kermitt

Seeing as I am off work cos of the bad weather I think I may as well fit my gauges.

I have boost, oil temp and pressure to fit in one of Nomad's 3 gauge holders that sits in the centre vents.

Just wondering how to wire it up so that they light up with the ignition on.

I understand I can use the grey/yellow wire from the radio to do this but is it a case of cutting this wire and fitting into a wiring block to then run wires to each gauge?

Also where is best to connect the earth and positive wires as I don't have a multimeter?

zetec-Sam

iTrader: (2)

I scotchlock'd into the radio wiring for my gauges. Colour, I couldn't say for sure, depends on car, not got a mate with a multimeter? If not, I'd get one, can get one for less than a tenner, and they're a valuble item!

kermitt

Am a div when it comes to electric, whats a scotchlock?

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

IMO a pants way of connecting wires together, will be ok for your application but wouldnt use them for anything important.

luke19790_3

don't use them, use solder if you need to join new wiring to existing wires.

xrmalin

I used the wireing for the heater panel lights for lighting up my gauges then they come on when your headlights are on. Then used the stereo wireings switched live for the power so they go on and off with the ignition

mark.

studabear

sorry to jump in the thread but speaking of heater panel lights should the fan speed and air direction parts illuminate, I really cannot remember, just the temp is lighting up on mine

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Yes should all light up Stu.
You been down to Jano's yet mate, hows the car?

studabear

Cheers karlos, I will replace the bulbs

Yeah cars been to jano's went on monday got there at 8:15pm, jano came and locked my motor in his workshop, transported us to the hotel we were staying in, then sorted the car in the morning, cars running really well, can't thank jano enough, top service.

Just gotta turn the boost up a bit in april, the rd conditions wasn't too good in romford on tuesday so test drives wasn't easy Plus Jano had me hangin on like a scared little girl

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Oh sweet, did you fit a new ECU in the end?

studabear

no, 1 of them is fubared the one I got off someone on here, the 1 I got through janos site is fine,it was a fueling issue

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Ah well at least no more headaches!
So what boost are you running now then, and whats your spec?

studabear

kiss of death, it wouldn't start this morning till I warmed ecu up

standard engine, stage 2 T3, exhaust, cossie 4x4 blues, front mount, bailey breather, nothing major

Only boosting at 0.8bar will be turned up to 1.2bar in april

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

No way?! lol
Warming up the ECU points to a problem with conductivity of one or some of the components as the warmer something is the better it conducts and vice versa, could be a dry solder joint or a faulty component IMO, either way a different ECU should sort it out
As I mentioned before this is the trouble with 20 year old ECU's, looms and components, even if you buy a 'good' one it could fail any time
I'm sure Jano will be happy to send you another one in exchange though!

So around 155bhp now and around 200bhp in April, nice nippy motor!

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

If you wire to the ignition for the lighting they will be on permantly, a common thing to do with the lighting is to splice into the clock wiring as this has a lighting feed. This leaves you needing two lives for the oil temp and pressure, each of these use the applicable senders for the earth connection.

You can use any good earthing point for the bulbs.

The feed you can do as you say and splice into the switched radio feed it is probably yellow on your car and red is the permanent live where as on modern cars it's the complete opposite of this or another option is to take the feed from the clock as well.

Martin

studabear

I didn't get my ecu's off jano, what you say about the coductivity/dry joint sounds exactly what my mate says.

Every sensor on my set up is new, the loom has been checked over. I have 2 ecu's giving similar issues if not the same, I'm gonna do some more investigation, the ecu is currently in my house at a decent room temp, I'm gonna take it out and try it on the cold car in the morning, I'm pretty sure the car will start up fine though.

It is something I could live with but I would much rather get to the bottom of the problem
(car is normally only used april to end of sept) so the cold spells shouldn't effect it.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Oh thats a shame, so it's just another 'good' one off someone
I'm sure Jano will have plenty kicking around and at least if you buy one from him he will guarantee it for a while I'm sure, just a shame as you will have lost your money on the other two.
It's all it can be really, nothing in the ECU is temperature dependant lol
You could live with it but how long before it fails completely?

Ball ache mate! lol

studabear

Well I've just tried the ecu/car after having the ecu in the house overnight.

Car started first turn of the key and idled perfectly

Let it idle for a minute or two, then when revved it revved nice and smooth with no mis fire's

So looks like the solution will be to keep the ecu indoors

I'm just gonna live with it, as I've got my balls in this car