FastLife91

My car- 2006 mk2 ford focus sport 1.8 tdci.

Over past month or 2 when starting my car after overnight park it smokes (white) quite a bit, when you press the accelerator during this the car kind of shakes, definitely feels like a misfire as though it is not running on all 4 cylinders at start-up.
However after 30 seconds to 1 minute it clears up and car drives great all day/night. then this happens again the following morning on start-up.
It is very unlikely to be glow plugs, I have put 2 new sets in and still the problem remains, the glow [plug relay shows on the dashboard so I assume that is also fine.

There are no codes on the dashboard, car runs great after initial start-up.

here is a short video of it on YouTube which I filmed not long ago.

thank you all very much and I sincerely appreciated in advance any help/.advice you can offer.


https://youtu.be/eJKY4AY-LJc


edit : car was leaking from 1 or 2 injectors about 18 months ago, my friend replaced the seal on 1 and glues the others back in (not supposed to do that apparently ? ) and no leaks of fuel since but car chugs on idle occasionally when engine is cold but his does not affect the performance of the car, it has been chugging since the day I bought it , never figured out why. When the car chugs it stops chugging when the clutch is brought up but why ??

gcfcos

First thing it needs is an injector leak off test if u suspect the injectors mate

Martin-Hadland

iTrader: (2)

Glow plugs all working?

FastLife91

Hello

thank you for your kind reply.

What is an injector leak off test, is it difficult for somebody with not much experience to do themselves and are the injectors required to be removed to do this test ?

thank you very much

FastLife91

Hi, thank you very much for your kind response.

I forgot to mention in the OP that It is very unlikely to be glow plugs, I have put 2 new sets in and still the problem remains, the glow [plug relay shows on the dashboard so I assume that is also fine.

thanks again

burnzy

I know it's hard to tell on a video but isn't it knocking it's tits off? if plugs are ok then injectors are next port of call.

3i Jim

With all due respect, you struggled to do up a union on your turbo oil feed pipe. I doubt you'll be able to do an injector leak off test.

smiley

I had the exact same problem on my v50 2.0 d (ford engine) got a big puff of white on a motorway run then after same symtoms from cold i looked on forums and volvo it pointed towards either injectors or a cracked block i gave it a week and chopped it in to many miles on it to spend on it it apeared on ebay saying it had Ł1000 spent on new injectors frw months went by and it apeared again advert changed to read smokes when cold hence new price 1500 lower

slammedorion

Oh no not again
Going by previous threads, it could be anything you've touched tbh
Best thing you can do is give us all the registration numbers of the cars you've worked on
So we can avoid working on them...

Just give up the spanners ffs, your a liability

ray barker

hello there theres nothing really wrong with it this time. its what you call inbalance when diesel engines start to get worn not f...ed the cylinders warm up at slightly different rates.diesel engines are compresion ignition engines when start from cold it seems like its missfireing but its just the componants exspanding to the wright temp after a minute or two its fine smoke is normal. just dont rev it to hard when its doing this

FastLife91

Hi, thanks for your kind reply.

It's been making this noise since a few days after when I first bought in about 19 months ago.
It only makes this noise very rarely and only lasts 10 seconds or so and when it makes this noise a light comes on very briefly on the dashboard for about 3 seconds and then goes off. the light looks similar to the parking brake light but with a cog around it. also the light does not always come on when it makes this noise. sometimes it knocks for 3 seconds and idles normally then a few seconds later knocks again briefly but it is very rare it knocks at all. Somebody said the light is a power train light.
It does not knock throughout the day, just sometimes when starting the car from over night park and it is only very briefly when it does.


what are your thoughts on this advice ?



Hi, thank you for your very kind reply.

I know what you are saying as many diesel cars do smoke on start-up and take a minute or 2 to clear but this issue with my car is not normal and if you were to witness it in person you would surely agree, it has only begun doing this over last month or 2 and it is definitely not right.

I appreciate your reply and would further appreciate any reply whenever possible.

thank you so much.


hi, thank you for your kind reply.

I admit it took about 10 days to get the bolt tight but even some friends who had a look said it was difficult and easier in the long run to remove the back of the engine but as I had already spent so long trying to tighten this bolt I decided to not go that route and so my friend ended up altering the bolt cutting slots into it in order for me to get a turn.
However had I took the required parts off to tighten it to begin with I'd have completed the job much sooner and had I known it was going to take so long I'd have took the other route.
So it wasn't a case of finding it difficult as per se, it is just a new learning curve and I know now doing it the other way would have been easier.

I have done several jobs on this car in the last 8 months, radiator, wheel bearing, glow plugs, steering arms, track rod ends, brake pads, brakes discs, CV joint gaiter, thermostat, e.t..c and I actually found them all easy, this bolt took me so long because I couldn't do anything else/further until I got that tight it was just a bolt I was stuck on that wouldn't budge past finger tight so it was like I'd hit a wall and came to a halt.

I know with a bit of help and advice/support and watching some tutorials that I'll be able to tackle doing a leak off test no problem.


cheers

Actually a chemical test revealed bad head gasket on my car 15 months ago but all this time later no symptoms other than topping up water once a fortnight, no oil/water mix, no smoke, (apart from now in morning) no power loss at all, in fact it has a lot of power.
I'm wondering if the chemical test that was last done ( 15 months ago) picked up on an apparent head gasket change that was supposedly done a year before as when I first got this car it overheated and garage said it was the head gasket, they charged |Ł800 but I have been told by different mechanics it looks very likely it has not been changed.

