please help!!!
hi im doin a rst conversion on a mk3 xr3i, ive put it in myself and done the wireing myself im ok with most stuff but now im stuck, the engine cranks over and wont start the fuel pump is behaving normaly, if i crank it ,open the thottle and push the metering flap down it will run albeit not very well and lumpy if i let go of the flap it cuts out i can find any obvious air leaks, im not very clued up on rst,and have searched the forum ,but no joy
also theres a pipe coming out of the side of the metering unit near the boost pipe but not the breather one and wheres the fuel pressure reg vac pipe go to, im having a mare because ive bought all the bits individual and didnt take em off car
any help appreciated
also theres a pipe coming out of the side of the metering unit near the boost pipe but not the breather one and wheres the fuel pressure reg vac pipe go to, im having a mare because ive bought all the bits individual and didnt take em off car
any help appreciated
the pipe is prob the amal valve?? alot of cars have this blocked off with a screw. If it runs holding the flap down then defo an air leak somewhere. If that mine is not blocked or connected that could be your prob.
Yup i'd guess at air leak too!!
Makesure all jubilee clips are tight, all hoses area split/leak free, their are 2 hoses that go to themetering head, the thick one from the breather and the thin one to the amal valve!
remember the oil cap need to be on, no hose can be left off or unblocked!
Makesure all jubilee clips are tight, all hoses area split/leak free, their are 2 hoses that go to themetering head, the thick one from the breather and the thin one to the amal valve!
remember the oil cap need to be on, no hose can be left off or unblocked!
right ive been out at it all weekend its gettin on me tits now
i am new to rst so i dont exactly know what im doing if i turn it over and partly open the throtle and depress the metering paddle down it will run until i let go of the paddle then just cuts out, when i crank it it does bob up and down 6-7mm but there feels no resistance till u push it a little further,
do u have to put air filter on to make it run, ive also checked for air leaks, where does the pressure regulator vac pipe go to can it go to the inlet manifold, also ive not got a amal valve fitted ive been told to block off pipes and stick a pipe from actuator toturbo comp housing is this right
i also dont think its fuel pressure because it does run with it being pushed down, ive come to a dead end now tried everything i can think of any ideas welcome thanks matt
i am new to rst so i dont exactly know what im doing if i turn it over and partly open the throtle and depress the metering paddle down it will run until i let go of the paddle then just cuts out, when i crank it it does bob up and down 6-7mm but there feels no resistance till u push it a little further, do u have to put air filter on to make it run, ive also checked for air leaks, where does the pressure regulator vac pipe go to can it go to the inlet manifold, also ive not got a amal valve fitted ive been told to block off pipes and stick a pipe from actuator toturbo comp housing is this right
i also dont think its fuel pressure because it does run with it being pushed down, ive come to a dead end now tried everything i can think of any ideas welcome thanks matt
For time being, don't connect the vacuum pipe on the pressure regulator to anything.
Disconnect everything you can from the breather system etc and block off all the openings until you get it running to eliminate as many air leaks as u can.
If you are not running an amal valve just take a pipe from the compressor housing to the actuator and make sure the return pipe on the base of the metering head is blocked off.
These are all air leaks if left open.
Disconnect everything you can from the breather system etc and block off all the openings until you get it running to eliminate as many air leaks as u can.
If you are not running an amal valve just take a pipe from the compressor housing to the actuator and make sure the return pipe on the base of the metering head is blocked off.
These are all air leaks if left open.
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got it sorted took metering unit to bits and realised the paddle hight thingy wasnt even touching the metering bit wound mixture screw bout 40 turns till i felt resistance as soon as i touched the paddle first turn of the key it fired up a bit lumpy but it was running on its own, very happy now was starting to piss me off , but at least its ok now for the welding and panels cheers for ya help chaps ta matt
got it sorted took metering unit to bits and realised the paddle hight thingy wasnt even touching the metering bit wound mixture screw bout 40 turns till i felt resistance as soon as i touched the paddle first turn of the key it fired up a bit lumpy but it was running on its own, very happy now was starting to piss me off , but at least its ok now for the welding and panels cheers for ya help chaps ta matt


