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Engine Rebuild : 1st time Start Advice needed

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Old 12-01-2014, 09:40 PM
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TIL13R
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Default Engine Rebuild : 1st time Start Advice needed

Hello all...

The time has finally come and the engine is ready to be started....

Spec is as follows...

1.6 CVH

Stg 3 Port and Polished head
Newman phase 4 cam
Solid Lifters
Pec Rods
Wossner Pistons
ACL Bearings
Arp bolts

Will be run in on Millers running in oil...

Is it a matter of just filling it with oil and cranking it over without coil pack attached to build pressure before firing the car up?

Have heard of taking cam cover off and pouring oil all over the cam and lifters and then filling with oil and doing the above...

Just don't want all the money I have spent messed up by a silly error..

Thanks a lot
Old 16-01-2014, 10:22 AM
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Versus_Creations
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if you have engine build up lube on the cam and lifters then you shouldn't need to pour oil over it all. If you built it dry then by the time you get oil pressure you could mark any of the components. After building a new engine this is a vital time to make sure you damage it the least.

Sometimes oil pumps take a while to build the pressure up.

Remove the spark plugs and injector plugs if EFi or fuel pump relay etc. Then turn so there is no pressure in the cylinders. Will turn much easier and you could put a dab of oil down each bore while trying to get oil pressure, at least you wont damage the rings.

Every little helps.
Old 16-01-2014, 11:00 AM
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TIL13R
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Originally Posted by Versus_Creations
if you have engine build up lube on the cam and lifters then you shouldn't need to pour oil over it all. If you built it dry then by the time you get oil pressure you could mark any of the components. After building a new engine this is a vital time to make sure you damage it the least.

Sometimes oil pumps take a while to build the pressure up.

Remove the spark plugs and injector plugs if EFi or fuel pump relay etc. Then turn so there is no pressure in the cylinders. Will turn much easier and you could put a dab of oil down each bore while trying to get oil pressure, at least you wont damage the rings.

Every little helps.
Thanks for the reply.... Yes was built up with cam lube..

As you mention its any little bits that help as dont want to throw away all the time and money...

Fingers crossed for a dry weekend so can get it finally started up...

Yes it is EFI so will remove the Injector plugs...

What would you advise to gap the plus too..?

Thanks again...
Old 16-01-2014, 03:15 PM
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If its EFi with coilpack I would try them without gapping first to see if they will run the boost ok. Depends on plug of choice and application tbh.

I would rather not change the gap if you can avoid it out the box.
Old 16-01-2014, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Versus_Creations
If its EFi with coilpack I would try them without gapping first to see if they will run the boost ok. Depends on plug of choice and application tbh.

I would rather not change the gap if you can avoid it out the box.
I am running genuine motorcraft leads and plugs, all on EFI

Cheers

Tiller

Last edited by TIL13R; 16-01-2014 at 04:07 PM.
Old 16-01-2014, 07:39 PM
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Karlos G
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As Jano says but I don't agree with putting oil in the bores, it may prevent the rings bedding in properly and without any compression there is no chance of damaging them.

Last edited by Karlos G; 16-01-2014 at 07:40 PM.
Old 17-01-2014, 07:43 AM
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A dab of oil I said not filling it up.
If you use mineral oil it will make no diff what so ever to running. turn easy and have less friction on the bore while trying to get oil pressure.

If you dont you could wear the rings slightly due to the amount of times it will turn beforw the oil will be Present.
Old 17-01-2014, 08:06 AM
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In real world terms it probably make little difference either way mate, just thought it worth mentioning in case someone takes it the wrong way and lubes up the bores! lol
Old 17-01-2014, 08:08 AM
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I had a lady once drive over and say she tried to fill the oil up but didnt have enough. Could I top it up.

I checked the level and it was almost full to the top of rocker cover.

So I guess you cant really expect anyone to use common sense.
Old 17-01-2014, 03:34 PM
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hahahahaha
Old 17-01-2014, 07:40 PM
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Since when was sense common?
Old 17-01-2014, 09:14 PM
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Once it does start,and coolant circulated, if possible... drive it.

Don't let it sit there idling for an hour.

If new cam, run cam in using manufacturers recommendations.

Last edited by GVK.; 17-01-2014 at 09:19 PM.
Old 19-01-2014, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by GVK.
Once it does start,and coolant circulated, if possible... drive it. Don't let it sit there idling for an hour. If new cam, run cam in using manufacturers recommendations.
Why do you recomend driving it?
Old 20-01-2014, 11:46 AM
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The piston rings will not bed in very well at idle, low cylinder pressures.
Old 20-01-2014, 05:04 PM
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Exactly that.

Mate rebuilt his Subaru STI motor with a 2.5 new block, Wiseco pistons etc, had clutch issues and it spent a lot of time running at idle before being driven, once it was driven it smoked like hell, I presume due to the fact it had no proper break-in initially.

Ended up having it out and rebored eventually.

Last edited by GVK.; 20-01-2014 at 05:06 PM.
Old 20-01-2014, 08:16 PM
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Bores had probably glazed at a guess if all clearances had been checked at build.
Old 21-01-2014, 07:34 AM
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At idle engines will have a build up of gasses and carbon that will be a negative for a running in engine. As said above the sooner you start to drive any engine the better. Obviously after a short warm up for the oil. But better driving than static all round.
Old 21-01-2014, 05:13 PM
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You want to know that the coolant is circulated too, don't really want to boil up a new build either
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