barry0777

have got a efi unit here and was wondering what involved its from a hreg 2i
got the following parts

loom
inlet
injectors
flywheel
sensors
and may have afrst ecu
what else do ineed and has anyone got any info diagrams etc of this convertion iv also been told it very easy
will the stander injectors be ok???chears

SafeChav

What car is it going into?
Have you got a complete engine? If so what is it N/A or Turbo?
What car are you transplanting to?

barry0777

iv just got those bits so far and wanting to know how to do the convertion and what else is needed it going into my s2 rsturbo????????

SafeChav

Ok so you are going to be changing your S2, to EFI.

The flywheel.....only need it if you are going to drill your block and put the CPS there, otherwise no use. XR2i injectors are the same as FRST ones, you can use the XR2i loom with Turbo management, will need a couple of wires changes to run OFAB. Or you could put a whole XR3i EFI loom in , which will be the neater option.

The IAT sensor is different for turbo, and thats about it.

barry0777

i was planing to put the xr21 loom in?so will the frst ecu fit on to the xr21 one for the mangment and the s2 flywheel will be ok to?as for the crank sensor how do you sort this out??have you got any diagram on the wiring as you said only a few changes and thats it even the coil pack will fit on two???pls let me know chears barry
is there any web sits??

SafeChav

an XR2i loom, is the same as an OFAC loom, you need to cut 1 wire. To convert it to OFAB, you have to move 2 wires on the ECU plug, and thats it.

The XR2i has a seperate engine loom, its about 10 wires i think to connect it through to the car, BUT the ECU will have to live in the engine bay, which is ok as long as theres not going to be lots of damp in the engine, if your car lives outside you may suffer in wet weather.

You can use a trigger wheel on the crankshaft pulley and mount the CPS there, otherwise u will need to drill your block to take the CPS and then you WILL need an EFI fltwheel.

barry0777

do you have any pictures etc or diagrams of it how long will this take to do and whats a trigger wheel iwant to take that rouht really as it will save me time raver then to take out the engine?any more ideas or contacts?

iam assuming that iwill be running the coil pac to?????
will it run ok to drive as it efi or will it need to be set up on the rollers again????chears for the info top stuff

smitsturbo

what is an IAT sensor cos i would also like to know about this conversion?

scort

www.rsbible.co.uk

Steve

SafeChav

barry0777: the flywheel has marks on the back, 36 targets to be exact, but ONE is missing, when the missing target is founf it tells the ECU the engine is at 90 degrees BTDC, if you dont want to drill your block you can simply fit a 36-1 trigger wheel on the crankshaft pulley and put the sensor there. EFI runs coil packs standard yes. Probably best to get a set up done as there is a CO pot to adjust mixture, aswell as the adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

smitsturbo: IAT = Inlet Air Tempertaure Sensor.

That RSBible guide isnt the best, they got it wrong first time then its ammended and its all vary hard to understand.

scort

Which bit do you think is/was wrong mate?

Steve

SafeChav

Well, from what i remember because its been a while since i looked at it, they start by saying to convert such and such to such and such do this and that, then to convert it back it contradicted itself.

Theres a thread i was posting on i will find it out and it will explain it, it was quite a few months ago. I've looked at an OFAB loom i have and compared it and its very easy to change any wiring to anything.

scort

Well I'm not entirely sure what you mean. It was written ages ago, and not changed since tbh. A few typos but nothing that contradicted itself, perhaps it was read wrong?

Agree with you about the wiring, OFAA, OFAB and OFAC all share very similar wiring. It's only on the web because I got fed up with trying to explain it to people, via many E-Mails.

Steve

SafeChav

Ah did you write it originally then??

barry0777

thank all for the info dose anyone know what pin you have to move on the ecu.and any tips on fitting the cps on the trigger wheels?????

SafeChav

To change an XR2i/XR3i/OFAC loom to OFAB:

you need to move firstly Pin 27 to Pin 8 (CO Pot)
Then move Pin 45 to Pin 27 (MAP Sensor)
You will also need to change the MAP Sensor plug. And it is advised to wire in the condensor in with the MAP Sensor Signal wire.

