Hello and quick timing belt queries
#1
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Hello and quick timing belt queries
Hello!
New to Fords but my wife now has an 02 1.6 zetec Focus which I must say I am really pleased with. I guess I will be hanging around here asking loads of novice questions for the coming months! I am very experienced mechanically so it is just the subtleties of the Ford which will catch me out. Which leads me on to..........
I am replacing the timing belt this weekend. Happy with, and understand the procedure. I have all the parts and the tools. Also have a couple of questions:-
1. The timing tool kit I have has two different length pins for what appears to be the crank location tool, one considerably longer than the other. I suppose it will become obvious but is it the long or the short which I will need.
2. When it comes to torquing the cam sprockets, are there any flats on the cams to hold them or do you really need the special tool which sits in the sprocket to counter the torque you are applying?
I have the belt, tensioner, idler, cam gasket, crank bolt, locking tool for flywheel, locating tools for crank and cams. Anything obvious I have missed?
I will also service the engine at the same time, anything unusual or is it all regular stuff?
Thanks in anticipation!!
Andy.
New to Fords but my wife now has an 02 1.6 zetec Focus which I must say I am really pleased with. I guess I will be hanging around here asking loads of novice questions for the coming months! I am very experienced mechanically so it is just the subtleties of the Ford which will catch me out. Which leads me on to..........
I am replacing the timing belt this weekend. Happy with, and understand the procedure. I have all the parts and the tools. Also have a couple of questions:-
1. The timing tool kit I have has two different length pins for what appears to be the crank location tool, one considerably longer than the other. I suppose it will become obvious but is it the long or the short which I will need.
2. When it comes to torquing the cam sprockets, are there any flats on the cams to hold them or do you really need the special tool which sits in the sprocket to counter the torque you are applying?
I have the belt, tensioner, idler, cam gasket, crank bolt, locking tool for flywheel, locating tools for crank and cams. Anything obvious I have missed?
I will also service the engine at the same time, anything unusual or is it all regular stuff?
Thanks in anticipation!!
Andy.
#3
PassionFord Post Troll
You use the shorter pin for the 1.4 and 1.6.The longer pin is for the 1.8 and 2.0.You also have a bar to lock the cams.You will also need a new crankshaft bolt.The crank is tricky as it,s free floating and dificult to time.Done mine last year.Get a HAYNES and it,s easy.
#4
PassionFord Post Troll
for the love of god do NOT remove the cam pulleys!!!
1. theres no need to, the timing of the cams is kept by the locking bar in the back of the cams.
2. its a cheap desgn where there are no flats or woodruff keys the cams and pulleys are just tapered and if not torqued up properly they will spin fucking your valves and needing a replacement engine. best to just leave them, when these engines were first built if they spin during testing the engine is just binned at the factory!
one thing you may find when locking the crank (i did on my 2l) is that you can still turn the crank one way so make sure its turned back to the pin (acts as a stop when you turn the crank back). its not difficult just something i noiced and to be aware of.
one last thing you may or may not know. dont use the crank locking pin and cam locking bar to lock the engine to undo the crank pulley bolt, it wont work and you may damage something. i've always had an assistant (mum, dad or brother) to stick the car in gear and stand bum off seat on the brakes while i attack the bolt with my breaker bar....its quite tight
Ps. get a cam bet kit with the pulleys and do the water pump while your there!
1. theres no need to, the timing of the cams is kept by the locking bar in the back of the cams.
2. its a cheap desgn where there are no flats or woodruff keys the cams and pulleys are just tapered and if not torqued up properly they will spin fucking your valves and needing a replacement engine. best to just leave them, when these engines were first built if they spin during testing the engine is just binned at the factory!
one thing you may find when locking the crank (i did on my 2l) is that you can still turn the crank one way so make sure its turned back to the pin (acts as a stop when you turn the crank back). its not difficult just something i noiced and to be aware of.
one last thing you may or may not know. dont use the crank locking pin and cam locking bar to lock the engine to undo the crank pulley bolt, it wont work and you may damage something. i've always had an assistant (mum, dad or brother) to stick the car in gear and stand bum off seat on the brakes while i attack the bolt with my breaker bar....its quite tight
Ps. get a cam bet kit with the pulleys and do the water pump while your there!
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Thanks for comments so far.....
1st problem, there is a sensor in the middle of the cam cover, can't get fingers in to disconnect it and don't want to pull on the wires.......
Whats the trick please?
Thanks,
Andy
1st problem, there is a sensor in the middle of the cam cover, can't get fingers in to disconnect it and don't want to pull on the wires.......
Whats the trick please?
Thanks,
Andy
#7
20K+ Super Poster.
The correct way to do it is with a bar or 8mm rod across the slots in rear of cams, loosen the cam sprockets, just enough so they rotate, I've never used a new one and never had a problem with the crank bolt, or the cam bolts, just retorque to correct amount it will be fine.
Be aware, though not sure on your year there are two different r/c gaskets so might pay to buy both from ford and take back the wrong one for refund, last one I did was a T reg 2.0 ghia, and despite the reg etc ford supplied the wrong one.
Note carefully, maybe even take a piccie of the aux belt run around ps pump, crank etc, can save time.
tabetha
Be aware, though not sure on your year there are two different r/c gaskets so might pay to buy both from ford and take back the wrong one for refund, last one I did was a T reg 2.0 ghia, and despite the reg etc ford supplied the wrong one.
Note carefully, maybe even take a piccie of the aux belt run around ps pump, crank etc, can save time.
tabetha
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#8
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All done without any drama! You have to be very careful when you put the crank pin in, i.e. only put it in when it is almost at TDC otherwise it stops the crank in the wrong position. I can see why people struggle with the crank pulley bolt but I reckon its 40% knowledge, 40% Tools and 20% Luck. Actually had far more trouble getting it tight enough, only managed 75 deg of the final 90 deg turn and broke my snap on 18mm socket!
Serviced it while I was at it..... the top quick release clip on the fuel filter is fun isnt it.........
Thanks for the help.
Serviced it while I was at it..... the top quick release clip on the fuel filter is fun isnt it.........
Thanks for the help.
#10
PassionFord Regular
I do these all the time and find it just as easy to take the 3 bolts out of the starter and shove it to one side. You can then lock the engine up by sticking something in the flywheel teeth to lock it propper. Makes life very easy for that FOOOOKING crank bolt,,,,,,lol
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