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S2 RST with Cosworth front brake issue

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Old 02-01-2013, 03:21 PM
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Stu_K
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Default S2 RST with Cosworth front brake issue

My S2 has the Sierra Cosworth front brake conversion, but the pedal feels spongy and vague. The previous owner said he had it professionally done and bled but it doesn't feel right to me.

I drive my 1970's vw beetle, get in the RST and think S**T! the 1st time I brake.
It needs a proper good shove and seems to travel too far for my liking.

The previous owner stated this is normal and better than the standard brakes..... I shudder to think what standard RST brakes are like!

It still has the ABS unit attached althought the belts have been removed. Would this make them be so vague?

I'd expect damn good brakes with minimal effort with them being bigger. Am I expecting too much?
Old 02-01-2013, 03:31 PM
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s2erst
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Sounds like they need bleeding mate as it seems you have air in the pipes
Old 02-01-2013, 03:35 PM
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simontrayler
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Hi mate,

Firstly, no!! Your not expecting too much! I have the same brakes on mine and it stops very well now after a refurb on the calipers, new discs etc.
It just sounds like the person you bought it off either knew nothing about the car, or, didn't want to pay to have it fixed...

My guess would be the Master Cylinder is knackered. Not the end of the world, just call a few reputable breakers (Speedshack, Dave Sims etc) and you'll get a nice functioning unit sent out and you'll stop on a dime!

That's my guess anyway, if the brakes have been blead properly!! (FYI - starting at the furthest wheel away from the cylinder and working inwards, with the rear wheels on the floor if you have thr rear compensators still fitted). If he did the bleed, get it done again before buying parts
Old 02-01-2013, 04:16 PM
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Rob_DOHC
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Having the abs unit still attached won't be helping things. Really you should properly bypass and remove the units.

Mine was difficult to bleed, several people have used a vac pump to properly bleed the brakes, in the end i pressure bled mine. The brakes should be perfectly acceptable so yours don't sound right.

Rob,
Old 02-01-2013, 04:17 PM
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Twins
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master cylinder or servo problem
Old 02-01-2013, 05:03 PM
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RSmark84
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As above, per my reply on the RSOC forum
Old 02-01-2013, 06:11 PM
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studabear
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what rear brakes does it have, are they correctly adjusted?
Old 02-01-2013, 06:34 PM
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BEEFRS
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i had crap brakes and turned out to be the rear cylinders were seeping fluid(presuming you have rear drum brakes) try the usual first like bleeding and checking for leaks if that don't help change the master cylinder as that is most likely the fault

Last edited by BEEFRS; 02-01-2013 at 06:35 PM.
Old 02-01-2013, 07:40 PM
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Stu_K
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A few things start to make sense now, I assumed an old ford would be iffy as I'm more used to early 90's hondas. The previous owner said a few things that have proven to be blatant bullsh!t. I'm slowly working through it and getting rid of all the bodges.

The brakes do feel like there is no servo assistance. You need quite a bit of effort in the leg department and the brakes start working effectivly about halfway down. They do stop the car ok, but the effort needed and the lack of feel isn't right.
Also feels like a motorcycle I had where the calipers were changed for bigger ones and it put the master cylinder ratio out.

Handbrake is adjusted, rear drum brakes and holds on 3rd click, no leaks, etc.

BUT there is a strip of paint directly under the mastercylinder on the servo that has been stripped to the metal. Blatant contact with fluid in the past??

You can see it in this pic
Old 02-01-2013, 07:53 PM
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You'll always get numpties that feel the need to lie about cars their selling... God knows why, just look after your car and do the fixs right as and when their needed!

Sounds like your getting on top of things though! Good stuff buddy

I'd say that master cylinder has been leaking and is prob gonna be the cause... It's likely letting air in there. Get a new one on and get the brakes bleed properly and you'll notice a big difference!
Just out of interest... You got a pic of the front disc and caliper setup you can pop up for us? Not the first time someone's sold a car and said its had mods its not... Hopefully he's not feed a line there too and they are cossie jobs
Old 02-01-2013, 08:18 PM
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I know what you mean, all my cars are meticulously cared for and repaired when needed, and I'm honest when I sell them on.

