I took my car down to "MAD FOR IT" this morning to try and get her running properly but something is telling the ECU to adjust the timing which is throwing it way out???
Different ECUs where tried, also dif Dizzy but still the same prob???

Anyone had this prob or know how to sort it???

Nick

 

the vacuum pipe from the ecu is ok int it, not crushed by the heater box, or leaking?

 

Colin from "mad for it" is sure its an electrical fault of some sort

What does the vacuum pipe do? What kind of effect would it have if it where crushed or leaking?
Also the coil has been moved from its normal position, its screwed/bolted by the bk of the meatering unit,could it make a difference being there?
Im no mechanic just a hairy arsed roofer

Nick

 

HI,
As above check the vacuum pipe from the manifold to ecu is not obstructed
a check for the ecu timing is blow down the pipe and with a strobe light
the timing should retard, and if you suck on the pipe the timing should advance.

Dave R.

 

Thanks for the replies chaps

What will this tell me then???
What part is at fault???
Sorry im just a roofer i aint a mechanic or very clued up about this sort of thing

Nick

 

mrh,

it will tell if the ecu is at fault, the silver one out of the 2,

DAVE R.

 

knock sensor. very common.

 

Tried a new " Knock Sensor" but still the same prob

 

Hi,

Have you tried another ECU. JUST seen you have tried already
Doesent make sense as if you have tried all above should have the fault
sorted. how much in degrees is the timing altering.at a stable revs.
Dave R.

 

To be honest mate i havent got a clue how many degrees its altering

Ive had the timeing done 3 times within in 2 weeks now and after a while say 1 day it just goes shite again! I took the car to "mad for it" tried diff ecus, dizzies,knock sensor but its still the same? Could a broken wire mess it up?
I really want to get her running properly so i can just drive cos at the mo i cant get about cos i was told not to go driving her hard incase it goes "POP"

nick

 

HI,
In theory if you set the satic timing(engine not running to the engine casing
marks approx 12deg, btdc, AND the rotor arm is pointing to no1 in the distributor position, then the ECU RUNS it from there, the dissy has a
in lay mans terms a switch inside it for a signal to the ecu so with the vacuum pipe
connected to the ECU AND inlet manifold the ecu knows what load is on the engine,
as we have said earlier about the vacuum pipe not being kinked or squashed
before it connects to the ecu, pull the pipe off the inlet manifold stub and blow
down it to see if it is clear remove it off ecu watch you dont snap the union
on the ecu, if all seems good at that end, check with the same pipe back on the manifold and try and blow into the manifold,COULD be partly blocked inside the
manifold causing a varied reading to the ECU load, also check the stub is sercurer on the manifold, Cant think of anything else
as all faults seem covered,

DAVE R.

 

make sure the knock sensor plug isnt shorting out

 

Which sensor is that then? where abouts is it and what colour should it be?

NIck

 

Up ya go