escos geometry
#1
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escos geometry
hi all,
i'm going to get a 4 wheel allignment done at the weekend after having new track control arms fitted and new suspension springs.
i was wondering if someone can tell me what the ideal set up is for when i go to get it done?
any help appreciated.
i'm going to get a 4 wheel allignment done at the weekend after having new track control arms fitted and new suspension springs.
i was wondering if someone can tell me what the ideal set up is for when i go to get it done?
any help appreciated.
#4
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Unless you have a Grp A rear beam or "slot" the mounting points, the rear is not adjustable. 1.5° negative camber all round and 0'20s toe-in.
Most places will try and get you to run the toe parrallel, as this is what Ford recommends. However, this doesn't tak into account the bush deflection you get with forward movement, so if you set it to parrallel when the car is static, it will toe-out on the move causing the inside edges of the tyres to wear. If you set to toe-in slightly when it is static, you will get parrallel then when the bushes deflect in forward motion. A bit of toe-in gives the car some stability anyway... .
Most places will try and get you to run the toe parrallel, as this is what Ford recommends. However, this doesn't tak into account the bush deflection you get with forward movement, so if you set it to parrallel when the car is static, it will toe-out on the move causing the inside edges of the tyres to wear. If you set to toe-in slightly when it is static, you will get parrallel then when the bushes deflect in forward motion. A bit of toe-in gives the car some stability anyway... .
#5
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thanks for that mike!
by the way, those bayjoo springs you sold me are so much better than the previous ones i had! feels really good now so thanks again mate.
by the way, those bayjoo springs you sold me are so much better than the previous ones i had! feels really good now so thanks again mate.
#6
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Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
Unless you have a Grp A rear beam or "slot" the mounting points, the rear is not adjustable.
I was to get Zoo beam but aparently that is going to be delayed due to things happening... My rear geometry is way wrong :-/ One wheel +0,01 one -0,10
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so like on my setup - completely std dampers & springs but fully poly bushed on 18's - insist on having the front toeing in 20 minutes when static ? ( as above, - mainly for back lane raggin)
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#8
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Originally Posted by Azrael
You think this slotting is sensible?
I was to get Zoo beam but aparently that is going to be delayed due to things happening... My rear geometry is way wrong :-/ One wheel +0,01 one -0,10
I was to get Zoo beam but aparently that is going to be delayed due to things happening... My rear geometry is way wrong :-/ One wheel +0,01 one -0,10
Your settings would suggest to me that you have a bent rear beam. The standard item is not particularly strong and given your descriptions of the Polish roads, not surprising .
#9
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Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
Originally Posted by Azrael
You think this slotting is sensible?
I was to get Zoo beam but aparently that is going to be delayed due to things happening... My rear geometry is way wrong :-/ One wheel +0,01 one -0,10
I was to get Zoo beam but aparently that is going to be delayed due to things happening... My rear geometry is way wrong :-/ One wheel +0,01 one -0,10
Your settings would suggest to me that you have a bent rear beam. The standard item is not particularly strong and given your descriptions of the Polish roads, not surprising .
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cos im lazy
can someone covert 20 minutes of toe in angle to mm on teh escos wheelbase please so i can get selectatyre to do mine as soon as its all back together
can someone covert 20 minutes of toe in angle to mm on teh escos wheelbase please so i can get selectatyre to do mine as soon as its all back together
#13
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Originally Posted by Dave Henshall
cos im lazy
can someone covert 20 minutes of toe in angle to mm on the escos wheelbase please so i can get selectatyre to do mine as soon as its all back together
can someone covert 20 minutes of toe in angle to mm on the escos wheelbase please so i can get selectatyre to do mine as soon as its all back together
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oh yes - gonna get 2 new fronty tyres and have it tracked up prperly aswell
my tyre centre doesnt measure teh toe in degrees minutes and seconds, but in mm, so i need the length of teh wheelbase and then convert 20 minutes into actual mm for their laser tracker....
my tyre centre doesnt measure teh toe in degrees minutes and seconds, but in mm, so i need the length of teh wheelbase and then convert 20 minutes into actual mm for their laser tracker....
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Originally Posted by Dave Henshall
my tyre centre doesnt measure the toe in degrees minutes and seconds, but in mm, so i need the length of the wheelbase and then convert 20 minutes into actual mm for their laser tracker....
IF it;s modern laser thing I'm 99% sure it can be switched to degrees.
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Maybe Mike will disagree but what you want is only slightest of the slight toe-in. Slight toe-out will under load will help it turn but make it much more unstable. Excessive toe-is will make it hard to make it turn.
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May be a bit too much toe-out under load then. BUt this maybe some of inherent characteristics of the car. Like relatively low castror angle wich makes it a little bit nerous but much sharper.
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but if its been set dead parallel - under load, it will toe out - thus causing it to hunt and tramline, its a good point mike has made obout the deflection of teh bushes - not though of that before
#23
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Originally Posted by Mike Rainbird
Dave,
That is correct. To save me typing it all out again, m
My suspension settings are all here: https://passionford.com/forum/viewto...128432&start=0
That is correct. To save me typing it all out again, m
My suspension settings are all here: https://passionford.com/forum/viewto...128432&start=0
thanks Mike.
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Originally Posted by Dave Henshall
but if its been set dead parallel - under load, it will toe out - thus causing it to hunt and tramline, its a good point mike has made obout the deflection of the bushes - not though of that before
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bttt for mike
if i wanted it to be dead stable and not wear tyres on long motorway hauls,, what would you recommend for the toe in/out at the front end as opposed to slightly toeing in for normal fast road /back lane stuff?
if i wanted it to be dead stable and not wear tyres on long motorway hauls,, what would you recommend for the toe in/out at the front end as opposed to slightly toeing in for normal fast road /back lane stuff?
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std, its all std apart from poly bushed thoughout suspension wise
and the wear is due to one of the wheels being the wrong offset so it turns out and they ajusted the tracking (what they thought) was parallel
and the wear is due to one of the wheels being the wrong offset so it turns out and they ajusted the tracking (what they thought) was parallel
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