i have a few questions
1) what psi should a standerd s2 run?
2) how much of an increase is safe on a standard (or near standerd) engine?
3) is there any safe way to set up a new -31 actuator without a gauge or is this just stupid,

i have many plans but at the moment i just want it running right, i think a decent rolling road setup is needed as well

thanks in advance

 

answer to question number 1 is... 7 or 8 psi (half a bar)

as i am aware a standard rs turbo shouldnt realy run more than 12 - 14 psi

im not sure about question 3 tho as ive not done it myself yet

PS i realy hope im right

 

a standard engine in good health will take 16-18 psi

 

shit

 

get a pro to set it up for peace of mind

 

as above

 

yeah you are right in a way mate, a std rs turbo ecu wont boost above 10psi unless it is chipped, the boost limiter will be hit anything above 10psi and the revs will drop to zero.. if u want to run 14psi u will need the ecu chipped,,
unless u run a bleed valve but i advise u NOT to do this as mixture and fuelling will fuck up along with you engine..

 

there is absolutely nothing wrong with using a bleed valve!!!!!
as long as they are set up PROPERLY and then left alone!!
it's dickheads that can't resist playing with them that give's them a bad name

 

thanks for the advise

 

Agreed.. Bleed Valves are the cheap way to increase boost however they do not adjust the fueling as well which can make the engine run lean and detonate.
A properly setup car has no need for a bleed valve

 

i think stage 1 possibly 2 doesn't require a bleed valve but as far as i'm aware much more than 1 bar don't u have to have a bleed valve??

 

again you have posted this dribble,a bleed valve does not blows engines up,if raising the boost pressure by means of bleed valve or actuator will need the fuelling adjusted to suit extra boost,once air and fuel mixture is set up,a bleed valve will not give you any probs or blow your engine up,messing with it will just as messin with the actuator,so actuators must blow engines too,it will not detonate or fool ecu like you said in last post as the ecu takes its boost reading from the inlet,not the actuator/amal valve or any other place in the inlet
so how would you set your car up to run more boost on say std mfi management?wind the actuator right in to get desired boost

 

so if u fit a bleed valve would u need to have a chip fitted if u havent allready?

 

if ive been reading this correct the answer is no, as the bleed valve bypasses the ecu settings for boost, am i right? so the only thing needed to sensibly run a bleed valve is to adjust the fueling screw on the throttle body, yeh?

 

No chip will be required, as said above the ecu takes the pressure from the manifold. So in theory what ever boost you dial in the ecu will try to fuel for it.

The only problem I can see with the sandard chip is has the fueling/ignition maps been set up to be able to handle any higher boost then normal.

 

PISH

I have had a bleed valve on my car for nearly 5 years now and its still going strong, mine is "properly" set up twice a year

 

no your wrong, a bleed valve does not bypass settings for the ecu,the ecu takes its reading from the inlet manifold,therefore if your running over 10psi whether bleeding it or actuator wound in its still gonna read over 10psi at the inlet,so if your wanna run more than 10psi of boost without hittin the boost limiter then you will need a chip

 

ok cherz

 

Ok I admit that I am totally incorrect and wrong for believing that bleed valves are a bad idea, expecially considering that most of them allow tampering with the boost setting by design.
I afraid to say that Fiesta Turbo are wong in this article, when they make the statement.
As this statement is obviously incorrect and that there is no place for concern what so ever when using these devices.
To be honest Im just gutted that when I was getting my engine rebuilt after buying my car a few years back that I was advised by three reknown tuners two of which are represented on this forum to remove the dump valve and bleed valve on my MFI car.

Obviously the vast number of high powered RS-Turbo' using bleed valves and the wide number of tuners fitting them today indicates that they are nothing but a good thing.

 

Im not sure on the RST as I've only had it a few weeks but my last car (Fiat coupe 20vt) and my other car (lancia delta integrale) both use EBV's.

These are preset to around 0.6 bar and using a solonoid open to boost to 1 bar when certian conditions are met (revs, foot to the floor etc). When the engine goes into limp home mode or detects any knocking the ebv will close only allowing you 0.6 bar. If you remove this and fit a bleed valve the ecu has no way of reducing the boost should a engine problem occur.

 

cheeRS

 

well i'm in the same situation bud through other probs with car i can't get it set up til next year coz i bought a collins actuator which only hold 5psi so i put on a bleed valve with my chipped ecu and zorst, filter i'm running 9psi about that and feels lots better but i'm getting a new actuator put on next year and full set up so i may run more don't know but in these things get it set up fully by professional i only done it as i'm a mechanic, and got basic ideas of how to push it with it not being fully set up

 

Just get it set up properly by someone who knows what they're doing.
Jamie at Jamsport is one of the best.

 

so in theory, lets say you just brought a new actuator, you could set it up yourself, if the car runs slow, you havent wound the boost up enough and if the boost limit comes in its to high, as it said further up, the max for a standerd ecu is 10psi, and a standerd rs is ok to run 12psi safly, so 10psi should be fine, is this a way of setting up your acuator?

 

seriously mate,take it to a tuner and get it done properly!! you really dont want to be guessing at it cos it will result in tears

 

mines running 14psi... 205bhp with a missfire lol

 

all i am doing is pointing out that bleed valves bypass the ecu from overboosting, also the std ecu and amal valve work with each other regarding fuel wise, but when bleed valves are there they are to easy to adjust boost!!! without one its set spot on and u cant mess!!! every time u adjust a bleed valve u will need a setup along with it!!!

ok if it was a choice between a amal valve and a bleed valve id deffo go for the amal valve!!!
i aint slaggin em off im just advising!!!

 

davie if i can remember right, when u was on the escortrsturbo website u used to slaughter bleed valves!!

 

the ecu takes its readings from the inlet,not from the amal valve,the amal valven and ecu are no way related or working with each other,if they are show me the output that it gets,the amal valve gets a 12v supply to power it,then its up to the hoses from actuator and compressor,so there we get back to the ecu takes it reading from the inlet,it will make adjustments from that pressure,if you bleed it or run thru amal valve the ecu doesnt care as its gettin the same pressure at inlet(where it takes it reading)and fitting a bleed valve without chip you will still over boost if over 10psi,as its again getting the reading from the inlet and the bleed valve is not fooling it
a bleed valve is usually used where boost mite need tweakin on the rollers and it a hell of a lot easier than adjusting a roasting hot actuator on the rollers which on a rst is not the easiest of jobs

 

Bleed valves are fine IF THERE LEFT ALONE, all it takes is the foolish owner to give it a wee turn then it will end in tears