boost
hi my car is running just under 1.0 bar boost which is 14.7 psi i believe so about 14 psi. I have a pace intercooler, chipped ecu, -31 collins acuator mongoose exhaust, bailey dump valve and persume all internals are standard coz no recipts to say otherwise. I just had a new gearbox and clutch fitted but do u think i am ok running this boost thanks
i got an escort rst btw. Erm i brought the car and it didnt have a pipe coming off the acuator to the vacum and was running max which was 1.5 bar on my gauge so thats y i had a new box n clutch coz it ruind the box. So wen they did the box i told them to turn the boost to 12psi but they said they added the pipe so it would be running standard but it goes up to 1.0 bar which is 14 psi
i got an escort rst btw. Erm i brought the car and it didnt have a pipe coming off the acuator to the vacum and was running max which was 1.5 bar on my gauge so thats y i had a new box n clutch coz it ruind the box. So wen they did the box i told them to turn the boost to 12psi but they said they added the pipe so it would be running standard but it goes up to 1.0 bar which is 14 psi
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mines running:
Standard bottom end
stage 2 NMS head
Custom NMS chip
-31 actuator on standard turbo
Stainless 'zorst
Standard icooler
IB5 gearbox with LSD
B+M Quickshift
No Dumpvalve
My boost is 1BAR, approx 14.5psi. Ollie at NMS set it at that via a bleed valve, but told me not to hold it on boost in 4th and 5th for long blasts cos i will melt something, BUT for short blasts its fine, and its lovely to drive, nice and tame in traffic, but pokey enough to annoy most bmw diesel drivers
Standard bottom end
stage 2 NMS head
Custom NMS chip
-31 actuator on standard turbo
Stainless 'zorst
Standard icooler
IB5 gearbox with LSD
B+M Quickshift
No Dumpvalve
My boost is 1BAR, approx 14.5psi. Ollie at NMS set it at that via a bleed valve, but told me not to hold it on boost in 4th and 5th for long blasts cos i will melt something, BUT for short blasts its fine, and its lovely to drive, nice and tame in traffic, but pokey enough to annoy most bmw diesel drivers
Its Danny not Jano.
Common sense really pal.
A rolling road has no drag, friction, air flow, weather conditions etc etc etc.. That you have on a real road.
Any decent RR tuner would test what they have done on the REAL ROAD after. Making sure what they have done is relevant to what actually happens when driving.
The basics is this, a RR saves alot of time for the tuner. This is because the tuner does not need to keep going backwards and forwards to the workshop to edit the map write a new chip etc get back in car and test again.
The next thing is you get a graph of the power you have gained lost whatever..
If the RR operator wants to show higher or lower power than what is actually available this is easy to do. So are you the customer getting a true figure?
My advise would be go to a decent Tuner like Jano, Ahmed, Stu@Msd, NMS etc who will map the cars on the real road in real conditions.
Then if you wish to have a power run done to see what power you have, then do so at a low cost of around £40-50 on most Rolling Roads.
If thats how the best have been doing it for this many years surely that give you an idea to why....
much love Daniel.
Common sense really pal.
A rolling road has no drag, friction, air flow, weather conditions etc etc etc.. That you have on a real road.
Any decent RR tuner would test what they have done on the REAL ROAD after. Making sure what they have done is relevant to what actually happens when driving.
The basics is this, a RR saves alot of time for the tuner. This is because the tuner does not need to keep going backwards and forwards to the workshop to edit the map write a new chip etc get back in car and test again.
The next thing is you get a graph of the power you have gained lost whatever..
If the RR operator wants to show higher or lower power than what is actually available this is easy to do. So are you the customer getting a true figure?
My advise would be go to a decent Tuner like Jano, Ahmed, Stu@Msd, NMS etc who will map the cars on the real road in real conditions.
Then if you wish to have a power run done to see what power you have, then do so at a low cost of around £40-50 on most Rolling Roads.
If thats how the best have been doing it for this many years surely that give you an idea to why....
much love Daniel.
I agree with Danny. Got mine done on the rollers at sanspeed in bexley heath, kent & he to took the car out on to the REAL ROADS twice to check the tweeks he made on the rollers worked on the road aswell.
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