When changing an XR2i/XR3i loom to either OFAB or OFAC you need to cut the Blue/Yellow wire from Pin 2 of the EDIS4 (runs to Pin 28 on ECU)

barry0777

are ok ill let you know how i get on seam fine,so shall itake out my old loom or only part of it do i remove both the ecus the the s2 had???chears barry

davsmith64

yes u do need to get rid of both ecu's mate as the ofab/ofac all runs through the same ecu.. AND YES u will need to have it set up after as u dont know what the mixture etc is set at so do it the safe way and have it set up..
ok i am currently doing this conversion.. i have all the parts i need also.. these are the following..
FRST HEAD ( can fit ERST but need conversion plate and cap for dizzy hole)
FRST INLET (xr2is the same)
FRST BLUE INJCTORS (will soon be beige)
FRST ENGINE LOOM ( OFAB )
FRST RELAYS (FUEL & INJECTOR)
FRST FLYWHEEL
FRST CPS (crank sensor)
EDIS MODULE
FRST COIL PACK
FRST AIRBOX
HERES A VERY VERY HELPFUL SITE ON THIS CONVERSION ASWEL..
http://www.rsbible.co.uk go in the escort s2 section then into EFI conversion..
BTW u will need to wire the relays up ya self as theres some wires u need to add.. (easy tho)

if u need any diagrams or anything pm me and i'll get back to ya.
enjoy mate..

davsmith64

also if it is a 90spec engine it will already have the hole in for the cps like mine has..

scort

Yes mate, my site. It used to be on another one of my sites a while ago, then I got more hits for this sort of stuff as i did for what the site was inteded. I then purchased the domain rsbible, as a new home.

I have been meaning to make it easier to understand for a while now, who knows maybe I will. The contents not been changed though for coming on a couple of years now.

Steve

SafeChav

Ah ok then. Don't get me wrong it is useful, but i found a few bits a little tricky to understand and i do a lot of wiring on my own cars. With a bit of a tidy up it will be very useful

From what i remember didnt someone correct a couple of errors you made, and it all just got a bit hard to read.

Cosworth wiring conversions next

scort

Afraid not mate, I've had to correct a few people mind!

I've never been into the Cosworth management tbh. Some people seem to get on with it pretty well though, and get good results. I suppose it's easily mapped ect. Certainly in comparison to EEC-IV. That said Moates can allow some mapping of the system.

EEC-IV in my opinion is a great way of gettin EFi on your Escort, plus gives you excellent future provisions for an aftermarket ECU.

Steve

SafeChav

Im only putting EFI on mine because KE Jetronic is the biggest pile of soapy wank ive ever had the displeasure of fitting onto an engine, and ive had enough of it even though now i have got my car running perfectly.

I know nothing about Cossie management, the word on the street now though seems to be that its very old hat, especially with things like Omex and so on getting cheaper.

Omex is onlyup the road from me, but i dont want to shell out that much so OFAB will do me fine Wouldnt want more that 250bhp in a cabby anyway the engine will probably leave the back of the car

scort

LMFAO!

So true!

Good luck with it all mate!

Steve

SafeChav

Thanks all the same but after having KE and fixing it you don't need luck, you're good lol

Should be ok EFI is easy peasy, i can't wait to get rid of them poor exscuses for fuel pump relays aswell Burnt one out in 2000 miles i could smell it burning, i reckon i just caught it before the loom went up

The only thing i don't have is a EFI conversion plate Ł75 HOW MUCH

scort

Indeed, all standard part on EFI too.

I also agree about these adaptor plate things, if you don't mind taking your head off, or it's off, this would seem to be a decent idea. The guy has made a pretty good job of it:

http://www.fiestaturbo.com/forums/vi...c.php?t=127181

Steve

SafeChav

NO FUCKING WAY lol, the engine was fully re-built and has only covered 3.5k and ive already had the head off JUST put it back on. Ive heard of people modding the heads but i was led to believe that you need a bit of ally welding around the injector cut outs. I agree he has done a good job.....im a little concerned the gasket is going to blow out on boost though, not a lot gets sandwiched?

Im reluctant to take my head off A) because ive already had it off once and had to buy a head set and B) because its had porting/polishing work done, i have an EFI head in the shed.....

That said im pulling the engine back out, so i may stuff tissue down the ports and cut the slots out with a dremel. Worth a thought...

barry0777

iknow this sound stupied but some say they have got the cps hole there on there 9o spec so will the fly wheel be ok or will it still have to have a frst one chear for the info ithink i got the idea know???chears

SafeChav

If you are lucky and have the hole i doubt the flywheel will have the targets on it, that would be far too easy

barry0777

DAVSMITH64
yes mate iwound need some diagrams or pics etc pls that would be grate cheras or mail me over some at
babombrs200@hotmail.co.uk cheras

R6Franky

iTrader: (2)

Hi,

Decided to go down the EFI route, I'm cheating though as I've found a fiesta turbo engine in a local scrappy. The only problem is the ECU is missing so i'm not sure what management it was running initially. I've got an OFAB loom and ecu to run it. Is it only the MAP sensor that is different between OFAB and OFAC?? I'm pretty sure everything else is there sensor wise.

One more thing... Is a Cosworth 3 Bar MAP sensor a simple plug and play addition to OFAB management. Sorry for the newby questions that have probably been asked millions of times.

Cheers
Dan

SafeChav

Everything else on the engine is the same sensor wise. Just the ECU and Map sensor that need to be the same.