I haven't a pic of the brakes but theres a receipt in the history from when they were originally put on. So should be ok. They look bigger behind the standard wheels.
I've badly edited a photo from the for sale ad to hide anything identifiable. I dont want a slanging match with the previous owner. Sold as seen and I have the time and skill to put it all right. The wheels were 17's I think.
It doesnt look like this now.

There is no leaks now, and I just found a receipt for front flexi hoses. The bleed valves on the calipers look a bit scabby so the question is, were they bled after the hose change or did he think sod it? I would have thought there'd be no pedal pressure at all if that was the case.

1st things first, a proper bleed.
may invest in a vacuum or easy bleed kit. The wife usually helps but we have a baby now.

Only pic that shows the front brakes
Old 02-01-2013, 08:30 PM
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ZVH,RST
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Originally Posted by Stu_K
A few things start to make sense now, I assumed an old ford would be iffy as I'm more used to early 90's hondas. The previous owner said a few things that have proven to be blatant bullsh!t. I'm slowly working through it and getting rid of all the bodges.

The brakes do feel like there is no servo assistance. You need quite a bit of effort in the leg department and the brakes start working effectivly about halfway down. They do stop the car ok, but the effort needed and the lack of feel isn't right.
Also feels like a motorcycle I had where the calipers were changed for bigger ones and it put the master cylinder ratio out.

Handbrake is adjusted, rear drum brakes and holds on 3rd click, no leaks, etc.

BUT there is a strip of paint directly under the mastercylinder on the servo that has been stripped to the metal. Blatant contact with fluid in the past??

You can see it in this pic
how come you have no vin plates on your car,did you check the floor number when you were buying it,
Old 02-01-2013, 08:31 PM
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simontrayler
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It's the only way to own a classic RS like these... You leave things to long and bodge them etc, when it comes to a genuine owner buying it and starting to put things right, it can cost a fortune, or it's just a quick road to a scrappy! Can't all be like us though hey!
Yeah sounds like you'll be okay on the brakes then... If you've got a receipt you'd hope do anyway
Yeah best of editing it, what's done is done now and it sounds like your getting on top of it now!
Mate you never know what some people will do!! He may have bleed them or just whacked them on, I've seen lots of silly things. As you say, bleed them first and go from there! Pop a picture up of the motor as it is now, be nice to see how it's coming along.
Old 02-01-2013, 08:38 PM
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looks like its been leaking from seeing the pic mate..have you checked the brake lines? i actually think the servo could be faulty ..does it loose fluid?what brakes are they as hi spec brakes are crap when cold
Old 02-01-2013, 09:17 PM
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kidsRS
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off topic but love the tsw evos mate
Old 02-01-2013, 09:20 PM
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Thanks for the help chaps.

Not on TSW's now I left them with the old owner, on standard wheels for the minute.

Pics will follow when I think its respectable.
Old 02-01-2013, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ZVH,RST
how come you have no vin plates on your car,did you check the floor number when you were buying it,
Yeah its all cool. The Vin plate is in the history folder, the front panel was replaced due to rot at some point, and I want to repaint it to a higher standard. The Vin plate is tatty so will look into getting a new one.

I thought the same when I went to view it!
Old 03-01-2013, 04:09 AM
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I'd bin the abs for a start, even if the belts are removed!
Check rear cylinders for leaks, replace the flexi's and re bleed.
The flexi's tend to collapse inside when old causing a massive pedal effort just to push a small amount of fluid through.
Pm me if you need help with removing the abs!
Old 03-01-2013, 04:13 PM
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RSmark84
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So you got the VIN plate what about the other VIN/colour plate is that there too?

Should be 2 on the front panel, also your'e missing a bonnet bump stop.
Old 04-01-2013, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by RSmark84
So you got the VIN plate what about the other VIN/colour plate is that there too?

Should be 2 on the front panel, also your'e missing a bonnet bump stop.
Colour plate is missing, bonnet bump stop has been replaced....... along with the bonnet, added OE spotlamps, fan switch, fan rewired, new radiator, thermostat, 3 additional guages, flamer kit removed, passenger window fixed, inner sills welded in properly (were tack welded and then used mastic to hold them in!), front panel welded in properly, K&N cleaned 4 times!, gear linkage changed for a puma one.

Jobs to still do is boot flor welding, rear arches, underseal, waxoil, stonechip arches and sort brakes.

Very much a work in progress!
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