1988 rs turbo running 16psi, about 160bhp.

First one, is there a certain gap on the plugs, I set them to .8 and it started to miss under boost, same at .6 but okay at .25, using ngk r.

Setup at the rolling at nobles, car was running mint, but recently when it gets to 4 and a half rpm it sometimes holds bk, any ideas what this is. something to do with plugs??

When u press the windows, or the brake peddle, the rev counter jumps, any ideas what this is?????? when the light are on the battery light comes on faintly, or the more power u use the brighter it gets, but its still charging well, as I have a volt meter on it. Any help well appreciated. Thanks.

 

i set my gap at 0.65 and runs fne on 18psi,could be your boost hose feeding the turbo is collapsing and holding back at 4500rpm,as for your last problem sounds like the altenator is fooked,hope this helps.

 

what plugs do you use?? what leads, mine are standerd leads. what about coil? the car was holding back bad before it went to nobles, but he said it was massivly overfuelling, and it was then not holding bk, same boost hose. I think it started when I changed the leads and plugs. Alternater is new.

Set the plugs at .6 and it was if the boost was blowing the spark out it missed on all four. maybe the spark is weak somehow. Anyway thanks for the help well appreciated.

 

using bcr8es at the mo,ordered a set of motocraft agps701's from ford,have got magnecor 8.5mm leads and standard ford no difference imo,maybe duff plugs you have.

 

maybe, dont think so has it has done it on two sets.. Im really stuck on this one. think I should try them ur using, is it a stronger spark?????? were u get leads from, could it be a weak coil?????

 

i had the same problem with mine i used diffrent plugs every time could not find what was wrong so i got some from my locol ford dealer, i just ask for s2 1600 plugs thay gave me motorcraft and i never had any problems after, im running on lucas ht leads and a standard coil. my engine has been taken out to 1700 im running on 17psi with a chip and pace intercooler. as for the battery light well i have the same problem at the mo check all earth wire on the body and clean them, accross the front member u will find a wire that joins just like a male and female conector u will need to have a look at that some times that can be a problem as water gets to it and it run's just under the rad so it my be rubbing and shorting out i have had this problem before. gook luck

 

i didnt gap the plugs i just fitted them but dont remember what gap thay are.

 

Not sure if the alternators the same make/model as on the s1 but mine does the same thing, its charging ok but the light is glowing very dim, i asked my boss if there was a fault with the alternator but he reckons on older cars sometimes theres not enough power to fully knock out the charge light. Way i see it is if its charging ok leave it, or take it a auto electrician n' ask them to check it out with the amp metre and a voltage check to be sure.

How was it at John Noble Motorsport, would you recommend them?

 

i dont see that at all why didnt it do it from new ? ive had 6 old fords escort and orion never had that problem till i got a s2 but it only started doing it last sept since then its been of the road.

 

Thats what i thought... i'll query it tomorrow n find out what the reason is behind it.....

 

yea o.k bud let us know please untill then try what ive said as i have come across it on a few fords when i repair them at home, ive had a new alternator myself but it did nothing th light was nstill on dim, now it will not keep a charge at all times.

 

i got my magnecor leads from woodford garage (8.5mm)

 

o.k i have something else to say about the battery light lads, first thing is a standard 1600 cvh alternator can be 45amp or 55amp, the s1 r.s turbo has got a 55amp but the s2 has a 70amp alternator. if u have a 55amp yes it will charge but it will not give the charge [power] the battery needs. if you have a s2 make sure you have got a 70amp alternator on it. most peaple say any 1600 cvh alternator will fit but yea sure thay are right but thay dont think about what amp it is.

 

The reason for your light glowing dim is more than likely as i thought, with age the wiring or connectors have probably corroded or just need a clean... you need a good full 12 volts to knock the charge light out, so for example say you have a good feed from your main pos on the alternator but the ignition feed wiring from the alternator to your light has a poor connection it'll put a slight voltage resistance on which is enough to leave the warning light glowing but not interfere with charging. It could mean taking the dash out just to clean the contacts but to be honest if you can live with it its not really worth worrying about, could take a while to trace the cause of the resistance. i.e wiring, connectors, even the dash pod itself where the warning lights fed...

 

course if ypu have a volt gauge you could just take the lamp out of the clocks