U can tell by looking at the map sensor already on the car at the scrappy, if its Ford its OFAC, if its Marelli its OFAB. If the management is OFAB then a cossie 3 bar is a simple plug in mod. A set up is always a wise move though

R6Franky

iTrader: (2)

safechav

Cheers mate, just the info I needed.

Dan

barry0777

where can you get the adapter plate from???or is it easyer to get frst head?
#

SafeChav

Ferriday Engineering sell them i believe The plates are about Ł80 i believe, you can pick an EFI head up cheaper, but if you have any head work then the plate is probably more preferable. More chance of blowing a gasket out on the plate method though due to there being an extra gasket.

mathewwebber

Hi all,

I was having a good chat with Safechav about the wiring a while back and I have contacted Scort as well via rstmania. Basically the problem comes down to everyone saying something different about the wiring changes. My issue is also made more difficult by the fact I am not 100% sure what my loom was in the first place, but I assume it was a xr3i loom. I am running OFAC management BTW.

a link to the other conversation:

https://passionford.com/forum/viewto...highlight=ofac

Anyway I eventually managed to squeeze the time in to have a look at the wiring today using the previous conversation as a guide to swapping it about as oppose to the FT guide I did have.

What I have is basically as detailed by Scort on RSBible except I still have my blue/yellow wire (EDIS?) connect to pin 28 on the ECU. Meaning:

27 = CO POT (brown wire)
45 = Map Sensor (brown/yellow)
28 = EDIS Module (blue/yellow)

However I am unable to cold start with my chip on but the car starts and runs fine when the chip is off. It also starts and runs fine with the chip, if a little flat unless it’s very warm, when the engine is warm. The faultfinder also keeps moaning about the Co Pot and this has no affect on the car when its adjusted so I do not believe this is wired in correctly.

I had a chat with Matt Lewis as his company ML Developments originally fitted the engine so he was happy to give advice. He suggested it wasn’t wiring as this would be a problem all the time so was most likely a sensor - particularly the ECT (engine coolant). I have purchased a new one but I am struggling to find a 25mm deep socket to change it over as Halfords stop at 24mm then restart at 27mm

Its not really posed a problem all winter, in fact I have seen it as better as the power has been kept down as a result on the ice roads. However now show season is upon us I want to get it sorted.

Do you all agree the wiring is correct bar the EDIS pin still being there? I also had a good look at the ECU connector and could not get the red connector at the back to come off. Could someone give me a quick lesson on changing/removing pins on the ECU connector - how is it done and will then all fall out? I am assuming the red connector comes off then they are all clipped in again so this does not happen but I want to be sure and know how to get the red connector off

SafeChav

Why don't u use a spanner I'm certain the deep sockets either aren't deep enough or foul the plastic. If they say wiring will cause the fault all the time, which it probably will, but they are basically saying that sensor is irrelevent to a standard car then....which to me, unfortunately, sounds like BOLLUCKS, if that sensor was gone it wouldn't cold start without the chip.......

As for the wiring, yes it is correct i believe, im more familair with it now.

mathewwebber

The deep socket is fine by all accounts but there is not enough room for a spanner. A friend has changed the same sensor before but found it was set to far back for a spanner. i tested it in a 27mm socket and it was fine except it was too big

as for the sensor I was thinking this but what was said did make sense and Matt does know his stuff. His explaination was that the chip contains a different mapping that uses the sensor reading in a different way. It would appear the superchip mapping is much more reliant on the sensor than the norm. Obviously cant be sure its the problem but it would make sense as it gets better the hotter the engine is

SafeChav

I know they are in a right slag of a place but im SURE ive had one out with a spanner (and a lot swearing etc)

Ah well in that case maybe it is the sensor then, we'll soon find out

scort

I would check all your 'Earth' points. Ensure all the other cables are connected to the CO pot correctly. Check the pot too, ensure thats operating correctly.

Could possibly be the chip at fault.

Could be helpfull:

To Check the ECT Immerse sensor probe in coolant of specified temperature, and check resistance between terminals.

0 deg C - 8800-102000 Ohms
20 deg C - 35000-40000 Ohms
40 deg C - 15000-17000 Ohms
60 deg C - 7100-8000 Ohms
80 deg C - 3000-4500 Ohms

Could be worth checking you have the correct ACT sensor also. You should have an alloy reducer on the sensor. If you don't thats the wrong one.

To check the ACT sensor:

Measure the resistance between the multiplug terminals
This is fairly difficult, but these are the temperatures/resistance you need to be checking.
0 deg C, 88000 - 102000 Ohms
20 deg C, 35000 - 40000 Ohms
40 deg C, 15000 - 17000 Ohms
60 deg C, 7100 - 8000 Ohms
80 deg C, 3000 - 4500 Ohms

I've also updated the RSBible website so it's a bit more reader friendly, I will add more links and pictures to it over the next couple of weeks. Hopefully that should clear up any problems.

Steve