Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Ignore the above i have found one

Were you generally happy with yours Karlos? didn't cause any clearance issues? and did you just use two inlet manifold gaskets, one on either side of the plate?

Rob,

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Thats very dangerous mate, you should really fit some bigger ones or turn down your boost.
I have everything ready to build up but I will not be doing anything until it gets a bit warmer! My garage is not heated or insulated at all!!

Yeah i'm happy with mine, no clearance issues at all and yes you use two inlet gaskets... one EFI, one MFI!

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

i also use a spacer plate and no issues to mention, gaskets as above too.

project rs

karlos i was looking at your fuel map you posted last time and my own and from idle till around time boost starts to come really in yours is a lot richer than mine and the only big difference is the cam you use as i'm still on standard but on boost we're verry similar but i'm fuelling for a t34 so would of expected yours to be a little lower than mine just wondered what you were using to monitor you afr and have you had a chance yet to have a look at how you wired up your apexi for the speed to work and the setting you used in controller incase it's just got the wrong setting in it

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

That map was only a very very early one as my clutch started slipping and then the dreaded valve seat dropped so never got any further...
My engine was low comp (7.5:1) with 1.5mm oversize pistons is that what yours is? Also my NMS head has been heavily worked so this will also make a big difference to the engines VE too.

I'm using a Techedge 2J1 Wideband lamda to monitor AFR's, and something else to remember is that the Fuel table values will depend on your timing and what your 'Req Fuel' setting is so very hard to compare maps in this way.

Sorry not looked at my apexi wiring, have not been any where near the car since November and wont be until it bloody warms up!! lol
I think the setting I used was x8 but that is literally off the top of my head, you should get a reading if the wiring is correct no matter what setting you use but it would just read wrong thats all.
IIRC The 3 wires are.... one ignition live, one earth, and the one left is the signal wire which is what you want to use

project rs

maybe i'll put it on axle stands and play around till i get something as i'm going to need it with this turbo no grip now let alone when i double it

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Haynes wiring diagrams say they that the Black/Yellow is live, the Brown is earth, and the Brown/White is the signal wire.
Yeah they are a great boost controller, being able to limit the boost in 1st and 2nd is great for helping you keep traction!

What is your full spec mate?

Rick

Richie, yours is configured to multiply by the AFR for the fuelling equation - most aren't as it's a pretty new feature in the code, that's why it will look leaner. It's not, it just gives a true representation of the engines VE.

Rick.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Rick what AFR's do you aim for from when the car breaches 100kpa and progresses up to peak boost?
I've been aiming for around 12.0:1 to 11.8:1, and around 14.0:1 on cruise.

project rs

forged bottom end with steel rods
ported head with standard valves
custom inlet with vxr injectors
tubular exhaust manifold
t34.48
3 inch downpipe to petrol tank then drops to 2.5
megasquirt ecu
i'm also running a hydroilc clutch thats externally mounted so no need to remove box simple bolt on job

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Are you standard size pistons and CR?
I've done the hdyraulic clutch conversion too, also just a bolt on jobbie, nice easy conversion!
You see the info above about speed sensor wiring?

Rick

13:1.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Progressing to what for full load WOT, 11.8:1? What about Cruise, Karl Norris told me 14.0:1 as the CVH benifits from being a bit rich to keep temps down?
Interested in your experiences mate to make sure i'm doing things right!

Cheers!

project rs

i did see the info on speed sensor wiring cheers and on a +1mm overbore with cosworth racing pistons and can't remember c.r but could re work it out if you need it but it's not far off standard i think

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Sweet, hopefully that will work with your Apexi!
Regards CR, just wondered how close our spec's were thats all!
How does it drive with that T34 (Ex/Cmp?), when do you make peek boost?

project rs

it drives fine don't notice any difference between this and the standard t3 it was on before it's a standard t34 on the .48 housing and not noticed yet at what revs it makes boost at as no rev guage in front of me and don't fancy looking down at boost controller to see but is around 3500 ish but wiil on next mapping session have a look for you(well passenger can)

Rick

I'll be datalogging eveything so we'll have all the info. It'll start to make boost at around 2700, with around half a bar at 3000, 2 bar by 3600.

Rick.

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Thats not bad at all really for a T34!! I would of thought around 4000rpm, but almost 30psi by 3600rpm is really good, and is going to be fast as fuck!!! I mean com'on 30psi.... thats crazy!!! lol
Whats the difference between a Stage 3 T3 and a T34, S3T3 is .48/55, whats the T34 .48/??

Post the data log up for us please Rick or email it to me, will be really interested to see it!!

project rs

it's bad enough now with just a bar pulls you all over the road and with the 2 bar it'll be a right hand full thats why i want to get the in gear boost sorted or 1st/2nd will just end up as a pile of smoke if i try to pull off to aggresively, i was relly surprised at how quick it makes it's boost but maybe the tubular is helping and if it is then it was Ł250 well spent

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Fuck knows?! I didnt think the stock manifold was restrictive, IIRC Christian said there was barely any gains when he switched over, but I supose every little helps when your aiming for big BHP, good mapping plays a big part I think too!

project rs

the mapping plays a big part and at moment mines only been mapped to sefe levels still no ignition in it and fuel is still to be tweeked so things should only get better as we've only been running it in really only on 800 miles now but is by far the best cvh i've driven and starting to catch crazy's zetec for fun, the manifold gets really restrictive at 300hp but thats only if you look at total hp but it doesn't mean that if you can improve gas speeds and help engine to breath better you can have a more responsive engine same as cams and head work can make a car more responsive but the hp of that engine may still be very similar or the way efi cars drive better even at same power levels as you are improving the engine thats why i went for the manifold even though the peak hp would be the same as standard manifold but i believe it's giving me better mid range and helping it spool quicker

Red_bull

guys what lag factors are you running? Has MS a big variation on it's readings? like rpm how often does a false reading occur?

