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600+ BHP MK1 US spec Focus

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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 09:27 AM
  #41  
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That seems very keen on the power for the boost as on the yb engine were seeing 540bhp at 32psi and the yb is a much better Engine
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Old Nov 13, 2011 | 09:49 AM
  #42  
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is possible to go under 11s with front wheel drive ?
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 07:44 PM
  #43  
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Awsome car!!
I had 545 bhp (flywheel) on a gt3582 at only 1.4 bar, but once i took it up to 1.7 bar i got valve float,
So head is currently away having a double valve spring conversion that uses parts from other manufacturers,
What do you guys in states use for valve springs when runin this sort of power?
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 10:53 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by takeshiRejs
is possible to go under 11s with front wheel drive ?
Depends on the car, Specky's Vauxhall Tigra has gone under 10 iirc.
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 09:29 AM
  #45  
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It's possible to go under 9's with FWD, just depends how extreme you want to make it.
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 05:55 AM
  #46  
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Some pics of what has been going on

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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 08:12 AM
  #47  
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GREAT DECISION! love it
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 08:14 AM
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Do you suffer from high in take temps? Or use water injection? I'm cooler is prob 3 times the size of your one, and we don't get half the heat your guys do!
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 08:46 AM
  #49  
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If its designed for mile street and drag then a small cooler will suffice,

I too have a MASSIVE cooler,
But mine is street/track orientated, so after a blast on track for 20-30 mins at a time, the bigger coolers are needed,
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Awsome project jared, the only concern i would have is your using a "live axle?" are you not bothered about the handleing ??
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 06:50 PM
  #50  
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Nice work Jared. The rear shox are very narrow (close together) Is this due to wheel tyre clearance issues? I'd have been tempted to mod the chassis rails and widen the distance, it looks a little unstable.
Rich I think youve answered youre own question. jared seems to be a straight line man.
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 08:36 PM
  #51  
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This cooler is plenty big and I can promise you it is far more effective than the one that you have even though it is smaller. Notice how the air comes in at the top of one side and exits the bottom of the other. Also notice the ducting which seals it to the bumper. Both of these things ensure that the 100% of the cooler is being used. unlike your "big" cooler which has both the inlet and outlet at the bottom so there is no cross flow, Most of the air is going through the bottom 2/3 of the cooler. Also there is nothing keep the air from traveling around it rather than through it.



As for the "live axle" I guess the mustang does not get much press over there? Do you know that the new mustang 5.0 has a live axle? It not only puts down better stats than the new camaro with IRS but also an M3, it beats the pants off both around a road course.

The rear end is set up for drag but it will have no problem in the twisties either, that is why I went with the set up I did. I am in the process of sourcing the anti roll bars now. If I have trouble with the shock location I can always move them.

Last edited by Jared; Jan 20, 2012 at 08:41 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 06:55 AM
  #52  
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Awsome jared, wasnt a dig or diss what i was saying,
You accomplished somthing awsome!!
My cooler has diffuser plates inside so all the core gets used, its made by blitz, designed as an upgrade cooler for fq400 evo,

What valvetrain set up have you got?
I would like to break the 600bhp barrier which i think would be possible this time when my head returns from having a double valve spring conversion,
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 08:12 AM
  #53  
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Pretty epic build. Very nice.
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 10:42 AM
  #54  
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I run eibach valve springs and standard size valves. They seem to work fine I have run 28psi with my 3076r.

How many rpms are you turning? I have only turned 7500 so far. once she is running again I plan on changing cams and going up to 8k.
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 11:12 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Jared
I run eibach valve springs and standard size valves. They seem to work fine I have run 28psi with my 3076r.