But my car has had leaking injectors before (guy working on it glued some back in ) , does chug on idle and very rarely knocks fora brief 5 seconds in the morning ( followed by what I have been told is a power train light that comes on and off for about 5 seconds, looks like parking brake but has cog around it), also the economy doesn't seem to match up and seems around 8 mpg lower than predicted figures.

could a bad head gasket cause the problems on the start-uo that you see in this video ?


thanks again and please reply when possible.


hello, thank you for your kind reply.

.....................

smiley

Good info if correct never heard that befor my milage was 150k mostly motorway but what made me get rid quick was the big white cloud that came out filled all 3 lanes then the cold problem day after head gasket? Crack?

FastLife91

hello

could the symptoms in my video be a bad head gasket ?


thank you so much and please reply when you can

smiley

I think rays your man on this mate i never went as far as to find out the dxplanation hes given is fitting but as youve said in the past you had possible head gasket probs so maybe is your water level dropping in your header tank?

FastLife91

Hi friend, thank you for your kind reply, I hope he answers as he has given my very helpful advice in the short time I have been here.

Yes, the day I purchased it driving home it was overheating and a garage diagnosed a bad head gasket 2 days later and it was 2 weeks until the car was returned to me, but several mechanics from elsewhere says it looks very unlikely to have been replaced.
It was a year ago since it began loosing water and chemical test indicated bad head gasket. I am wondering if it is reading on the test from when the last head gasket (if it was actually done)
Someone I used to call a friend once did a job and did not put the water hose back onto the bulkhead properly and after several minutes of driving I realized it was overheating and it was several months later It began loosing water from the tank, not overly fast but still.
anyway it's been over a year since then and no oil/water mix, no power loss, no smoke (other than this brief issue from overnight start) ,

Lately I top up the water and after driving it for 10 minutes or so the tank is empty but it doesn't overheat and if I remove cap when hot the water rises to near full as if it is air locked ?
I could basically top up water and drive 10 minutes and tank will show empty but can drive for 800 miles or so with hot air without any problems and I decide jut to top it up to be on the safe side, if I take cap off the water rushes up almost filling the tan so there must be plenty of water in there but just showing empty after 10 minutes or so from filling it ?

Thanks again and please reply with any thoughts on this when you can.

slammedorion

Have you fixed any water pipes recently? Or done owt with the coolant system?

FastLife91

hi, thanks again for your kind response.

Not recently but in the past 8 months I've replaced the radiator as it burst, I replaced 2 rubber hoses and a metal cooling pipe which sprung a leak, the top radiator hose seems to feel under higher than average pressure imo.

not long ago I took off the thermostat to try and test it

any thoughts on this

thanks ?

stevos

Sounds like your water system is pressurising due to head gasket failure. Get a sniff test done at your local garage. It's the only way to diagnose.

Rowe

oh for god sake! haha

ray barker

the only way you will cure the inbalance or chugging as you call it is to have a rebuild. if you have head gasket probs and its all ready been diagnosed by a proffesional is to get the h/g done. how ever there is a product you can buy online im not sure if someone like halfords would have its a miracle bodge it will stop a blown h/g in front of your eyes but this stuff is the ultimate bodge up. ive seen vids on it ive read reports on it ive had no personal exsperience with this stuff and will never have. i cant remember what its called a bit of digging online will get your stuff this is wright up your street. what ever advise i dispens is from a quallifed mechanic/panal beater sprayer thats been in the motor trade most of my life untill recent. my advise to you is not to spend anymore money on the pig. down my way you can pick up a half decent run about sumut like a td for 500 nicker thats probably allot better than what you got. i would drive yours without spending any money on it untill it shits it self good an propper

RichieST

iTrader: (2)

Bottle of k-seal in the header tank, sell it and buy an astra.

ray barker

is that what that stuff is called k-seal lol. do you no much about the 1.7 cdti ive recently bought an 11 plate im hopeing its got the izuzu engine is there an easy to tell by looking at it

RichieST

iTrader: (2)

Not a clue, but astra's are usually driven by knob heads so thought the op would fit right in

FastLife91

hello.

I first noticed the car chugging on the day I bought it, it was in a garage 2 days later because it was overheating also the day I bought it and after getting the car back from the garage after the apparent head gasket replacement it was still chugging driving it off the garage.

may I ask why you suggest a rebuild because it is chugging ? could injectors and other things not cause that ? the chugging goes way when bringing there clutch up.

thanks

ray barker

most of your probs are from cold start up. your first post on this was as you call it chugging on cold start. this is called inbalance.a good inalagy if ive spelt that wright is if you put your thumb over the end of a bike pump and push the handle up quick it burns. this is similar to the way that the diesel engine ignites its fuel its called compression ignition. when the pistons/rings/bores wear you dont get the same heat on all cylinders when cold. so on cold start it sounds and feels like a missfire this is the inbalance. after being run for a short while the pistons exspand with heat and goes away. the only way to cure this is a rebuild. but since your fist post on this youv added a whole host of other isues which can make your original post worse ijector probs will add to your chugging as you call it so will head gasket problems. this is a simple analagy theres is alot more to it than this it would take me a week to exsplain and with my bad grammer no fuker would understand it. your not the best at fixing cars but at least you can fucking spell lol

ray barker

oh ps what happened to your rounded wheel nut

gcfcos

I'd say bung it in the auctions sharpish

ray barker

ideal cliff car