What clutch do you use??
17-04-2013, 12:07 AM
#5
The reason im asking is my Helix Organic is pretty violent when trying to pull away, and I think because of this it has destroyed a release bearing in about 3000 miles.
Just wondering if the AP alternative is a bit more refined, or even the paddle with std pressure plate.
Just wondering if the AP alternative is a bit more refined, or even the paddle with std pressure plate.
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17-04-2013, 10:12 PM
#9
Advanced PassionFord User
I have the same problem with my clutch Chopshop85, I think I should of gone with a AP Organic clutch.
Last edited by makaveli96; 17-04-2013 at 10:13 PM.
17-04-2013, 11:13 PM
#11
I've only put 1300 miles on the clutch kit and flywheel since it was skimmed.
17-04-2013, 11:56 PM
#13
So I guess now there is two questions.
1:Anyone running the alcon 6 paddle and std pressure plate, and what power is it holding at.
2:Where can you buy said Alcon 6 paddle clutch?!?!
17-04-2013, 11:57 PM
#14
I've got the AP organic clutch in mine, 195bhp & 185lb/ft. I got the CP2000-8 kit and did the clutch pedal mod too, feels pretty much like original and handles the power perfectly. Nice gear change without snatching. I have a slight chatter if i try and pull away at almost idle, but i think thats a combo of the clutch and box.
I've only put 1300 miles on the clutch kit and flywheel since it was skimmed.
I've only put 1300 miles on the clutch kit and flywheel since it was skimmed.
18-04-2013, 12:44 AM
#15
Yeah the -35 is what you want for big power (but more money, and im not building a big power car). Plenty of people have used the -8 at up to 250 bhp.
Obviously if you're into drag racing and such you'll want the extra margin. It seems to be a case of 'officially rated to XXX, but actually works above and beyond perfectly fine'.
I did search about a lot before i bought it to make sure i didnt need the -35. I had a standard pressure plate on before, with an LUK friction plate which still seemed to hold at 18psi (though it was a turd engine so not optimum power).
Bare in mind AP will rate their clutches in worst case being that they're a performance item, so if you're drag/circuit racing all day on it then thats the recommended power.
Obviously if you're into drag racing and such you'll want the extra margin. It seems to be a case of 'officially rated to XXX, but actually works above and beyond perfectly fine'.
I did search about a lot before i bought it to make sure i didnt need the -35. I had a standard pressure plate on before, with an LUK friction plate which still seemed to hold at 18psi (though it was a turd engine so not optimum power).
Bare in mind AP will rate their clutches in worst case being that they're a performance item, so if you're drag/circuit racing all day on it then thats the recommended power.
18-04-2013, 12:50 AM
#16
It feels more like the clutch hopping on the flywheel, cause the engine moves a little too. I figured if there was enough movement in the box to give that effect, i'd notice it on the road, on n off throttle etc.
No great hardship to swap for an uprated box if/when current one fails.
18-04-2013, 01:17 AM
#17
Yeah the -35 is what you want for big power (but more money, and im not building a big power car). Plenty of people have used the -8 at up to 250 bhp.
Obviously if you're into drag racing and such you'll want the extra margin. It seems to be a case of 'officially rated to XXX, but actually works above and beyond perfectly fine'.
I did search about a lot before i bought it to make sure i didnt need the -35. I had a standard pressure plate on before, with an LUK friction plate which still seemed to hold at 18psi (though it was a turd engine so not optimum power).
Bare in mind AP will rate their clutches in worst case being that they're a performance item, so if you're drag/circuit racing all day on it then thats the recommended power.
Obviously if you're into drag racing and such you'll want the extra margin. It seems to be a case of 'officially rated to XXX, but actually works above and beyond perfectly fine'.
I did search about a lot before i bought it to make sure i didnt need the -35. I had a standard pressure plate on before, with an LUK friction plate which still seemed to hold at 18psi (though it was a turd engine so not optimum power).
Bare in mind AP will rate their clutches in worst case being that they're a performance item, so if you're drag/circuit racing all day on it then thats the recommended power.
My car is quite a bit different yours. My last dyno run saw 170bhp/195Ft Lbs, which is why I looked at the -35 AP and my current Helix which is rated to 190FtLbs.
I went for the Helix as it was Ł150 cheaper than the AP and I managed to get trade price through a helix supplier I know.
18-04-2013, 10:24 AM
#18
You see I wasn't sure either.
My car is quite a bit different yours. My last dyno run saw 170bhp/195Ft Lbs, which is why I looked at the -35 AP and my current Helix which is rated to 190FtLbs.
I went for the Helix as it was Ł150 cheaper than the AP and I managed to get trade price through a helix supplier I know.
My car is quite a bit different yours. My last dyno run saw 170bhp/195Ft Lbs, which is why I looked at the -35 AP and my current Helix which is rated to 190FtLbs.
I went for the Helix as it was Ł150 cheaper than the AP and I managed to get trade price through a helix supplier I know.
This will change slightly in a few months when cam is adjusted as power is still climbing at the limiter.
I think it really is just a case of the rating is what you can throw at it, in any scenario non stop til theres no lining left. If they rate it at 150 and it starts to slip at 151 you're going to be screaming at them lol, i also thought it might be the power it can handle when launching, that's when theres biggest difference in speed between the two parts. I was sceptical but there were enough people saying theirs was fine to convince me i didnt need spend the extra.
If you're at central day i can take you for a spin in mine so you can see how it is.
18-04-2013, 10:52 AM
#19
you have to remember as well manufacturers will under rate what power they will take fo warranty purposes, the alcon is a very good clutch but like any paddle clutch will need bedding in properly to prevent slip
they are available at woodford garage
they are available at woodford garage
23-04-2013, 05:41 AM
#25
To bed my Alcon in i just drove it gently and used the clutch alot for the 1st 50/60miles... Just going thru the gears and NOT riding it.
Its an Alcon 6Paddle with the Alcon cover plate and it judders slightly when pulling away but nothing like an AP 4 Paddle does. Its holding up fine at an estimated 180bhp tho.
Its an Alcon 6Paddle with the Alcon cover plate and it judders slightly when pulling away but nothing like an AP 4 Paddle does. Its holding up fine at an estimated 180bhp tho.
30-04-2013, 09:13 AM
#34
They are much cheaper and give a lighter pedal than an AP/Helix Organic so I can see why some opt for it, I personally wouldn't as the three and four puck ones judder like mad when pulling away, they also don't last anywhere near as long as a full clutch, six puck I imagine are not too bad.
30-04-2013, 08:50 PM
#35
Regular Contributor
http://www.larkspeed.com/index.pl?a=...e-3-Clutch-Kit
I've got one of these, I've had no problems with it and I'm running about 200bhp and the pedal feels lovely with no harshness and good in traffic
I've got one of these, I've had no problems with it and I'm running about 200bhp and the pedal feels lovely with no harshness and good in traffic
05-05-2013, 08:03 PM
#38
Well just finished fitting my new AP clutch. OMFG, what a difference, half the travel on the pedal, feels almost lighter than a std clutch and has a smooth bite.
So word of advice to anyone who needs a better than std clutch. DO NOT BUY A HELIX!
So word of advice to anyone who needs a better than std clutch. DO NOT BUY A HELIX!