How many rpms are you turning? I have only turned 7500 so far. once she is running again I plan on changing cams and going up to 8k.
Ive only gone to 7200 on std "rs" oil pump,
I too am using std size valves and cams from a 1.8 zetec, i was using peugeot valve springs as there isnt much option over here in uk, but i had valve float issues at 1.7 bar on the 3582,
The custom valve spring job im having done uses double springs from a rover "k" series engine, while havin the spring conversion ive also chosen some 275 degree cams, inlet has 10mm lift and exhaust has 10.5mm lift,

Ive also purchased a ford racing oil pump and plan to up the revs to 8200 maybe 8500, i know i can break 600 bhp just with the higher rpm, but whilst i have changed the spec i also sold my gt3582 and picked up a gtx 3582...
So its going to be interesting

I cant wait to see your project come along!
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 02:12 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Rollinz
Ive only gone to 7200 on std "rs" oil pump,
I too am using std size valves and cams from a 1.8 zetec, i was using peugeot valve springs as there isnt much option over here in uk, but i had valve float issues at 1.7 bar on the 3582,
The custom valve spring job im having done uses double springs from a rover "k" series engine, while havin the spring conversion ive also chosen some 275 degree cams, inlet has 10mm lift and exhaust has 10.5mm lift,

Ive also purchased a ford racing oil pump and plan to up the revs to 8200 maybe 8500, i know i can break 600 bhp just with the higher rpm, but whilst i have changed the spec i also sold my gt3582 and picked up a gtx 3582...
So its going to be interesting

I cant wait to see your project come along!
It truly is an awesome project and makes me want rwd more than ever, hope you have some drawings of the front that I can have a look at?
Rollinz I've just ordered some piper valve springs for my head, safe for 11.7mm lift at 9000rpm, that should see me safe, I hope!
Keep up the good work and the photo updates.
Jon
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 02:45 PM
  #57  
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now i like this
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 10:18 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Jared
I run eibach valve springs and standard size valves. They seem to work fine I have run 28psi with my 3076r.

How many rpms are you turning? I have only turned 7500 so far. once she is running again I plan on changing cams and going up to 8k.
Originally Posted by Jared


This cooler is plenty big and I can promise you it is far more effective than the one that you have even though it is smaller. Notice how the air comes in at the top of one side and exits the bottom of the other. Also notice the ducting which seals it to the bumper. Both of these things ensure that the 100% of the cooler is being used. unlike your "big" cooler which has both the inlet and outlet at the bottom so there is no cross flow, Most of the air is going through the bottom 2/3 of the cooler. Also there is nothing keep the air from traveling around it rather than through it.

.
Originally Posted by Rollinz
Ive only gone to 7200 on std "rs" oil pump,
I too am using std size valves and cams from a 1.8 zetec, i was using peugeot valve springs as there isnt much option over here in uk, but i had valve float issues at 1.7 bar on the 3582,
The custom valve spring job im having done uses double springs from a rover "k" series engine, while havin the spring conversion ive also chosen some 275 degree cams, inlet has 10mm lift and exhaust has 10.5mm lift,

Ive also purchased a ford racing oil pump and plan to up the revs to 8200 maybe 8500, i know i can break 600 bhp just with the higher rpm, but whilst i have changed the spec i also sold my gt3582 and picked up a gtx 3582...
So its going to be interesting

I cant wait to see your project come along!
First of all i did know eibach made valve springs? Thats interesting.

I appreciate you dont like people questioning why you are using a particular part, but considering you havent actually seen what intercooler i am using you can hardly comment on the effectiveness of mine agaisnt yours, hence this reply. Yes i have looked at your cooler, and still the overall surface area is still small, but considering you use it only for drag racing then im sure is effiecient for 30sec blasts. Also you mentioned that the pipe comes in at the top of one side and out of the bottom of the other... Now i cant see the point of that, which i would love for you to explain, as the air is under pressure and is going to be exit out the intercooler in the shortest route unless it is guided through a paritcular one, but all i can see the air in your intercooler doing, is entering at the top, hitting the RHS end tank and then exiting to the throttle body, but if i have got it wrong then please explain...

Again, you havent seen my car so how do you know the air travels around my intercooler?? it sits about 5mm away from my front bumper grill and it covers the whole of my grill, so if air can travel around it then good luck. Also there are quite large fins inbetween the cores so allows good air flow through the cooler.

heres a few pictures of my cooler to have a peak at, its got a 100mm core by the way.