So for MAP, RPM, TPS, lambda, CLT/IAT/battery and knock, but as far as i know i don't have a knocksensor on my engine, so won't need that.

I also have a wb kit from innovate, can i run 100 on lambda or will it get me into trouble?

Red_bull

Upppie

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

lag factors?
I get no false readings, and they are consistent mate.
100 (14.7) lambda is too lean, 11.8 for full load, 14.0 for cruise/idle.

Red_bull

I mean this part of megatune



Input Smoothing Factors Input Smoothing Lag Factors Lag factors force the variables to change more slowly than the actual input value. Note that in all cases, 100 is no lag effect at all, and smaller numbers slow the input response speed. The lag factors are used as follows:

• MAP Averaging Lag Factor
• RPM Averaging Lag factor
• TPS Averaging Lag Factor
• Lambda Averaging Lag Factor
• CLT/IAT/Battery Averaging Lag Factor
• Knock Averaging Lag Factor

I think it's ok to start with 100% and see if it works right? There's nothing good about smooting input when it's not needed, because readings of input signals are fine

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

I have never seen that before, so assume mine is default with no smoothing.

Red_bull

i don't know how that comes, but i have downloaded megatune a couple of days ago and these options are there... Maybe there is a new megatune version?

Does anyone else reconise these settings?

Rick

Default settings are 50%. I'd recommend having the voltage down to around 30% as this is where there are small spikes from the alternator which can trigger unwanted voltage corrections at small pulse widths.

Rick

Red_bull

Ok thanks mate! Going to try that then!

Red_bull

the ICV is controlled by PWM right? I haven't got the inlet @ home, but i'm already soldering my MS, so wanted to check this. I'm almost sure it's PWM, can somebody confirm it?

Cheers!

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Yes it is, although none of us built our own MS as far as I know!

Red_bull

I thought everyone did, but later on when i asked about the ignition outputs i realised that most of you didn't! I'm building one at the moment and till now it's going quite good. Now i'm sorting out how to fix the two outputs for direct control of my coil pack.

I asked the question because i can pick a IAC output, because they can carry enough current for normal use. So now i'm sure i can carry on!

It's a nice puzzle but thanks for letting me know!

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Yeah I think we all buy ours built............ at least I do!! lol

From Phil @ www.extraefi.co.uk

Red_bull

It's quite fun to build you're own. Atleast i say it now, because if my ecu fails i'm going to be pissed haha.

No I just wanted to learn it better so I can make adjustments in the future. Also i'm maybe going to build more of them for other cars and then it's nice that you can adapt your ECU on the cars possiblity's.

Rob_DOHC

iTrader: (4)

Was going to build mine, spend most of my life soldering gear up lol but i just didn't have the time, plus its hard to get a reasonably priced kit in the UK, and with the ready made surface mount V3.57 board most companies charge nearly the same to supply a full kit as they do a built board Am looking into becoming an MS dealer but have to buy large quantities of stock, so this will not be until after summer (again when i have more time and money...... when the escorts finished lol).

Make sure you buy a mega stim before you get too involved in fitting it to the car.

Rob,

Rick

I built mine back in 06.

You need to use a TIP121/122 transistor to drive the PWM valve. The std item is only designed to switch a relay for on/off control.

Rick.

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

can anyone share any info on ignition timing as mine is costing a bomb to run.
basically on a 1.8zvh with MS2v3.0 extra code 2.1.1.
loads of power and no det a all all the way up to 21psi (only on 2.5BAR map sensor), on a long cruise i'm only getting about 20mpg, round town i barely enter double figures.
i will post my msq up and see if anyone has any ideas apart from more timing to give more power at lower fuel levels.

cheers
sean

Karlos G

iTrader: (4)

Yeah stick up your Spark and Fuel tables Sean or email me your map, lets have a peek!
As you say your either rich or retarded so to speak! lol
Did you calibrate your WBO2, and which one are you running?

Rick

Try 4 squirts alternating and see if it sends it rich.

xr2wishy

iTrader: (2)

i'll try the 4 squits later when i get home after ....shopping with the misses lol!
i'm using a vems wideband on 0-5v scale, seems to be alright and i got 40mpg on cruise with my carb turbo setup using it to tune that.
i checked idle timing with a timing gun and that's spot on too, no detting, but running healthy amounts of advance, IIRC 18 degrees on full boost.

also as the vems is standalone and has an output to the ecu the gauge on the controller reads the same as the signal to ecu, maybe 0.1 out on afr at worst. can't get innovate LC-1 working with laptop so can't confirm accuracy.