Knocking rst engine.
Hi all, first post from new member.
I recently bought a project rs turbo van from eBay, some of you may have seen it. Mk4 in silver.
It's mot'd & tax'd but comes with a rattly bottom end although is still running and quiet on idle with no smoke.
I stripped the sump off it yesterday and the con rod shells are buggered.
Now I know it's going to need the crank reground etc but for now, as it's still tax'd I'm hoping to replace the shells and see if that works.
Here's my question. Should I replace both sets of shells or just the worn set and where do you buy a set of shells from?
Thanks Millsy
I recently bought a project rs turbo van from eBay, some of you may have seen it. Mk4 in silver.
It's mot'd & tax'd but comes with a rattly bottom end although is still running and quiet on idle with no smoke.
I stripped the sump off it yesterday and the con rod shells are buggered.
Now I know it's going to need the crank reground etc but for now, as it's still tax'd I'm hoping to replace the shells and see if that works.
Here's my question. Should I replace both sets of shells or just the worn set and where do you buy a set of shells from?
Thanks Millsy
If the crank is scored or out of tolerance there is no point changing shells, they will be destroyed in no time mate.
Get the crank out, meassured, ground or polished as needed and then the correct size shells.... Do it once, do it properly!
Get the crank out, meassured, ground or polished as needed and then the correct size shells.... Do it once, do it properly!
Hi mate, thanks for the reply. I know what you mean, do it once and do it properly but ive got a fiesta turbo engine coming from a friend but i was just thinking for the minute, while its taxd, it would save me removing the engine.
The shells are only about Ł15 and will only take an hour or so to fit.
The trouble is, the crank does have a slight score feel to it so was just wondering how long it will take to ruin them again......
I suppose im just being impatient as ive just bought it and cant drive it lol....
Millsy
The shells are only about Ł15 and will only take an hour or so to fit.
The trouble is, the crank does have a slight score feel to it so was just wondering how long it will take to ruin them again......
I suppose im just being impatient as ive just bought it and cant drive it lol....
Millsy
2 weeks, bugger.......
Well i ordered some cheap shells today and checked the rest of the sheels and they all seem fine, as does the crank.
Its seems to be worse/only number 1 conrod (nearest cambelt?) that has the knackered shells.
Im hoping to collect them monday and if i have time will have it done mon or tues so ill let you know how it goes.
If it all goes t@ts up, whats needed to confert a fiesta turbo engine to go into my series2 engine converted van?
Is it all plug and play or do i need to get some stuff?
Cheers Millsy
Well i ordered some cheap shells today and checked the rest of the sheels and they all seem fine, as does the crank.
Its seems to be worse/only number 1 conrod (nearest cambelt?) that has the knackered shells.
Im hoping to collect them monday and if i have time will have it done mon or tues so ill let you know how it goes.
If it all goes t@ts up, whats needed to confert a fiesta turbo engine to go into my series2 engine converted van?
Is it all plug and play or do i need to get some stuff?
Cheers Millsy
its a straight fit isnt it. id make the most of having the efi pickup and gather the appropiate loom/ecu ect while your at it. also use a erst t3 opposed to the fezza's t2.
Yeah fiesta lump will go straight in but the EFI head will not mate to your inlet manifold and you'll need to remove the core plug from the dizzy end to fit the dizzy.
Going EFI is always a good call as above, but I wouldnt recommend the 20 year old OFAC/B stuff as IME there is always broken wires, sensors and it just becomes a big head ache trying to fault find... I'd go standalone, there's some really good bang for buck systems available these days!
Going EFI is always a good call as above, but I wouldnt recommend the 20 year old OFAC/B stuff as IME there is always broken wires, sensors and it just becomes a big head ache trying to fault find... I'd go standalone, there's some really good bang for buck systems available these days!
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