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Rollinz... Thats quite an impressive spec, i would be interested to see how you car handles the power. Im using the GTX3076 and it produces very goos figures so far and ive only hit 1.4 bar...
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 01:25 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by ST Turbo
First of all i did know eibach made valve springs? Thats interesting.

I appreciate you dont like people questioning why you are using a particular part, but considering you havent actually seen what intercooler i am using you can hardly comment on the effectiveness of mine agaisnt yours, hence this reply. Yes i have looked at your cooler, and still the overall surface area is still small, but considering you use it only for drag racing then im sure is effiecient for 30sec blasts. Also you mentioned that the pipe comes in at the top of one side and out of the bottom of the other... Now i cant see the point of that, which i would love for you to explain, as the air is under pressure and is going to be exit out the intercooler in the shortest route unless it is guided through a paritcular one, but all i can see the air in your intercooler doing, is entering at the top, hitting the RHS end tank and then exiting to the throttle body, but if i have got it wrong then please explain...

Again, you havent seen my car so how do you know the air travels around my intercooler?? it sits about 5mm away from my front bumper grill and it covers the whole of my grill, so if air can travel around it then good luck. Also there are quite large fins inbetween the cores so allows good air flow through the cooler.

heres a few pictures of my cooler to have a peak at, its got a 100mm core by the way.









Rollinz... Thats quite an impressive spec, i would be interested to see how you car handles the power. Im using the GTX3076 and it produces very goos figures so far and ive only hit 1.4 bar...
You have answered your own question there pal. The air takes the path of least resistance ie, straight across the bottom of the cooler, unless it is guided by end tanks or internal fins. By turning the tanks around the air is guided to all the cooler and the external cowling is holding the air on the cooler face for longer rather than straight over it. It is being forced through, rather than least resistance over and around.
Jon
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 08:04 PM
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Oooh I see what your saying, makes sense that's the air is forced through the cooler which I totally understand! However you mis interpreted what I was saying. When I said the air is forced through the cooler I meant internally, as in boosted air, rather then the external air! Which is why I didn't understand the point of having tanks at different points, as the air will take a more diagonal route I would of thought! Could be wrong!
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 09:34 PM
  #61  
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No mate you misunderstand me by changing the inlet and outlet it forces the air to go through all the cooler, internally
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 09:36 PM
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Big eBay coolers with the inlets at the top or bottom are les efficient as the air only goes through the internals between the inlet outlets. By putting them at the opposing ends top and bottom the air HAS to go through all the cooling fins
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 09:59 PM
  #63  
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Awesome.
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Old Jan 22, 2012 | 10:38 PM
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Take it Spec-R are doing it wrong aswell then? Not like they're tested or anything...

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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 07:04 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by jonfoc
Big eBay coolers with the inlets at the top or bottom are les efficient as the air only goes through the internals between the inlet outlets. By putting them at the opposing ends top and bottom the air HAS to go through all the cooling fins

I do hope your not implying that my cooler is a cheap ebay jobbie, as i didnt know a Ł500 cooler was cheap!

Ok well i take in what your saying. Thanks, i still think for 600+whp the cooler is a bit pony!
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by zetec-Sam
Take it Spec-R are doing it wrong aswell then? Not like they're tested or anything...

Look at the shape of the tanks smart arse! Positioned to direct air flow down both sides of the core making it very efficient. Its a top feed, not end feed!

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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 08:36 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by ST Turbo
I do hope your not implying that my cooler is a cheap ebay jobbie, as i didnt know a Ł500 cooler was cheap!

Ok well i take in what your saying. Thanks, i still think for 600+whp the cooler is a bit pony!
Not suggesting your cooler is a cheapy at all. I have an airtec one too. Just saying that It doesn't have to be the biggest cooler you can fit, it just needs to be efficient.
If you look at spec-r coolers that zetec sam is on about the pipe work is positioned not to cause any or very little "eddies" and force the air to the entire cooler core. Eddies are like whirlpools of air that is turbulent and goes nowhere, spec r have placed their pipework in places to reduces these mis guided current flows.
I may be wrong but I studied it at tech many years ago
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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 10:33 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by zetec-Sam
Take it Spec-R are doing it wrong aswell then? Not like they're tested or anything...

