Engine Rebuild : 1st time Start Advice needed
#1
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Hello all...
The time has finally come and the engine is ready to be started....
Spec is as follows...
1.6 CVH
Stg 3 Port and Polished head
Newman phase 4 cam
Solid Lifters
Pec Rods
Wossner Pistons
ACL Bearings
Arp bolts
Will be run in on Millers running in oil...
Is it a matter of just filling it with oil and cranking it over without coil pack attached to build pressure before firing the car up?
Have heard of taking cam cover off and pouring oil all over the cam and lifters and then filling with oil and doing the above...
Just don't want all the money I have spent messed up by a silly error..
Thanks a lot
The time has finally come and the engine is ready to be started....
Spec is as follows...
1.6 CVH
Stg 3 Port and Polished head
Newman phase 4 cam
Solid Lifters
Pec Rods
Wossner Pistons
ACL Bearings
Arp bolts
Will be run in on Millers running in oil...
Is it a matter of just filling it with oil and cranking it over without coil pack attached to build pressure before firing the car up?
Have heard of taking cam cover off and pouring oil all over the cam and lifters and then filling with oil and doing the above...
Just don't want all the money I have spent messed up by a silly error..
Thanks a lot
#2
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if you have engine build up lube on the cam and lifters then you shouldn't need to pour oil over it all. If you built it dry then by the time you get oil pressure you could mark any of the components. After building a new engine this is a vital time to make sure you damage it the least.
Sometimes oil pumps take a while to build the pressure up.
Remove the spark plugs and injector plugs if EFi or fuel pump relay etc. Then turn so there is no pressure in the cylinders. Will turn much easier and you could put a dab of oil down each bore while trying to get oil pressure, at least you wont damage the rings.
Every little helps.
Sometimes oil pumps take a while to build the pressure up.
Remove the spark plugs and injector plugs if EFi or fuel pump relay etc. Then turn so there is no pressure in the cylinders. Will turn much easier and you could put a dab of oil down each bore while trying to get oil pressure, at least you wont damage the rings.
Every little helps.
#3
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if you have engine build up lube on the cam and lifters then you shouldn't need to pour oil over it all. If you built it dry then by the time you get oil pressure you could mark any of the components. After building a new engine this is a vital time to make sure you damage it the least.
Sometimes oil pumps take a while to build the pressure up.
Remove the spark plugs and injector plugs if EFi or fuel pump relay etc. Then turn so there is no pressure in the cylinders. Will turn much easier and you could put a dab of oil down each bore while trying to get oil pressure, at least you wont damage the rings.
Every little helps.
Sometimes oil pumps take a while to build the pressure up.
Remove the spark plugs and injector plugs if EFi or fuel pump relay etc. Then turn so there is no pressure in the cylinders. Will turn much easier and you could put a dab of oil down each bore while trying to get oil pressure, at least you wont damage the rings.
Every little helps.
As you mention its any little bits that help as dont want to throw away all the time and money...
Fingers crossed for a dry weekend so can get it finally started up...
Yes it is EFI so will remove the Injector plugs...
What would you advise to gap the plus too..?
Thanks again...
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Cheers
Tiller
Last edited by TIL13R; 16-01-2014 at 04:07 PM.
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A dab of oil I said not filling it up.
If you use mineral oil it will make no diff what so ever to running. turn easy and have less friction on the bore while trying to get oil pressure.
If you dont you could wear the rings slightly due to the amount of times it will turn beforw the oil will be Present.
If you use mineral oil it will make no diff what so ever to running. turn easy and have less friction on the bore while trying to get oil pressure.
If you dont you could wear the rings slightly due to the amount of times it will turn beforw the oil will be Present.
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#12
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Once it does start,and coolant circulated, if possible... drive it.
Don't let it sit there idling for an hour.
If new cam, run cam in using manufacturers recommendations.
Don't let it sit there idling for an hour.
If new cam, run cam in using manufacturers recommendations.
Last edited by GVK.; 17-01-2014 at 09:19 PM.
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#15
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Exactly that.
Mate rebuilt his Subaru STI motor with a 2.5 new block, Wiseco pistons etc, had clutch issues and it spent a lot of time running at idle before being driven, once it was driven it smoked like hell, I presume due to the fact it had no proper break-in initially.
Ended up having it out and rebored eventually.
Mate rebuilt his Subaru STI motor with a 2.5 new block, Wiseco pistons etc, had clutch issues and it spent a lot of time running at idle before being driven, once it was driven it smoked like hell, I presume due to the fact it had no proper break-in initially.
Ended up having it out and rebored eventually.
Last edited by GVK.; 20-01-2014 at 05:06 PM.
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