
Started it today and there are no leaks from the bolt but the engine was only running at idle, because the reinforced pipe which is attached to the reinforced hose to the bit of remaining metal original pipe started leaking from under jubilee clip, so I need to get another jubilee clip which should stop the leak. It has never leaked before cutting the bolt though and I have ever only used 1 clip on it, maybe because it is tight all the way now that could be why because of the pressure ?
Put a proper fucking pipe on it and stop being stupid/dangerous. In no shape or form ever is a jubilee clip the correct clip, or a piece of shit rubber hose the correct nose...nor an un-barbed metal pipe for what you are trying to do.
You're going to end up with a burnt out car.
In fact...keep going, it might end all these fucking threads !!
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#37
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No shit Sherlock !!!
Put a proper fucking pipe on it and stop being stupid/dangerous. In no shape or form ever is a jubilee clip the correct clip, or a piece of shit rubber hose the correct nose...nor an un-barbed metal pipe for what you are trying to do.
You're going to end up with a burnt out car.
In fact...keep going, it might end all these fucking threads !!
Put a proper fucking pipe on it and stop being stupid/dangerous. In no shape or form ever is a jubilee clip the correct clip, or a piece of shit rubber hose the correct nose...nor an un-barbed metal pipe for what you are trying to do.
You're going to end up with a burnt out car.
In fact...keep going, it might end all these fucking threads !!
put 2 jubilee clips on the reinforced hose, tightened the bolt back up and no leaks !!
was able to use the car properly today after about 10 days !!
thanks again
#38
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Fitting the pipe would be easy for a mechanic and it would entail you dropping it at a garage,asking them to fix it then they will call once it's done.
That has to be easier and quicker than going about it the way you are and a lot lot quicker,you have 5 threads about the same thing and it's still leaking so you obviously can't get it fixed so take it somewhere that can and be done with it.
That has to be easier and quicker than going about it the way you are and a lot lot quicker,you have 5 threads about the same thing and it's still leaking so you obviously can't get it fixed so take it somewhere that can and be done with it.
does much need to be removed to fit a new pipe, how long should it take ot fit a new turbo pipe ?
thanks again
#39
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FastLife91 (06-02-2017)
#40
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