Originally Posted by jonfoc
Not suggesting your cooler is a cheapy at all. I have an airtec one too. Just saying that It doesn't have to be the biggest cooler you can fit, it just needs to be efficient.
If you look at spec-r coolers that zetec sam is on about the pipe work is positioned not to cause any or very little "eddies" and force the air to the entire cooler core. Eddies are like whirlpools of air that is turbulent and goes nowhere, spec r have placed their pipework in places to reduces these mis guided current flows.
I may be wrong but I studied it at tech many years ago
You are 100% right my friend. 1/2 of the pictured cooler is totally worthless and a cooler 1/2 the size that were configured correctly would be more efficient. A lot of the time what will fit is what is used instead of what is optimum. In many cases a bigger cooler can actually hurt you. Remember, a cooler is only effective if there is airflow through it, both internally and externally.

Something like this with the proper ducting would be the most optimum setup. A vertical pass with many more flow tubes is much more efficient than the same dimensions with very long tubes like the lower of the 2. However, space confinements usually dictate that the 2nd is used more often than the first.


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Old Jan 23, 2012 | 11:34 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by jonfoc
Big eBay coolers with the inlets at the top or bottom are les efficient as the air only goes through the internals between the inlet outlets. By putting them at the opposing ends top and bottom the air HAS to go through all the cooling fins
IMO what a load of crap my ebay cooler was Ł60 it just been taken to 415hp with no problems.

i would love to test the point you have just put forward if it proves me wrong then so be it but i dout it tbh lol..

whats to say the air enters the top of your cooler gets shot across the first 4 rows of your cooler (as thats the angle the inlet pipe of your cooler aims the air) then hits the end tank and travels down to the out let of your cooler... it dosent HavE to pass over all the bars of the cooler at all!

in fact the best way to have the inlet and out lets positioned on ANY intercooler would be dead center of ALL the cooling bars correct???........................................

HANG ON!!!!!!

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JUST LIKE MY Ł60 EBAY COOLER
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 01:15 AM
  #70  
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Its not quite that simple. It would be true if you took an air gun and pointed the nozzle at the opening. But when you are using it for an engine the turbo is not only pushing the air through the cooler but the engine is also pulling air on the other side. You have to think of the air as a fluid and how that fluid reacts once it fills the entire volume.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 04:45 AM
  #71  
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Making it proper wheel drive, good man
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 09:26 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Jared
Its not quite that simple. It would be true if you took an air gun and pointed the nozzle at the opening. But when you are using it for an engine the turbo is not only pushing the air through the cooler but the engine is also pulling air on the other side. You have to think of the air as a fluid and how that fluid reacts once it fills the entire volume.
But the engine compression effect will have no bearing, due to the force of the turbocharged air. Due to the pressure said air is under, unless you are running a massive cooler with fuck all boost, it will fill the whole cooler, if it didn't, and left a void, once it left the cooler it would be under no pressure!
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 11:02 AM
  #73  
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That silver I/cooler below the spec r one is how I made mine, after looking in to it shit loaded, and short tubes but more off is better than long tubes with less of, as that is wrote in black and White in a lot of books ref" I/cooler but most cars don't have the room hence long tubes but less of,
Tubes opposite each other is ok if the cooler isn't to tall with tappered end tanks but the most efficient would be to have inlet at bottom and outlet at top on the op side or vice verser but then it also comes down to core / turbulaters in tubes/ internal plates ( for direction so the air is equally spread with in the cooler) and so on, and if your intercooler doesn't have all this then it doesn't mean it won't work it just means it may not be as good as it could be , there loads more I could write but I can't be asred as its all been said before, nice cars all the above
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 11:17 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by J1mbo
That seems very keen on the power for the boost as on the yb engine were seeing 540bhp at 32psi and the yb is a much better Engine
I was going to say it but i was waiting for some else to so thanks Jim , remember everything in the US is bigger inc the power figures. Id put a large sum of money on if it was strapped on Harveys Superflow we would be seeing a figure of around 100-150hp less. Dont ask me why but as we all know we know what figures Area six and Harvey get out of similar engines.

Better shut up now !

Last edited by packman; Jan 24, 2012 at 11:19 AM.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 11:27 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by Jared
Its not quite that simple. It would be true if you took an air gun and pointed the nozzle at the opening. But when you are using it for an engine the turbo is not only pushing the air through the cooler but the engine is also pulling air on the other side. You have to think of the air as a fluid and how that fluid reacts once it fills the entire volume.
Lol when there is a presure mesured in the intercooler (any think over 100kpa) that is regarded as positive presure 100kpa is the MOST an engine can be drawing in with out the help of forsed induction! any think over this the engine is not sucking the air in at all but its being forced in hence the rise in inlet presure
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 11:28 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by packman
I was going to say it but i was waiting for some else to so thanks Jim , remember everything in the US is bigger inc the power figures. Id put a large sum of money on if it was strapped on Harveys Superflow we would be seeing a figuJre of around 100-150hp less. Dont ask me why but as we all know we know what figures Area six and Harvey get out of similar engines.

Better shut up now !
100% agree
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by clarke5700
IMO what a load of crap my ebay cooler was Ł60 it just been taken to 415hp with no problems.

i would love to test the point you have just put forward if it proves me wrong then so be it but i dout it tbh lol..

whats to say the air enters the top of your cooler gets shot across the first 4 rows of your cooler (as thats the angle the inlet pipe of your cooler aims the air) then hits the end tank and travels down to the out let of your cooler... it dosent HavE to pass over all the bars of the cooler at all!

in fact the best way to have the inlet and out lets positioned on ANY intercooler would be dead center of ALL the cooling bars correct???........................................

HANG ON!!!!!!



JUST LIKE MY Ł60 EBAY COOLER
Im not arguing with you Clarke. Your cooler is not like the massive cheap ebay coolers that people buy. It is fit for purpose, the discussion is about size not cost and quality. I see people turning up at my pals garage with coolers that cover the front of the car, just because its big doesn't make it efficient. If you look at some of the coolers out there they are end fed and they are not effecient as they will not fill or feed the cooling fins. Yours is small compact and the end cans are feeding all the fins, hence great performance due to its efficiency.
Jareds cooler is small but it fills and clearly performs.
So back to the start of this debate, bigger doesn't mean best! A correctly fed smaller capacity cooler may and probably will out perform a much larger less efficient one.
Spec r's coolers have been tested and look at how the air is fed in and the shape of the end tanks, thats why they work so well
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 01:43 PM
  #78  
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COCHYN
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I agree above, especially on Zetec Turbo's. But it depends on the setup you're running IMO. The intercoolers I made used the basic universal ebay jobbie which gave the exact figures the bigger and MUCH more expensive Pro Alloy system did with an intercooler that's roughly half the size. Baring in mind, this was on the standard GT25.





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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 04:39 PM
  #79  
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I agree with cochyn, it's all to do with the set up and the purpose of the vehicle! As if a car is only used for 20sec drags then a big Intercooler isn't all ways necessary! Also what everyone is saying about long straight coolers are worse then ones with small but lot of lines, quick question for you, if the air travels along the a 500mm cooler its going to go through the cooler pretty quickly, where as if you had a cooler 1000mm long, then the air will be in the Intercooler for twice as long and hence should reduce the air temp a noticeable amount more...?

Also think that the depth of the cooler and the size of the fins I between the lines and how compact they are can make a difference of how efficient the cooler is!

To be fair there are a lot more variables to consider! Either way, I'm happy with the cooler I've got, it works very well! It's just annoying when people claim figures which are very impressive, but the spec doesn't really match!
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 09:47 PM
  #80  
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What an animal, loving the total change in direction now
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